johnceggleston

perhaps in an empty parking lot with snow and slush... try braking hard , let the ABS do it's thing and then pull on the parking break. just remember to keep the push button depress so you can release it if needed. you should still be able to steer the front of the car (a little) but the rear will probably lock up. this may well create the WORST of both worlds. or do some test to see if pumping will in fact disable the ABS.

i thought of this on another cooling thread, why haven't they gone to a computer controlled valve instead of a t-stat? everything else it computer controlled. obviously the mechanical ones we're using have worked for 100 years, but imagine how much coolant flow you might have if the computer sensed over heating and opened the valve 100%. cars without a t-stat run much cooler than those with, too cool , because there's less restriction in the pipe at the t-stat location. just a thought.

sound like 4TH and long, time to punt. if it were a subaru i'd say, buy a used hub? swap over the parts you can remove, rotor, caliper, etc. but this may not work on a jeep. i don't know how they are put together, but if a new axle is in the works, cut the old one.

it never occured to me that the "speed sensor" returns would have any thing to do with ABS. i just assumed that front was front speed sensor, VSS#2, and rear was VSS#1. call jamie at genuine subaru .com, 1-800-962-0822 shae will tell you straight. john.

look here and search key word "speed sensor". https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html or https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

i paid 575$ - 675$ all 3 times i've had it done (non-dealer). labor was in the 75$/hr range. 5) don't forget to have the oil pump o-ring replaced and the pump checked for loose bolts.

it's pretty easy to remove the hub asembly and almost easier to remove it with the axel still attached to the hub. (when i did it i couldn't find my socket for the axle nut so i just swapped the hub and axle.) i removed and reinstalled the hub/axle on both my 97obw and the donor car in about 4 hours. remember to mark the position of the top strut to hub bolt before removal and you may save the expense of an alignment. the top strut bolt adjusts camber, i think. but just because the boot on the axle is torn doesn't mean you need a new axle. and the way i here it these things, bearings and axles, make noise for a while before they fail. so maybe the rear can wait for warmer weather. but if you are buying a used assembly, why not get the axle with it. it sounds to me like this guy was looking for some problems with your car. but it could be he's just being careful and wanted you to know your future so you didn't come back at him and say "why didn't you do this when you did the hub?"

no, that's not the key board, it's my brain. i was beginning to think i knew something about repairing cars, when in fact i'm just a beginner.

i've heard the same thing, but they only cost 7$!!!!!!!!!!! why on earth would you different logic for a 7$ pcv when we always say "change the wires, it needs it". they cost 45+$. it's always challenging when you buy a used car.

yes it is a plug in unit and easy to replace, but unless you get an off year trans you won't need to replace it. search car-part.com for 92 legacy trans and see whats available. post a wanted ad here and see if you get lucky. also if you search car-part.com for a 92 legacy trans computer one of the early pages will give you a clue as to it's location, lrft side under the dash i think. but again, you don't need one unless you get an off year trans. http://car-part.com/ or this: http://www.crazedlist.org/

the 90 legacy A/T has 2 speed sensors. VSS#2 (for the speedometer) is on the front right of the trans visible from the passenger side rear of the engine compartment. it's abpout 1 - 1.25 inches in diameter, and threads in the trans housing. there is a cable (stiff black thing) comming off of it which finds it's way to the speedometer. possible problems are broken cable, gummed up cable, frozen cable... etc. or there is the possiblity that it is the speedometer, bad unit , bad connection, bad.... it's electric. (in 95 - 99 the VSS#2 is only a sending unit sending electric info to ther speedo. in 90 the cable relayed mechancial turns to the speedo and the electric work was done there.) there is a second one, VSS#1, on the AWD unit in the rear of the trans, very different. rumor has it that when the front one dies the second one takes over, but i thaink this may be for later models only. this is just foe the AWD unit. you should be able to get one used or certainly new online, and not too expensive. easy to replace, i think. but you need to determine if it's the VSS#2, cable or speedo. try: posting a wanted ad here or http://www.carpart.com and search.

yes, you need to replace the trans. once they start to slip it's time to replace. search for a replacement trans. buying a used trans will be cheaper than a rebuild. labor for removal and replacement will be in the 5 hr. range. when i did it i think it was more like 7 hours including the rear main seal and the 'seperator plate' on the engine. that brings us back to my earlier post, which trans will work. check on the 'for sale' site here, (forum> marketplace> classified,for sale), or http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12 . or post a new thread in the 'wanted' section. now is when you need your trans model number. i would look for a trans close to home. shipping can run 150$ easy, maybe 250$ for coast to coast. so a 500$ trans nearby = a 350/250$ far away. if you have time and space, you might consider looking or waiting for a wrecked 92 legacy. some can be had for 300$ - 600$ and maybe you can sell some other parts to offset your trans expenses. keep at it you're learning more every day. this is not a recommendation but a possibility, and only good for some one with survival skills, willing to be stranded in the dead of winter a long way from home. it maybe possible to drive this car for a while by starting in 1, shifting into 2 and running up the speed to about 40 - 50 or more and then shifitng into D. but again it won't work for long, and it will leave you stranded eventually.

not much different than a red warning light, only harder to notice.

