johnceggleston

my first reaction to your 'invoice' for the trans was that the AWD duty c solenoid valve asembly had been replaced. the items nneded sound like what you listed for that job, valve aasem, gasket, gasket, etc. posting part numbers would / could confirm this. but i tend to lean toward this explanation because that's the work i've had done. there are several valve assemb in the trans. but the AWD one is a fairly common repair. good luck with the car i hope she likes it.

i think a lot of the parts will interchange, but i'm not sure. it mat depend on the years. some ej25s used the same steering pump, ac compressor, alternator, and coil as ej22s. and i think i saw where the heads for a ej18 were the same as the heads for a ej22 90 - 95. but it would be good to ask about a specific part so some one who knows can answer. the other thing you can do is to search for the part you are wondering about at www.car-part.com . usually if the part matches 2 different cars or 2 different years the software will return matches from both or all models and years that match.

the 95 - 99 legacys and outbacks are known to throw a code for the cat when it really is the front o2 sensor that needs to be replaced. if you get a new cat your're probably going to get the new o2 sensor as well. i'd try the sensor first. lots cheaper.

regarding the cleaning/blowing out of the check valve, would there be any benift in using an alcohol or similar spray to absorb the moisture? wouldn't blowing it out by mouth re-introduce moisture into the valve? any chance this problem, in part, is based on the conditions when you turn off, last used, the the car? and/or is there a good/better cold weather lubricant that might benifit the valve operation? just wondering.

or wait for the new subie diesel.

in the last couple of weeks i've read a few classifides , in other places, that talked about rear lights being "straight wired". it made me think that there might be a bad switch or relay. but the meter will lead the way. good luck and let us know what you find.

the shorter bumper on the brighton makes it look taller.

probably a dumb question, but is the ethonal / gas mixture less expensive or is this an exercise in saving the earth.? has you $ per mile decereased? saw a TV show a couple of years ago that stated OPEC will keep gas / oil prices just below the point at which it's cheaper to find an alternative. therefore eliminating the ecomonic incentive to do so.

some offer a warranty on the part, 30 and 90 days are not uncommon. very few will pay for labor. most of these large parts are from wrecks and were running at the time of impact. ( i once bought a explorer engine with a parts and labor warranty.) i would ask the salvage yard about the quality of the part and i would ask your installer to check it before he installs. some of the donor cars are test driven before the parts are pulled. and no body wants the headache of selling a bad part. if they think it's bad they usually will say so. lower miles are better. and a local gives you the opportunity to talk face to face. generally, they are not looking to cheat you. if you get a bad part, most will make it right. they are in the business to sell parts, not just one trans sitting their back yard that was there when they moved in.

yes, get it from the same car as the trans if possible. you can search http://www.car-pat.com for the transmission computer as well. prices vary just like for trans. from "too high" to "so cheap it's scarry". i suggest sorting your search by distance so you look at the ones near by first. a 500$ trans in town may be cheaper than 350$ in texas.

what is the production date for your car?. it should be on the driver door post. do the 97 - 99 2.2L engines have solid lifters? maybe they started using solid mid-year when the hydraulic parts ran out. the 2.2L, 97 - 99 have dual port or single exhaust? seems very inefficient to use single port heads for just one year.

the trans in your 96 2.5 outback is a TZ102Z2ABA. this is the first year for this trans / diff combination and they used this trans in 2.2L AND 2.5L outbacks in 96. this is the only time a 2.2 L had a TZ102Z2xxx trans. the 97 2.5L = TZ102Z2CBA and the 98 & 99(early) 2.5L = TZ102Z2DBA are very similar, if not a perfect match. (the BA in the end of the trans model number refer to the model of car the trans was put in, BA=outback, CA=GT legacy, AA=LSi legacy(97 only)). the critical part of the trans model number is the 7TH position '2'. this characture defines the differential. (after 96 it defines the engine, 2.5L) if you don't get an exact match on your trans model number, base your decision on the price of the trans plus the TCU, (you may need it , you probably won't if you stick with outback trans). if the trans model number doesn't have the 7th position '2' in it, then plan on buying the matching rear differential as well. to review, get a 2.5L outback trans 96 - 99(early) with a model number that starts with TZ102Z2..... if it's not a 96 you may need the TCU, but i doubt it. try looking here: http://www.car-part.com

try car-part.com , and sort your search by distance. pick a major city near you. this will bring up the used trans that are near / in canada ans eliminate the shipping / customs thing. good luck.

