johnceggleston

does it happen to both sides at the same time. ? when you park the car at night, does it lean to one side? try parking backwards and see if it happens on the other side. the car is designed to ''shed'' water both when sitting and when driving. and the weather seals are recessed at little so water can get in until it hits the seal. if you park it on a lean the water may not run the way it is supposed to and freeze and build up on the seal. thaw it out, clean the area and spray it with some silicone spray? maybe. i have an old pick up with a cap and sometimes if i park it funny water gets in. park it differently , no water.

careful with the press, you can bend the knuckle if you apply too much pressure. i had good luck with a puller and an impact wrench. the hammering seemed to help. on my first one i stripped a cheap loaner puller and had to take it to a shop. they used a BIG puller and it came out.

updated links: Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48091 Timing belt info, especially useful to those who might not have done it before: Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf 2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt: http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf EDIT: Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187

thanks, i'll look. ps: new signature. too much??

if you do a search you will find lots of info. but basically you want to use subaru only for the HGs and seals and reuse the head bolts. 2 online dealers: www.subarugenuineparts.com http://subarupartsforyou.com/ basically you want to replace anything that is leaking, which includes: cam seals - 4 ea. front crank seal - 1 ea. oil pump o-ring - 1 ea. (check / tighten the bolts on the backing plate on the back side of the pump.) oil separator plate - 1 ea. w/ 5 screws. (on the rear of the engine) head gaskets - 2 ea. intake caskets - 2 ea. exhaust gaskets - 2 ea. all timing components timing belt - 1 ea. idlers, smooth - 2 ea. idler, toothed - 1 ea. tensioner pulley - 1 ea. (either just the idler assembly or the whole thing depending on whether yours is the old style, 2 piece, or the new style, one piece.) timining belt kits can be had for a good price on ebay from ''theimportexperts'', good parts fr a good price. (the stuff in red from a SUBARU dealer online.) .) i'm pretty sure i'm forgetting something but i can't think of it. EDIT: Valve cover gaskets 2 ea. heads should be sent to the machine shop and resurfaced and the valves checked to make sure they are sealing tight. typically a valve job is not required. the valves should be adjusted. (they are / were due every 105K miles.) this a a pain to do on some engines (buckets and shims) and the parts have to come from subaru, but there is a recent thread where it was not done and ended up with a burnt valve not too long after. you will also need RTV ultra gray or anaerobic sealant to reseal the oil pump and the oil separator plate on the rear. motor oil - 4.5 qts ? coolant - 6.5 qts. ? AT fluid for the power steering - 1 qt ? (and i would do a drain and fill the trans if it is an auto, about 4 qts. it holds ~10 but only drains ~4 or less.) do not replace the rear main seal unless it is really leaking, they usually don't leak until someone has replaced it. and if you do not do the oil pump and rear oil sep plate you will regret both. are you pulling the engine or doing it in the car? (you can't do the oil sep plate on the rear if you don't pull the engine.any oil leaking on the rear of the engine is coming from the oil sep plate, not the rear main seal.) (by the way, there has been more than one backyard mechanic that has torqued the head bolts to 132 ft lbs because they mis-read the haynes manual where it said 132 INCH lbs, which is 11 ft lbs.) to everyone else, is the info below accurate, torque to 51 and back off 180* twice? just comfirming there isn't a mis-print. from the 1997 FSM (section 2-3b, page 45). E: INSTALLATION 1. CYLINDER HEAD (1) Install cylinder head and gaskets on cylinder block. CAUTION: Use new cylinder head gaskets. 2) Tighten cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N⋅m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in numerical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N⋅m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in numerical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts 1 and 2 to 34 N⋅m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ftlb). (5) Tighten bolts 3 , 4 , 5 and 6 to 15 N⋅m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in numerical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in numerical sequence. CAUTION: Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [steps (6) and (7) above] do not exceed 180°.

i had a 95 that did this. i drove it for about 6 months like that. you learn to park smart. mine would actually catch in reverse occasionally but i could never count on it. it is only a matter of time before it affects a forward gear. start looking for a used trans, or wrecked car with a good trans or a good car with a bad engine. http://www.car-part.com sort your search by distance, shipping is expensive. good luck,

maf sensor unplugged? vac hoses all in place. 1 & 3 are both on the passenger side. maybe you left something dis-connected.