this is a good place to start looking for parts. sort you search by distance so you view the ones within driving distance first. saves shipping. http://car-part.com/ these are the rules on replacement trans. get the same model and year as the one you have, or get the closest model and year you can AND get the TCU as well. (in AWD trans, you have to make sure you match your existing rear diff, but not in FWD.) usually, the changes from one year to the next are generally pretty mild, but in order to avoid buying a worthless lump of steel, if you get the matching TCU you should be ok. check the id tag under the hood on the driver side strut tower for trans model number (at least that's where it is for 95-99) . it should be a TA102Axxxx number. (those 2 'A's indicate FWD, AWD would be 2 'Z's.) the model numbers changed most every year, but that doesn't mean a 93 won't run in a 92. (salvage yards tend to be very careful in this area and they have good interchange software.) the model number is a 10 character number, (TZ102Z2CBA= 97 outback wagon, TZ102ZAAAA= 95 legacy sedan AWD) and in the 95-98 years the last 2 characters mean almost nothing. (BA=wagon, AA=sedan, i think.) in the outbak years, the 7TH character refers to the differential, and the 8TH generally refers to the year or which step in the series. (... TZ102Z2CBA=97 outback, ...TZ102Z2DBA= 98/99 outback, but these 2+1/2 years are completely interchangeable.) the 90 - 94 model numbers were a little different. but if first 8 characters of the trans model number match yours, is a pretty good bet that it will work. there's a good chance it will work if the first 6 characters match since differential isn't an issue (especially if you have the TCU). EDIT: 93/94 legacy FWD= TA102AA3AA; 90/91 legacy FWD= TA102AA1AA; the 92 is probably TA102AA2AA. of course, avoid the turbos. some one else with more 90 - 94 experience may know more. i hope this is more helpful than confusing.

did you see this: http://www.drivetrain.com/subaru_dt.htm#Legacy%204EAT call them, what have you got to lose. then call the first place and speak to the manager. tell him you are doing business with another company beacuse the first guy was a JERK. (he's paid to talk to customers)

skip, what if you added it as part of a drain and refill and pre-mixed it with a couple of qts. of ATF.? is that feasible?

i like the idea of the overheating or lack of proper cooling contributing to the head gasket failure. that would give me hope for the future of my engine. but it begs the question, if this helps eliminate the problem, why hasn't subaru changed the cooling system. even if they didn't admit the fault in the earlier versions, they could have made changes at the phase II point. a larger cooling system / radiator wouln't have been too expensive. as a non-engineer, i'm more inclined to believe the movement theory. this seems like it would be harder to correct. i don't know what it cost or what you would give up with a closed deck design, but it might be worth a shot. question: some of the later 2.5 have turbos, are they closed deck? (like some(?) of the ej22 turbos) do they have the same head gasket failure rate as the open deck design? (assuming they are in the years with the problems).

what is a thrust bearing and how does it's position affect the operation / performance of an engine? thanks, john

in the latter part of 99 the auto trans was changed, the trans wiring harness too. these late a/t don't fit in the newer 97 -98 cars and vice versa.

often whjen the axel boot tears it slings grease onto the exhaust, causing the burning oil smell. check the right front axel boot. tjhe 2.2 is a great engine, with any luck it is a 95 or 96. that would make it a non-interferrence engine and one of the best, if not the best, subaru ever made. nice pics, keep up the good play!!! who's your helper in the back seat?

sounds like a nice car. as you stated earlier, if it has DOHC then it's a 2.5L. your biggest concern for 2.5, 97 - 98, would be the 'head gasket'. use the search feature and you'll have enough to read till the superbowl starts. if the coolant over flow bottle is clean oyu should be ok, that's the first place to look. someone recently suggested that any overheat maybe the precursor to the head gasket problem. a new radiator cap couldn't hurt. the only other concern is 'torque bind'. this is when the AWD locks in 4WD and in binds up when making tight turns. again search and read. i fixed the torque bind in my 97 OBW. so far (110k miles), i haven't had the HG problem. can you hear me knocking on wood? 2.5s in general are hard to 'burp' the cooling system. so if you ever drain and refill do some reading first. i'm sorry to be bringing you this potential trouble spots, but in spite of these issues, i love my outback. john

welcome !!! glad to have you on board. i didn't know they put the 2.5 in a legacy in 97, i didn't even know they made an LSI in 97. i thought the 2.5 went into the outbacks and the GT. oh well live and learn.

the id tag on the driver's strut tower will have the engine model number. if it's a 2.5, the valves may be bent. how many miles on it? was the frame bent? it sounds like a lot of work to me. parts car maybe. 96 had fewer HG problems so that might be a good thing. oh. yeah, i have some 96 air bags, if you need them. john

tell her to never drive anywhere without a couple of football players in the backseat. reverse went out on my 95 legacy, i drove it for a few months and it was challengeing. i swapped the trans. it's a bummer that this will be your second used trans.

not to mention 96 was the last year for 2.2 non-interferrence engines. 95 - 98 will work. 96 is single port exhaust, you'll need the y-pipe. i don't know about 97 or 98 2.2, but subaru would be smart if both 2.2 and 2.5 used the same y-pipe for those years.