johnceggleston

i found this. but for the cost i'd reconsider new. http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Mounts%2C+Engine&year=1999

foresters 99 - 03 w/ the SOHC ej25 have the potential for external head gasket leaks. but the frequency is much less than the 96 - 99 DOHC ej25 gasket problem. and the leak is much less of a problem. you may be able to ''avoid'' the leak with the subaru coolant conditioner and or even live with it for a long time by just keeping the coolant topped off. lots of threads with info about this. but for your mother you may want one that is in good working order. so either buy one cheap with bad gaskets and make the repairs or look for one that has been repaired or look for one a little newer, 05 maybe.

from my personal observations, the production year for the new model year started ''around'' june of the calendar year. this obviously is very loosey goosey with lots of room for error. but generally speaking it is close. some websites use production dates only, like http://opposedforces.com/parts. others use model year, like http://www.car-part.com, unless they list a production date. but the vin seems to be the definitive, assuming you have the data base to search , like a subaru dealer has. the vin needs to be absolute. my guess is that there is a talley sheet that follows each car through the production line which includes all of the part numbers installed on that car. or at least the numbers for the ''components'' installed on that car. so if there was a 98 auto trans left over and installed in a 99 MY car, it would be documented on the talley sheet and it would fudge the change date. perfectly clear , right ????

i don't think this works for obd2 cars. only 90 - 94 cars.

[quote=1-3-2-4;989145 So I popped it back in the car and sure enough I turn the car to "ON" and I hear the pump prime the line and the car starts... Well I ordered a new Bosch pump better to be safe then sorry. some one else had a thread that came down to an intermittent fuel pump. glad you figured it out. seems like you focused in on ti right away. congrats.

he started here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/phase1-2-ej22-mixin-and-mingling-153650.html?t=153650 and then moved to here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/general-engine-build-advice-153946.html?t=153946 i don't know squat about turbo stuff so i can't really comment. he may have another , older thread that is related as well.

as i understand it the blocks are dumb. so unless a block/ head combination would cause piston to valve interference i don't see why it would not work. but rumor has it you will have low compression. too low?? there's a kid? over on legacygt.com who is asking similar questions but all phase 1 stuff. ej25 heads on an ej22 block. he wants to boost it. i keep wanting to tell him he has more money than experience but ... what can you do , kids today!?!?

found this list of codes. Code Item 11 Duty solenoid A 12 Duty solenoid B 13 Shift solenoid 3 14 Shift solenoid 2 15 Shift solenoid 1 21 ATF temp sensor 22 Atmospheric sensor 23 Engine revolution signal 24 Duty solenoid C 25 Engine torque control signal 31 Throttle sensor 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2 for the odb2 cars the grounding of pin #5 on connector b82 is required to read the codes. but having never done it i don't know if this is instead of or in addition to the "handshake". i assumed it was instead of but i don't know. any one know for sure?

the 16 flashes indicates there was an electrical fault in the trans the last time you drove the car. reading the code is the correct thing to do. you may have to do it before you turn the car off when the AT TEMP light was flashing, i don't know. link below has good info for how to read codes and a link to more info in a different thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115865&highlight=read*+trans*code*+connector Trouble Codes - obd2 Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU. given your symptoms i would guess you have a failed solenoid in the trans, maybe more than one. something is wrong. if you still have trouble you can always take it to a dealer or subaru shop for help. below is a link to a page with field service manuals you can download. the 97 is easier to search / read than the 99, it has better labels. there should be a section on trans troubleshooting or something similar. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

then keep oil on hand and check it often.

honestly , i don't know. but i have drilled into my brain that only 95 - 99 auto ej22 had EGR i assumed the 90 - 94 did not. id they did , then they would be a good candidate for an je25 swap as long as you had an ej22 intake / harness from 95 - 99. i do know that the ej18s all had egr, so i guess the early ej22 could have had them as well. but again, double check.

the 93 ej22 will bolt in and run fine if you swap the intake and therefore the wiring harness. the one exception is that the 95 auto has an EGR valve and the 93 does not. you will have to ''drill and tap'' the head to make it work. if you do not ''make the repair'' for the egr you will have a CEL all the time. not an issue for a 95 since they are not required to meet the OBD2 specs, but it will have a CEL on the dash. the trans will bolt in and work, BUT the final drive ratio may be different so it may not match your existing rear diff. but if your current trans still works you don't really need to swap, do you? if you go to legacycentral.org and look for the sticky that covers diff ratios you will learn what you need. i think they may be the same but i'm not sure. 90 -91 are different from 92 -94 but the same as 95 - 99, non turbo, i think. double check. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148

it does sound like it is missing. i forget how, but i would read the codes. does it have a CEL? is there black gunk in the radiator overflow? ej22 don't blow head gaskets very often, but it can happen and the cost of parts plus your time will eat in to your profit if selling it. any internal engine problems will. but timing and tune up will probably put it back on the road. but as you say, there will be other stuff, axles?, tires?, clutch? but 300$ is cheap. good luck.