2.2L heads on a 2.5L block.

the user's manual shows the following about the seat heater fuse. can any one help me locate it? it shows a pic of a 3 fuse panel w #22, #23, & #24. Fuse panel behind the instrument panel lower cover Fuse panel .................Fuse rating .......................................Circuit 22 .............................15A*1 or............................... Accessory power socket ..................................20A*2................................... Seat heater 23 .............................Empty 24 .............................Empty *1: For vehicle with either accessory power socket (in luggage compartment) or seat heater *2: For vehicle with both seat heater and accessory power socket.

it could be corrosion under between the sensor and the block, so checking for that and cracks in the unit itself isn't a bad idea. cracks is a common failure mode. but it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a replacement on hand just in case. they are kind of a pain to install, hard to reach, and challenging to get the bolt in without dropping it. make sure you note the position of the sensor and wire before you pulling, apparently it makes a difference . it is a simple device, any replacement from a decent manufacturer should be ok. no need for it to be a subaru part.

if you start comparing prices you will soon see that a 96 - 99 outback sells for more than the 96 - 99 legacy, with the same miles / condition. there are differences that justify the price, bigger engine, paint, more ground clearance, alloy wheels maybe, but the basic cars are very very similar. so if price is a limiting factor, buy a legacy, and save a few bucks. you can swap in outback struts, wheels, tires and if you want to spend the money even the paint. (but at this point an outback purchase would probably been cheaper in the long run.) legacys come with almost all the same options so you won't miss much there and you benefit from the 2.2L engine, fewer HG problems. and it has all the same space inside. and these engines seem to run 300k if you keep oil in them, 200k at least. if you plan on towing a fair amount you will want an auto trans. it's easier and smoother on the road. having said all of that , once you make the decision to buy a 2.2L car, you should not rule out 90 - 94 simply on age. they made good cars in those years and some think they are better than 95 - 99. same engine and for the most part the same options and space. i would think in your area rust would be an issue. there are lots of cars that get sold in the NE with rust at the rear wheels. that would be a deal breaker for me, but i really don't know your market or what is available. but generally speaking the less rust the better. good luck, and let us know what you finally end up buying.

depending on what is causing the failure, the others will probably go eventually.

this reminds me of ''you may be a subaru owner if'' ... you buy a parts car and 6 months later you are still driving it because it is better than your daily driver. i thought you bought it for the engine, has that changed since the trans is no good. take two and make one, i know your pain. to make it work, one of them has to go. or you need to find a wrecked car with good engine and trans. good luck,

ok, couple of questions. when did the HGs give up, both times, mileage? and did you use Subaru gaskets both times? thanks,

ok, no valve damage on a 96 impreza, 1.8L or 2.2L are both non-interference engines. the shop who did the work probably timed it wrong used the wrong timing marks, which caused it to run poorly. easy to do for first timers. too bad all of the money went to waste. hopefully someone will know a shop in bellingham, where is that anyway?

there are some issues that will throw both an ECU CHECK ENGINE and a TCU flashing AT TEMP light.code. i'm not sure what they are but some will. i got both when i tried to start my car with the maf unplugged. TPS maybe or IAC? idk.

