johnceggleston

look here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0441

runs fine with or without the ground. i haven't addressed either one yet. my current thinking is that the evap is the solenoid or whatever it is next to the canister in the back and the torque control is either a bad wire connection, corrosion maybe, or a difference in the wire harness/ ECU. did you try and run the engine on the 97 ECU?

easier to buy a 24'' long piece of flat steel and 2 longer bolts that thread into the crank. drill 2 holes on the steel bolt it to the back of the crank and presto you can torque away. works for removing and installing and you don't have to move the engine around as much. but the impact wrench is way easy. just hard to measure the torque.

it sounds like wide open throttle changes things. what does the ECU do differently at WOT?

i'd be tempted to put it on blocks or jack stands and reduce the tire pressure to half of normal. bagging them in plastic will help as well. tires sitting for 2 years may become out of round.

installing the FWD fuse under the hood grounds out the wire and therefore it grounds out a pin on the tcu. so my guess would be a wear spot on a wire in the harness somewhere that is grounding out. good luck.

glad i could help. congrats on the fix. happy motoring.

the 4eat phase 2 trans was introduced in 99. the biggest change at that time was they added more sensors to the trans. they look just like the speed sensor on the rear transfer housing. (also like a cam or crank sensor) the addition of these sensors means there are more wires in the harness and more pins in the connector. the trans code id numbers changed as well. phase 1 auto AWD trans start with TZ102Z... phase 2 in 99 started with TZ1A2Z... i think and later TZ1A4Z... i think. 99 mat have been a transition year and it is POSSIBLE that it would not work in a later car but i doubt it. i don't really think any of these are a one year trans. you can not rely on the interchange software at the salvage yards to be accurate in this regard. if they say it will fit , it will. but just because they say it will NOT fit does not mean it will not. case in point, if you search for a 96 outback auto trans, they will not return any 97 or 98s in the results. and they will work just fine. or when looking for a 97LSi auto trans it will not offer a 97GT as a solution. and the only difference is the speedo gears due to different size tires, same goes for outback. if the trans code number changes, the software thinks the trans changed. and it may have, but it may still work. so the rule of thumb is this, if the trans is from your year group, 95 - 98/99 (depending on the model) or 00 - 04 (i don't really know the particulars) and if the final drive ratio matches, and if the wiring connector matches, it will work.

P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical

some one posted years ago, (and i don't know if it is true) not to spray the nuts on those 2 studs. with luck the studs will thread out of the housing making it easier to drop the diff. it sounds good, but i don't know, never done it.

at http://opposedforces.com/parts where you found the trans number. but instead of transmission, look under train, as in drive train.

it should be, yes. if the wire connector matches the one in the car it should work. check the ring and pinion ratio. it would be listed in ''train'' section. if that matches the one in your car then it ''should'' work. where did you get the trans? how much?? any warranty ?

first, what's the code on the other trans? that will help. second, the trans number you listed is definitely a phase 2 trans. third, look at link below for more trans number info. http://opposedforces.com/parts

what year engine did you install? 93? newer?? did you swap the intake or use the one on the ''new'' engine? i used a 95 ej22 in a swap for an outback and had an exhaust leak, the EGR tube between the intake and the driver side head was missing. ran fine, no codes, but big leak. feel for an open hole or escaping exhaust on the rear of the driver side head. be careful of the heat. 93s don't have an EGR , i don't think, but 95 - 99s w/ auto trans do.

the wear pattern on your pads indicates that your calipers are not ''sliding'' as they should. IIRC: the rears are set up slightly differently from the fronts. or maybe the outbacks are different from the legos, whatever. on some the bolts are long, one per caliper and the other slide is an actually pin. they both need to be cleaned an lubed. on some the bolt is inside the actual ''slide pin'' which is really more of a tube. on these re-geasing the bolt does not really help, there is no ''sliding'' happening on the inside of the ''tube''. so the slide pins / tubes need to be removed and re-greased on the outside of each. and on some models, i think, the bolts are short and actually bolt to the slide pins which are threaded into the calipers. but i'm not sure. those may be on later models?

the 4.44s were in the 2.5L engines in the legacys at least, not sure about the 2.5L engines in the imprezas (if there were any 96 - 99). the 95 impreza auto has a 4.11 diff.

mine would come on occasionally last winter when we had deep snow and would reset it self when the snow melted off the wheels, hubs, whatever. it actually reset itself before i could even check it out, but it happened several times during deep snow driving so i just figured that's what it was.

i thought the rear sections were all the same, it was the fronts that were different lengths for manual and auto trans.

it is probably just a typo or over site, but based on the errors in this ebay ad i'm not sure i would buy from mizumoauto. but who knows. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt-Kit-GMB-Water-Pump-Subaru-EJ18-EJ25-90-97-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1995Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQ7cModelQ3aLegacyQQhashZitem53e50e6d7eQQitemZ360325213566QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

mine did this , i added fluid and it went away. warm fluid expands and reads higher than ice cold fluid. add fluid.

it looks like a closed block to me!!!!! is it for sale?

i read on another forum that rather than buy replacement shims for the valve adjustment that you could remove material from the top of the valve stems. i did not understand this or believe that it was practical, but it is what i read. is any one familiar with this process or it's viability? thanks

they are a match, no problems . do the swap and drive on. no need for the TCU. do 3 drain and fills , with driving in between, to replace the fluid.