johnceggleston

90 lego w/ 112k miles sale price ===== $ 00 timing kit ===== $180? head gaskets == $ 75? machine shop == $145? seals ======== $ 50? total cost ===== $450 drive it 50k miles and sell it for 500$. or drive 100k miles and sell it for 500$. works for me. it sure sounds like head gaskets but it is hard to imagine how that could happen to a ''old lady'' car w/ 112k, rarely driven. i'd check it out really well before i pulled the heads.

well first, it is an amazingly hardy and robust engine. if you were designing one in the 80s for longevity and easy to work on. not needing a lot of repairs and reliability with timing belt changes every 60k, then this would be the engine. it's not picky, it does not break, it will run forever, and it is easy to work on. the chances of pulling one from a wreck and getting a bad one do exist but from experience the risk is low. both engines i have installed have come from wrecks and both were noisy when first started. but both have turned out to be smooth running reliable engines. i sometimes think that the ej22 is the perfect engine for the austrailian outback, especially if it was tied to a dual range trans. hey, that might make a great commercial.

for $2700 you can buy a good running 95 complete car w/ 160k miles, pull the engine , reseal it and have it installed. throw the rest of the car away. 1500 - car (high) 1000 - labor (high) 700 - parts (high) 2700 - total (high)

legacy used the phase 2 ej22 in 99 and 00. you won't find any from 01 i don't believe. impreza used the engine in 01. IF the impreza used it in 99 (i'm pretty sure they did, but i don't remember) then all 3 years are the same for both cars. you should be good.

i would look at the head gaskets hard before you spend any more time on the heater hoses. you likely will be wasting your time and maybe money on the heater.

for me it would depend on the year of the 2.2L engine and what my time is worth. if it is a 95 - 96 non-interference engine you can take a chance. especialy if you don't mind opening it up again in 20k miles. (i don't want to do that so i replace all.) but on an interference engine the risk is just too great, in my opinion. but if you have more time than money , now, maybe put it together and drive it for a few months until you have more bucks. everyone always says replace all, it's just a few more $$, do the seals, it's just a few more $$, but those few more $$ add up and can double the price of the replacement engine. but still, i replace all. that way if it i sell it i don't worry about the next guy. better karma that way. i have removed 2 2.5L engine and installed 2 2.2L engines with all new timing components. and in all four i have not found a complete set of used idlers i would reuse. one or two, but not a set. and it is almost cheaper to buy the kit off ebay than to buy one idler from a local parts store.

the hard points on the inside of the roof should be there already. you just need the rails, bolts and cross bars from a yard.the bad news is you have to get behind the head liner to mount it. maybe pick one of those as well if it is in good condition.

the telltale signs of bad head gaskets are bubbles in the overflow when running hot, and black gunk in the overflow. that along with the ''no heat'' are classic signs. but considering the fairly rear failure rate of the head gaskets in the 2.2L engines, i would replace the radiator cap, t-stat, (if you have not yet) and refill the coolant properly. it may not help, but with a low mileage engine it will not be wasted since you, or someone, will re-do the head gaskets and have a great engine for 150k miles. you should also do the timing belt, all idlers, and water pump, as well all the seals, oil pump, and cams. the only down side to all of this is the that resale value is not very high. so you will have to drive it to get your money out of it. the car is not worthless but it has a limited value. but fix it and drive it for 50k - 70k miles and you will be glad you did.

read this and then comment / ask: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=911632&highlight=badheadgasket*#post911632

the crank shaft is not affected, turned, wiggled, by the movement of the wheels when the car is in gear and parked on a truck with an automatic trans. but it does happen with a 5 speed. rock the car back and forth the crank will wiggle.

if you can create a signature , i can, i assume others can, you can list your car details in that. along with any other info you want us to know.

if i were on the road, i would probably buy the kit and fix the broken parts on the road. drive it home and then do everything, seals included,the right way. you probably have a bad idler maybe a bad water pump, buy the ebay kit and read up on the job. maybe print out some of the better descriptions and have at it. the challenge will be if you get out there and don't have a tool you need. drive it home and then go back and do it right.

thanks for the feed back. i don't own a 99 so i have not had to make the repair. glad it works.

when you firsty insert the screw driver, it will hit the flex plate and stop, unless it happens to slip into one of the 12 openings in it, 4 holes, 4 small rectangular and 4 larger rectangular openings. rotate the crank with your breaker bar untill you feel an opening with the screw driver. when you feel one slip the screw driver in more. once in place you can let go. torque away. use a torque wrench. 125 ft lbs, minimum, to 140 ft lbs. more is better.