did you see this one? not sure it is a 5 speed though. http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/2155653932.html 1996 Subaru Outback AWD - $2100 (Nottoway, VA) Date: 2011-01-11, 6:25PM EST Reply to: sale-9amzr-2155653932@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] I have a 1996 Subaru Outback AWD in nice shape with only 119,000 miles on it with a clear title. The engine does not smoke at all and the transmission shifts nice. It has hot heat and cold A/C. The interior is in excellent condition for being 15 years old. There is NO RUST at all on this vehicle. It only needs a few things to pass inspection but is drivable like it is.... tires, rear wiper blade, tie rod end and a fog light bulb. As far as cosmetics are concerned.... dent in the passenger rear door which most or all of it will pop right out, small paint chip missing from driver rear door, a couple small scuffs on the bumper and a few scratches. The check engine light is on but it runs great, starts everytime and does not overheat. If I can not sell or trade within the next few days, I will just keep it until winter is over. Kelly Blue Book has it listed with "private Party Selling" at FAIR condition for $3,160.00 So, at my price, I think you are getting a great deal! You can email me through Craigslist or TEXT me at 434-294-5269 for further information. I WILL TRADE IT FOR A BIG 4X4 TRUCK (extended cab or 4 door), BIG 4X4 SUV OR A NICE V8 MUSTANG 5 SPEED. LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE!!! http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/subaru/legacy/1996/private-party-value/pricing-report?condition=fair&id=9698&category=wagon&equipment=355409%7ctrue&mileage=119500 Location: Nottoway, VA it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

there always seem to be some ej25s 96 - 99 with HGs going bad. at least as long as i've been here. some went a 60k and some are now going with 180k - 220k miles. my fear is that they all will go bad sooner or later. but until you drive one to the bitter end without replacing them how can you tell. and is 250k the end? or 300k? how about 450k? if they are original, the chances are they will fail, in my opinion, but i don't really know. if they have been replaced there is a better chance they will not fail again. just my opinion.

regarding my 98, here is the description. Summary: Subaru of America, Inc. has determined that your Subaru may experience reduced braking efficiency in extremely cold outside temperatures (approximately 20 degrees below zero Fahrenheit and colder.) In extremely cold ambient temperatures, your brake pedal may have increased pedal travel and reduced braking efficiency. This could result in additional stopping distances, which can result in an accident. Please contact your Subaru dealer and schedule a service appointment to replace the brake master cylinder unit on your vehicle. This repair will be performed at no charge to you. We regret any inconvenience this may cause, but we have taken this action in the interest of your safety and your continued satisfaction with your Subaru. not exactly what we have been talking about.

i just registered my lateset car with 'mysubaru.com' and below is what popped up under recalls, master cylinder. has any one else dealt with this? WXQ74 - Open Master Cylinder Failure in Cold Condition there happen to several open recalls for this car. the previous owner didn't go to the dealer very often.

i wouldn't let the lack of cruise hold you back. i'm pretty sure you can have the dealer add it to any subaru from the 90s. of course it would be way easier and probably cheaper if it came on the car. but if you find a car you like and it's a deal you can always add it. good luck.

what's the air temp when this happens? had the car been sitting cold for a while? does / did it happen when she first started the car? on extremely cold days there is a condition that keeps the brakes from working. i'm not sure of the cause or the fix, but it happens to me every now and then. after just a minute it the brakes work fine.

good to know the details about anaerobic sealant. but i wonder about ''Any squeeze out will never harden and can not clog any oil passages.'' even though it does not harden, does that guarantee that a soft blob won't squeeze out, break loose and flow to a small oil channel? just a thought. still don't want to use more than is needed.

the filter is a screen, not a filter in the true sense of the word. i don't know about other auto trans, they may have a filer and need to have a magnet cleaned. but subarus do not. there is no filter, just a fine screen. and if the metal is on the magnet then it is not circulating with the fluid. and apparently ALL auto trans have metal in the pan. it is one of the things the trans shop shows the owner to SELL them on a rebuild. do the drain a re-fill several times. if it does not help you can always open up then. usually id they start to slip they are dead. but some times a fluid change will help. and a fluid change is always the place to start. if it helps , great. but there is no great advantage to ''dropping the pan''. but suit your self.

oops