johnceggleston

mine started acting up a few weeks ago and i put a rubber band on it. yhis week when the rubber band broke it was working again. so i left the shift ''surround'' off so the release button was accessable. next time it acts up i'll use a zip tie. never thought of that.

under the dash near or to the right of the steering column there is a 6 pin connector, B82? maybe, hooked up to nothing. (i do remember it is a 5 pin connector but it may not have all of the pin locations populated. ground out pin #5, i think, and the AT Temp light will flash the code. for actual details search "transcodes" or maybe "readingtranscodes". do not bother reading the info about the procedure mentioning the button on the shifter. is for earlier cars which have a power? or sport? or manual? button on the shifter. i think this is what you want: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81497&highlight=readtranscodes for 99s / phase 2? auto trans apparently this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=967053#post967053

it sounds like the crank is in the corrwct position. what about the cam sprockets?

condition of the car not withstanding i would think the ej22 97 - 98 would return the most money in a buy/ swap/ sell. and those car will bend valves if the t-belt brakes so you may find one cheap. and since the engine is free, swapping will be less expensive than a valve job repair.

ok dual port. does it have a flex plate or a fly wheel?? you can use it in any ej22 90 - 94. you may have to swap the intakes if this is obd2 and the car is obd 1. or if it has a flywheel, you can use it in a 95 ej22 manual trans. intake swap if needed. or you can use it 96 - 98 ej22 manual trans car if you get a matching y-pipe. intake swap if needed. you could even put it in an outback or GT 96 - 98 but you will always have a CEL for the egr.

same size as a large deep well spark plug socket, 5/8s i think. take a breaker bar with you. EDIT: it's 22mm or 7/8 not 5/8. there are several good threads on the subject, do a search. (one this week in fact) if the timing jumped, there could be bent valves.

glad to here they are taking care of you. since i expressed some concerns earlier, i have read some more info on their site and a linked page from one of their sales. they seem to be saying and ''doing'' all the right things. i have since ordered from them again. the parts seem to be good, but i have not yet installed them. i am hopeful and re-assured by you post.

did you check the exhaust ports? that will narrow the year down and probably tell you enough to get the right car, since it is non egr. single port exhaust, one hole on the under side of the head, means it is 96 - 98. non egr means it is most likely from a manual trans car. so it will bolt into a 96 - 98 with a manual trans. dual port exhaust, two holes in the under side of the head, means 90 - 95. no egr could be either trans 90- 94 or manual trans in 95. either way, single or dual, the exhaust ports will tell you enough to get started. the 95 will be the issue. impreza was obd 1 and legacy was odb 2 and it may be hard to tell 94 from 95, so that may be hard to figure. check the exhaust ports. EDIT: or just sell it as is for $150.

the good news is that it is probably not the cats, so your retirement money should be safe. how many miles on the car? how many miles have you had it? have you ever replaced the o2 sensor, either front or rear? there is a good chance it is the front o2 sensor. it should be a subaru oem item, not after market or generic. it could also be an exhaust leak , i think. but usually it is the front o2 sensor. if the front o2 does not fix it, there is a work around. but you, the car and the environment would be happier if the front o2 was working correctly.

the torque spec is 125 - 137, IIRC. if you torque it to 140 ft. lbs. (that's what i use) you will not need the locktight. the key is not really designed to hold the pulley or the sprocket in place against the rotation of the crank. it designed to locate the sprocket in the correct timing position while torquing the bolt. the torque on the bolt is what holds it in place and keeps it from slipping. definitely replace the pulley and key, and sprocket if there is any wear on it. put something on the threads when you torque it. either anti-seize or oil or maybe threadlock. you don't want the friction on the threads or any binding to fool the torque wrench into thinking it is tight enough. the first one i did , i used thread lock, but since i didn't clean the threads in the bolt hole i doubt it really did much. but it's been over 25k miles with no problems so i guess i'm good.

there is a vin etched in to the bell housing on the passenger side kind of low. it is set in a small rectangle. the 11th character will be a letter. what is it? S = 95 T = 96 U = 97 V = 98 W = 99 check the exhaust ports on the under side of the heads. dual ports means 90 - 95, single port (with no EGR) means 96 - 98 w/ manual trans. most likely.

i am not aware of a 15" 5 x 100 subaru wheel that will NOT fit. does anyone know of one that will not work ? that means all 90 - 04 15" wheels will fit. probably thru 2011? 16" too.

do a search for ''torque bind'', and read up. if you have an auto trans, put in the FWD fuse and see if it goes away. what year model and miles car??

