-
Posts
6699 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by johnceggleston
-
i can't tell from the picture, but is the cam sproket busted (the top cam sproket is the intake , the lower one is the exhaust) or is the timing belt cover busted. if the cams are intact and the belt is in tact, you may be ok. if the cam sproket is busted, what ever was goin to be damaged probably already is. but you might get lucky.
-
yes and no!! the timing belt is due at 105k miles, so if you disassemble to do the head gaskets at 75k miles you probably don't want to reassemble with old parts just to go back in in 30k miles. on the other hand, they are going to charge you twice for the labor for the t-belt. and actually the work they did wasn't needed and didn't fix the problem. (usually you do the water paump at the same timne as the t-belt, since water pump or t-belt failure will cause head/valve damage. and rarely do water pumps last 200k miles. mine went at 98k.) so if you use the same place to do the head gaskets, make them discount the price. act as though you paid for a repair and they didn't do it right. ask what made them think it was pump and belt. why didn't they look for the real cause. however any subaru mechanic worht his salt would have known or guessed head gaskets. you might consider it a lesson learned and look for another shop. one other thing, given the fact that they apparently don't know what in the world they are doing, check to see if you have warm air coming out of your heater when the temp guage rises. there could now be an air bubble in the coolling system causing it to overheat. search 'burp' an read how to get the air out. why are you now convinced it's a bad gasket?
-
my first reaction to your 'invoice' for the trans was that the AWD duty c solenoid valve asembly had been replaced. the items nneded sound like what you listed for that job, valve aasem, gasket, gasket, etc. posting part numbers would / could confirm this. but i tend to lean toward this explanation because that's the work i've had done. there are several valve assemb in the trans. but the AWD one is a fairly common repair. good luck with the car i hope she likes it.
-
i think a lot of the parts will interchange, but i'm not sure. it mat depend on the years. some ej25s used the same steering pump, ac compressor, alternator, and coil as ej22s. and i think i saw where the heads for a ej18 were the same as the heads for a ej22 90 - 95. but it would be good to ask about a specific part so some one who knows can answer. the other thing you can do is to search for the part you are wondering about at www.car-part.com . usually if the part matches 2 different cars or 2 different years the software will return matches from both or all models and years that match.
-
regarding the cleaning/blowing out of the check valve, would there be any benift in using an alcohol or similar spray to absorb the moisture? wouldn't blowing it out by mouth re-introduce moisture into the valve? any chance this problem, in part, is based on the conditions when you turn off, last used, the the car? and/or is there a good/better cold weather lubricant that might benifit the valve operation? just wondering.
-
probably a dumb question, but is the ethonal / gas mixture less expensive or is this an exercise in saving the earth.? has you $ per mile decereased? saw a TV show a couple of years ago that stated OPEC will keep gas / oil prices just below the point at which it's cheaper to find an alternative. therefore eliminating the ecomonic incentive to do so.
-
some offer a warranty on the part, 30 and 90 days are not uncommon. very few will pay for labor. most of these large parts are from wrecks and were running at the time of impact. ( i once bought a explorer engine with a parts and labor warranty.) i would ask the salvage yard about the quality of the part and i would ask your installer to check it before he installs. some of the donor cars are test driven before the parts are pulled. and no body wants the headache of selling a bad part. if they think it's bad they usually will say so. lower miles are better. and a local gives you the opportunity to talk face to face. generally, they are not looking to cheat you. if you get a bad part, most will make it right. they are in the business to sell parts, not just one trans sitting their back yard that was there when they moved in.
-
yes, get it from the same car as the trans if possible. you can search http://www.car-pat.com for the transmission computer as well. prices vary just like for trans. from "too high" to "so cheap it's scarry". i suggest sorting your search by distance so you look at the ones near by first. a 500$ trans in town may be cheaper than 350$ in texas.
-
what is the production date for your car?. it should be on the driver door post. do the 97 - 99 2.2L engines have solid lifters? maybe they started using solid mid-year when the hydraulic parts ran out. the 2.2L, 97 - 99 have dual port or single exhaust? seems very inefficient to use single port heads for just one year.
-
the trans in your 96 2.5 outback is a TZ102Z2ABA. this is the first year for this trans / diff combination and they used this trans in 2.2L AND 2.5L outbacks in 96. this is the only time a 2.2 L had a TZ102Z2xxx trans. the 97 2.5L = TZ102Z2CBA and the 98 & 99(early) 2.5L = TZ102Z2DBA are very similar, if not a perfect match. (the BA in the end of the trans model number refer to the model of car the trans was put in, BA=outback, CA=GT legacy, AA=LSi legacy(97 only)). the critical part of the trans model number is the 7TH position '2'. this characture defines the differential. (after 96 it defines the engine, 2.5L) if you don't get an exact match on your trans model number, base your decision on the price of the trans plus the TCU, (you may need it , you probably won't if you stick with outback trans). if the trans model number doesn't have the 7th position '2' in it, then plan on buying the matching rear differential as well. to review, get a 2.5L outback trans 96 - 99(early) with a model number that starts with TZ102Z2..... if it's not a 96 you may need the TCU, but i doubt it. try looking here: http://www.car-part.com
-
i came across this and the poster sounded pretty hopeless. i emailed her(?) and told her to log on here and ask for help. if any one has time and energy to help out give an her a shout. i suggested a second opinion. when she responded to my email she said this was her second subaru which she bought based on the first one's performance. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/wan/276683395.html if anyone there can help give her a shout.