johnceggleston

the switch sounds like a pretty god approach except, if the duty c fails when hot, and you flip the FWD switch, nothing will happen. if the duty c has failed it ''can't'' work. if the binding is caused by something other than a ''hot'' duty c then it should work. when adding the switch, you don't have to go all the way under the hood. you can ground out pin #2 on the 20 pin connector on the TCU. less wiring, but more contortions, maybe, working under the dash.

valve adjustment is due every 105k same as the timing belt. i'd get a cheap, 5$ @ harbor freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html ), mechanics stethoscope and try and isolate the noise. the t-belt tensioner can make noise when it's failing, but it's on the driver side. valve adjustment is a pain.

i cured this by buying a new / different remote and programming it to my alarm system. problem solved.

15s are stock on the late 90s outbacks. 14 are stock on the 90s lagacys. the 15s will fit.

fluids plugs and wires, as well as filters. if it leaks oil, most do, seals would be good. and timing belt if it is due, every 60k. it is a non-interference engine so no harm if the belt fails. i'm not a manual trans guy, but some folks have changed the oil with some special red? stuff. i don't know the stuff but some one will. it may help, can't hurt. but you may find you can drive carefully and reduce the ''grind''.

if i were keeping the car i'd live with it, but since i'm selling it i'll at least take a look. i'm hoping it is at the front end. the first time i pulled it, it opened but now it won't relatch. i have removed the ''spring'' so the door closes, but i'm using a popsicle stick to open it. not the best for a good sale price. thanks for the help, i thought it might go under the car.

not unless you swap the rear differential as well as the trans. F.D. is the final drive ratio. 3.9::1 vs 4.11:1

does any one know the routing or procedure for removing the fuel door release cable. mine has quit working and i need to replace it. i think it is rusted, but i'm not sure where to look for it. except at each end of course. i guess re-greasing it may fix it but i still need some help. any one dealt with this before?? thanks

the rear o2 sensor can be generic buy the cheaper one. but it does not make sense to me that the rear sensor failure would cause the p0136 code on the front sensor. but if the rear is busted it should be replaced.

when in park, if both wheels turn you probably hear a loud clack as the the parking pawl snaps out of one slot and into the next. it is a very noticeable sound when traveling at slow speeds. i've done it. if the pawl did not slip then there was probably more damage done to the tire rubber than the trans. the rear wheels are not engaged when the engine is off, there is no fluid pressure to engage the transfer clutch. so they will spin freely. no damage there from a 20 foot drag.

good deal, 900$ profit in a week?

hank, i went back through the posts after you brought this up and you are right. he never said ej25 or outback and we all assumed that ''over heating'' meant bad head gasket on an ej25. it looks like we just lucked out. or maybe ''over heating'' does mean the same as EJ25. keep up the good work keeping us straight.

ok, we have a winner, maybe. the most common cause of the speedo not working in the 90 - 94 is a bad/ busted speedo cable. this should also cause a CEL, check engine light. (at least it would in an OBD2 car. time to visit a salvage yard.? for a used cable. i don't remember the workings of the tach. fix the speedo first.

if your car looks like the one in the link picture and it is over heating it is an ej25, i bet. of course there is always the possibility that some one else swapped in an ej22 but then it wouldn't over heat. by the way, the sus pictured is my favorite car from the 90s. if that is what you are buying i am envious. so my response to your ''is it worth it?'' YES, EVERY PENNY!!!

i copied this from another thread. more to be found by searching ''ej22 swap''. this info applies to 95 - 99 cars. the 95 2.2L engine from an auto trans car is a straight swap into a 96 - 99 2.5L outback, GT or LSi. i've done two of them. the reason you need an auto trans car as a donor is because all the 2.5L engines here, in the US, have an EGR system. preference of donor engines for a 2.5L car. 1. 95 ej22 w/ auto trans - straight swap, use the flex plate / flywheel that came with the 2.5L trans, non-interference engine. 2. 96 ej22 w/ auto trans - use exhaust y-pipe from the 2.2L car and flex / flywheel from the 2.5L car, non-interference engine. 3. 97 - 98 ej22 w/ auto trans - use exhaust y-pipe from the 2.2L car and flex / flywheel from the 2.5L car, interference engine.

and any one who says you need a computer swap does not know 90s subarus.

it would probably be cheaper to sell it to a friend in another state for cheap, register it there, and then buy it back for cheap. you wouldn't even have to move the car or the money for that matter. just do everything through the mail.

i did this on a 95 lego. i bought a generic part from the parts store and spliced it in. it cost <$5. i don't know if '02s are different.

what car? typically in the late 90s there is one o2 before the cats and one after.

search ''trannychart'' . and let us know what you end up doing.

FACT: ej25 head gaskets from online OEM dealers, is $76 or less. ej22 head gaskets would be much less. do not confuse your local dealer prices with online dealer prices. be careful what you buy. i bought a head gasket kit for 36$ om line. i only needed the seals. i still regret the purchase. but in the long run it is your money and your decision. and the most difficult thing in the world is to change a convinced individuals mind. good luck. i suggest you stick with a known name when buying gaskets and seals.

i'm not 100% sure, but the OEM only is for the 2.5L engine. the ej22, which you have, is not as sensitive, i don't think. having said that i have bought some off brand seals, cam and crank, and i am not happy with the quality. if you do some research about online subaru parts and compare them to quality local parts store parts, napa and felpro maybe, i think you will find the the price on the head gaskets is not a make or break point on the parts. in other words, felpro will probably do fine on the ej22 but i doubt you will save 50% compared to oem online prices. check around. www.subarugenuineparts.com www.subarupartsforyou.com as for seals, cheaper is not better. i would stick with quality parts. i bought a cheap set and have leaks within two years. i have to re-do some.

well first, it is impossible to have torque bind and FWD only, at the same time. unless you actually have a rear diff problem or dragging brakes or bad drive shaft or ..... something. i think a rear diff problem would make noise. the statement in red above means that the mechanical parts are all in place and working. you have 4wd locked when you unplug the trans wiring harness. so now the question, is the TCU working properly? the pages below (thanks eulogious) show the pin out on the TCU and how to test each pin for proper function. give it a read and test the pins for the duty c, FWD fuse and any other related stuff. hopefully you will find the problem. EDIT: if one of your speed sensors is bad that could cause FWD only, but if the front one was bad the speedo wouldn't work. if the connection between the speedo and the computer is bad that could be a cause. if the computer, TCU, does not ''see'' both sensors, it will default to FWD. my personal opinion is that your AWD is working properly, but i'm not driving the car and can not feel what it is doing. another thing you may try if you haven't already. drive it on the hiway with the fuse in and FWD lit. you should be able to ''feel'' the difference in how it drives. (dry pavement.) have you tried spinning the rear tires on ice with the fuse out and the gear selector in 1? i'm sure you must have but don't remember all of this thread and i thought i'd ask. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=996223&postcount=8

you don't want to do a ''flush'' unless you absolutely have to. there is a chance the ''flushing'' will move some dirt around and get it stuck in places it should not be. a ''drain and fill'' 3 times will not run that risk. and i wouldn't take my car to aamco if it was broken down on the street in front of the shop. IMO they offer that 50$ deal because they know they will get some rebuilds out of it. part of the process is to remove the pan and show it to you. ''look at all that dirt and metal in there, you better fix this now.'' i would take it to a local shop with the trans fluid and tell them what you want. a drain and fill, three times. after each fill start the car and shift it through all of the gears. you don'y have to drive it. then shut it off and drain and fill again.

i don't know 90 - 94 very well. any chance this car has a turbo?