the FWD fuse is only for the auto trans cars. if you have torque bind, and all of your tires are a matched set , the same size and the same inflation, then your viscous coupling is shot. pretty rare for a car w/ 86k miles. are you tires all good? did you have a mis-matched set for a while? you can replace or have the viscous coupling replaced. i don't know the price (probably $500 - $600) or how difficult, i'm an A/T guy. but i know it can be done in the drive way. the part number is / maybe 38913AA101. double check at http://opposedforces.com/parts and then price it here: www.subarugenuineparts.com or call a dealer.

that's why most folks don't split the case and why most folks swap in a used 2.2L engine. it's cheaper and easier and quicker and better..... well, maybe not better.

yes there is an id tag on the passenger strut tower. one of the line is for the engine. the 2.2L is an ej22. but don't bother looking. the 2.5L engine didn't come out until 1996 so both are 2.2L.

the 215/74/15 tire is .7 inches larger in radius than outback tires. that is 1.4 inches larger in diameter. i think that is too big, but i don't know. you can run stock outback tires, they are 205/70/15. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html maybe measure how much room you have now between the strut spring perch and your tire and then check the tire calculator and see how much bigger the new tire will be. see if you have enough room. i think the rear spring perch is a common rub spot.

if he's standing on the passenger side of the car, i think the last pic is of one of the small vac lines that go over to the stuff on the passenger strut tower. the brake booster vac line is larger and on the driver side of the throttle body and the nipple faces to the rear. there are 3 lines that go in the direction of the strut tower. in older 2.2s they all went all the way, i think. in newer 2.5s they joined 2 together and only a couple go to the strut, I THINK. check the diagram. there should be a diagram on the under side of the hood. it should help with tracking this stuff down. is this the original engine? or a swap?

AWD subarus cannot be towed with 2 wheels on the ground unless you remove the drive shaft. autos trans cars should be flat bedded, all 4 wheels off the ground. manual trans cars can be done the same or with all 4 wheels on the ground with the trans in neutral. but never 2 up and 2 down with the drive shaft in place.

i don't know but someone should. if you don't get a good answer soon, check the link below and see if they have the same part number. http://opposedforces.com/parts i have to ask, what movie had the character, ''tony2toes''? was it with arnold and vanessa in ''eraser''?

i don't know anything about what it does. but i do remember reading in the FSM that part of it , the brain mabe?, is located under the passenger seat. i learned this when i swapped the ECU in my 98 outback and got a cel for the TCS. the fix included checking the resistance/ continuity on the unit under the passenger seat.

i think my haynes manual had something, how ever limited, about them. HLAs are the hydraulic valve adjusters. they use oil pressure to keep the valve adjustment correct. they are in the rocker assembly on the heads, under the valve cover. if yours are noisy, you may have low oil pressure. if this is an engine swap i would just let it idle. i've done 2 and one sounded so bad i thought it was a rod. but both quieted down over time with letting the engine run. the HLAs are pressed into place in the rocker arm, no tools needed and are easy to remove. be careful not to ''scar'' them with pliers. there is a small ''one way'' ball valve that lets oil in. if you use a tooth pick or the like to press in the ball the valve will open and oil can flow in and out. submerge the HLA in a small container of clean oil. press in the ball valve and then work the piston in and out. dirty oil will probably come out. keep working it until there is no more dirty oil. remove it from the oil bath and see if the piston is now firm. if it is soft, the hla is probably bad. there is a bolt tightening procedure for the rocker arm assembly. if bleeding these was a common need, the advice would be to do it with the engine out of the car before the swap. but usually they quiet down on their own. that's all i remember.

i'd concentrate in the area of the broken/ replaced evap solenoid. that's where the damage was, that is where the solution will be, hopefully. how do you know the replaced part was good? check the hoses in that area and any wire connections. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0441 i'll ask only because it happened to me when i did it, i know you didn't but, did you replace the ECU?

the air bag is a non-issue if you dis-connect the battery a few minutes before you start. i didn't and i had no trouble, but if you are worried, dis-connect. i did mine a few months ago. i got good advice, like loosening the nut holding the steering wheel on but do not remove it until the steering wheel is loose. you have to pull up on it pretty hard to remove it. if the nut is off, it can fly up in to your face. i used a puller i have but most folks say you don't really need one. the only other thing i remember is keep everything centered while it is apart. and keep the 'new' clock spring centered before you install it.

off topic is different. is that where you posted before?