well now you have piqued my interest. how can you you tell , by looking at the engine , which you have, hydraulic or solid?? sounds like 96MY could be either. OR did this change coincide with the 97 interferrence 2.2L engine?

college kids always have the best toys!! and cool software too!

thanks, very helpful. but the more i read the more i think 2.2L engines are my limit. between tools and potential damage.... 2.5's are too risky for me.

anyone have a picture of this tool. would it be hard to fabricate?

another 50k and it will be to the moon and back. you and apollo 13, too bad subaru doesn't build spaceships.

i came across this and the poster sounded pretty hopeless. i emailed her(?) and told her to log on here and ask for help. if any one has time and energy to help out give an her a shout. i suggested a second opinion. when she responded to my email she said this was her second subaru which she bought based on the first one's performance. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/wan/276683395.html if anyone there can help give her a shout.

and then the obvious. if everything else is equal, which one do you like more.

i can't be specific about putting the torqur converter on to the trans, because i've never done it. but some one posted it would be a good idea to measure the distances from the TC to the trans/diff befroe you disaessemble it so you know what to shoot for when you put it back together. you'll have a reference point. sounds like a good idea to me. on another thought. for 335$ i'd probably pay the guy ot install the trans for me. of course there's the ATFluid and the seperator plate replacement on the rear of the engine to add in if it hasn't been done. just a thought.

did your parents ever bow down to the great and powerful 'wizard of soob'?

the TZ102Z2DBA is the model number, you just need to confirm that it is the trans in your car. meaning someone didn't swap it as well as the engine. so if the model number on the trans is TZ102Z2DBA, as the id tag indicates, then the 2 model numbers posted above will work without any issues. when talking to salvage yards, they are going to ask for year, make, model, and/or engine. (98, subaru outback, 2.5L) their software will return 97 - 98 trans with those 2 model numbers. giving them model number will not help them find a match and may only confuse the issue. but you can have them confirm the model number on the trans before you buy or have it shipped. if it isn't TZ102Z2DBA or ... 2CBA, then don't buy it.

only the -KF is missing, this isn't really part of the model number, maybe a date reference i don't know. but still not needed. Sport Utility Sedan, basically it's an outback sedan rather than an outback wagon. CORRECT, but double check the model number on your trans bell housing at the starter. no, if you stick with the 2 listed model numbers, you don't have to worry about gear ratios or anything else, as long as someone didn't change the trans and rear diff. again check the model number on your trans at the starter.

this trans was used in with the 2.5L engine in 98 and early 99. this includes outback, GT and LSi if they made one that year. you could also use the 97 2.5L trans, TZ102Z2CBA. unless the former owner replaced the trans and the rear differential, which is doubtful, you have to use a 2.5L trans. this is designated by the 7TH position '2' in the trans model number. in 99, late, they changed the to the phase II trans and the wiring harness changed so you can't use those or later (they end in ...ZJEBA). 96 trans are a little tricky because there were 2.5 outbacks and 2.2 outbacks, but again i think the 7TH position '2' is key. it has also been posted that the last 2 positions in the trans model number mean nothing. they only indicate which car the 2.5L trans was used in, GT vs. outback. so this means that a TZ102Z2DBA = TZ102Z2DAA etc. but it would be good to confirm this by comparing a SUS trans with a OBW. i don't think you need the TCU if you use the 97 - 99 (early) outback trans. a recent posting had a link to a transmission part supplier and they sold a rebuild kit for legacy/outback trans which works for 90 - 06 legacy a/t. this would suggest that the trans for all these years are very, very similar. it is my opinion, and only my opinion that all of the late 90's legacy/impresa/forester used the same trans. they just made it work differently for different models by changing the final drive ratio and the shift points by changing the TCU. just my opinion. so to answer your question, 97 - 99(early), with model # TZ102Z2CBA or TZ102Z2DBA. that is unless they changed the rear diff. your trans should have the model number on it where the starter is bolted on, driver side near the fire wall, under the air box(?).