the flex plate bolts usually. there isn't a lot of room in there and there are 4 flex plate to torque converter bolts. the screw driver should catch on the bolt or the contours of the flex plate at the bolt. the ej22 flex plate has a smaller diameter than the ej25 but you should still be able to find a ''catch''. any catch will do. see below and find a ''catch''. this pic even shows a screwdriver in the hole. (thanks, google images)

from the top, but the plastic air intake may need to be moved. first find the hole. then slip in a screw driver. if you put your breaker bar on the crank bolt you should be able to rotate the engine with your right hand and work the screw driver with your left. (when on the passenger side.) when you feel it catch, work it in until you lock it up. again, bigger is better on the screw driver. check it out and get back.

NO. the hole i'm talking about is on the engine bell housing at the rear of the engine where it meets the trans. either side of the engine , half way down in the 9 oclock or the 3 oclock position. slip in the screw driver and rotate the engine with your breaker bar untill you feel the screw driver catch. 90 degrees or less should do it. once it catches you can then work on the crank bolt. ideally you should use a fatter rather than thinner screw driver. you don't want it to bend.

yes, they look like this on the head. 3 1 5 6 2 4 it does not matter which end , 3 or 5 is the front. start in the middle and then the corners.

70 - 80 lbs at 16" is equal to ~90 - 100 ft lbs. but since your 70 -80 is just a guess is does not mean much. to hold the crank, there is hole in the bell housing on each side half way down, that will fit a bolt or a screw driver. slip it in and use it to lock the flex plate in place. then you can torque away. borrow a torque wrench, you will be much happier if you are sure.

if the pic isn't clear enough, put the crank sprocket key way in the 6 oclock position. i had this and another pic of the ej25 timing marks in my signature for a day, but i decided it was too much for every post.

where are you getting your trouble code definitions? p1104 is for torque control, a circuit problem i think. it has nothing to do with the tps. adjusting the screw on the throttle body can screw up how the cart runs. put it back the way it was and leave it alone. if it was right in the other car it will be right in this car. here's a link to a 97 FSM it has the codes and procedures for sorting them out. it may take some time to hunt and find the section you want. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/ p0441 is an evap purge fault problem. the link i gave you had possible causes and solutions lower on the page. (see below) not subaru specific, i don't think but good enough to start sorting it out. the part that made sense to me was ''faulty purge solenoid'' or ''Corrosion or resistance in purge connector'' the previous owner on my car backed into the ocean unloading at a boat ramp. salt water equals corrosion. i guess it could also be a canister full of salt water? how did your ECU get wet, corroded? i have the time for a long story. Causes A code P0441 could mean one or more of the following has happened: Bad vacuum switch Broken or damaged EVAP line or canister Open in PCM purge command circuit Open or short in Voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid Faulty purge solenoid Restriction in EVAP solenoid, line or canister Corrosion or resistance in purge connector Bad PCM Possible Solutions With a P0441 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try: Common Chrysler fix - Replace Leak Detection Pump / LDP Repair damaged EVAP lines or canister Repair open or short in voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid Repair open in PCM purge command circuit Replace purge Solenoid Replace vacuum switch Repair restriction in Evap line or canister or soleniod Repair resistance in purge connector Replace PCM

99 speedos have a known problem. there is a thread i stared with a fix. i found it on another board. it is apparently a circuit ground problem on the circuit board. there are pics in the thread, or at least links to pics, for the fix. in a thread just last week there was a solution for a non-working speedo of another year. in that case it was the screws mounting the speedo to the cluster circuit board. loose screws meant no speedo. but for 99 it is on the speedo circuit board and a wire has to be added. and 99 is slightly different than earlier years and you can't just swap it out with a 98. (something about 3 wires vs. 2 wires but i have not confirmed that.) advanced search ''speedofix'' or ''99speedofix'' posted by me. if you use this fix and it works, please post back here or on the speedofix thread and let us know.

if the exhaust has a leak under heavy acceleration i would check the donut gasket just to the rear of the trans where the cat meets the mid-pipe. it is usually a spring loaded joint and heavy acceleration can be more pressure than the seal can handle. but , that is not right rear, it is very much center center of the car.

the 96 outback had taller struts, larger tires and bigger front calipers. the 95s were a legacy with outback paint / trim. but the question is did the 95 have the lego calipers or the 96 outback calipers. probably the lego but who knows? but since you have both wheels, try one on the front. if it works, the rears will be good.

80 ft lbs is not enough. you need 125 minimum.