below are some partial vin# from some subarus and an explanation of each positions meaning, 95 - 99. notice that the 5th character changes depending on the model. i assume there is something similar for later model cars. i don't remember where i pull this from and i was never clear on the ''engine'' indicator but it may be helpful when looking at an ''outback'' that is all one color. (by the way, i don't think subaru offer any legacy / impreza in ''all gray'' in 96. check www.cars101.com for more color info.) 4S3B D6358 S72xxxxx = 95 LEGACY L SEDAN 4S3B K4357 T73xxxxx = 96 LEGACY L WAGON 4S3B K6756 V76xxxxx = 97 LEGACY 2.5 GT 4S3B G6854 V76xxxxx = 97 OUTBACK LTD 4S3B G6854 V76xxxxx = 97 OUTBACK Position ...............description 1-3.......................4S3 = MANUFACTURING PLANT / COUNTRY 4............................B = LEGACY, G = IMPREZA, S = FORESTER 5...........................G = OUTBACK WAGON, K LEGACY WAGON, D or E = LEGACY SEDAN 6..........................4 = 2.2L ENGINE, 6 = 2.2 or 2.5L ENGINE (year sensitive), 2 = 1.8L FWD, 3 = 3.0L 7..........................8 = OUTBACK, 3 = L, 5 = LS, 6 = LSi, 7 = GT, 9 = POSTAL, 1 = BASE, 2 = BRIGHTON 8.........................5 = MAN BELTS & DUAL FRONT AIR BAGS, 2 = AUTO BELTS, 6 or C = SIDE BAGS 9.........................CHECK DIGIT 10........................MODEL YEAR: S=95, T=96, V=97, W=98, X=99 11.......................7 = AWD / US 4EAT, 6 = AWD / US 5MT, C = FWD / JAP 4EAT, G = AWD / 5MT JAP 12-17................Sequential production number

any chance this was part of subarus thinking which led to the re-design? any chance that the ''slapping'' / knocking sound that some make just prior to failure was designed into the unit to help prevent or at least indicate imminent failure?

i'm not sure which tensioner you have . hard to tell form your description. the old style is a 2 piece unit, the pulley on a cam lobe type of thing and a small hydraulic piston about 4" long. the new style is a one piece unit with the pulley and piston built into one, sort of. in theory, 98 was the new style and 97 was the old style, but the actual change date may have been slightly before or after the actual model year change date. the old style is generally accepted to be longer lasting, the pulley should be changed at every interval but the piston does not need to be changed unless it leaks or it will not perform. the new should be changed at every t-belt interval. search for ''subaru timing belt kits'' on ebay by ''theimportexperts''. they have good t-belt kits for a good price which lots of folks here recommend. you can see the two different types.

www.subarupartsforyou.com www.subarugenuineparts.com find the part number at: http://opposedforces.com/parts if you do a search you may find the part number on our site.

the 95 2.2L engine from an auto trans car is a straight swap into a 96 - 99 2.5L outback, GT or LSi. i've done two of them. the reason you need an auto trans car as a donor is because all the 2.5L engines here have an EGR system. preference of donor engines for a 2.5L car. 1. 95 ej22 w/ auto trans - straight swap, use the flex plate / flywheel that came with the 2.5L trans, non-interference engine. 2. 96 ej22 w/ auto trans - use exhaust y-pipe from the 2.2L car and flex / flywheel from the 2.5L car, non-interference engine. 3. 97 - 98 ej22 w/ auto trans - use exhaust y-pipe from the 2.2L car and flex / flywheel from the 2.5L car, interference engine.

www.cars101.com

there is no reason to think that it would be NON-interference. given the need for power and emissions demands i would think that they would squeeze everything possible out of an engine design. i really don't know how far valves extend out of the block or what it would do the power production of the engine to shorten the stroke enough to avoid the engine. but i assume that there is horsepower in that last little bit. but again, i don't really know.

i removed GR2s from my GT because of the ride. i felt like i was driving a truck. i probably would not have done it if i had not wanted to put on outback struts (used). i don't know what i'll buy when these go.

i can't speak to the piston slap, i just don't know the details of the fix and how successful it is. but as long as the engine hasn't been severely overheated new gaskets would put it back on the road for a good while.

have you checked with the online dealers? www.subarugenuineparts.com jamie should be able to get you the parts you need if you give her the VIN. www.subarupartsforyou.com you may be able to find part numbers at: http://opposedforces.com/parts but, not many people go to the trouble and expense to do a total rebuild from the bearings up when a good used engine can be bought, refurbished with new seals and gaskets and installed for under $1200.

you don't have to do that. our subarus, 90 - 09? have drain plugs on the trans oil pan. drains about 3.5 - 4 qts each time.do it with every engine oil change and you never have old trans fluid. do a search.

mine did this a time or two when it was very humid, foggy, rainy, etc. to help find the cause, use a water spray mister and spray all around the engine at night while the car is running. if you have bad wires or a bad coil you should see 'arcing' or blue lights sparking. it's kind of cool. i don't know what you would see if it is your knock sensor.