Quidam

Hey, Look here for gasket sets, rings, valves...bearings are common among early ea engines I believe. http://stores.ebay.com/Vintage-Imports-Inc_Subaru_W0QQ_fsubZ9742663QQ_sidZ7898167QQ_stickyZ1QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14?_sop=10&_sc=1 Have a couple more sources if you need them. The FUJI exhaust valves on that page for two dollars each are original equipment. Doug

EJ to EJ, the spec is "FLAT". I'm not sure what would be best EJ to EA.

http://athensohio.craigslist.org/cto/1583731605.html I don't see many of these around here. Are those rotarys disposable? I mean, they're not remanufactured. Doug

Flywheel spec for XT6 is .815, for an EA-82 .827. But it's the same clutch kit. From the disc surface to the pressure plate mounting surface. What do you think of that? Doug I got those specs from RHINO

there are some heavy 'farm wagon' quads that haul trailers and such, but who know's if they'll work." Look at these:http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Wheels-Tires/Section/Wheels/Part-Type/Wheels/Brand/Summit-Racing/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern/4-x-137mm/Load-Rating-lbs/1-124-lbs/Wheel-Diameter/14-in/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc 14", (I've been told to check back for 15"). 4X137 bolt pattern, 1124 lb. load rating. Doug

FYI. A simple dry compression test will tell you how good the rings and bore are on any engine. That one should be around 168 if the bore and rings were like new. Doug

"But rotarys are oil burners and pigs when it comes to fuel" You can have carb or EFI. The RX 4, 13B 1308 cc came with a 465 cfm spread bore Hitachi 4 Bore Carb. If I have that right, and I'm not sure I do. That's a big carb.

"1. what possible scenarios could have caused this type of failure" Possibly the different thermal expansion rates of the heads and headbolts? I know people who "say" it didn't really get that hot, but they still get home with them:) Doug

Hey, Product Core Unit Price Qty Item Total For your 1994 Subaru Justy 1.2L MFI SOHC 3cyl Felpro/Conversion Gasket Set Part Number: CS9528 Availability: Ships within 3-5 business days. N/A $38.99 1 $38.99 Timken/Camshaft Seal Part Number: 223018 Availability: Ships within 2 business days. N/A $6.99 1 $6.99 SUBTOTAL: $45.98 SHIPPING: $5.70 TAXES: $3.48 TOTAL: $55.16 These will be charged when shipped, for an EF-12. Btw, I have OEM crank seals too. IME, there can be like 3/16" differences on where the sealing lips of the seal rest on the crank for instance. So it may seal like new, just depends. Other option is redi-sleeve, the Subaru doesn't have to leak oil. I have a National cam seal kit for the EA-82, USA. Same deal with the lips, as I have two brands of seals. The Timken Redi-Sleeve is about $20.00 compared to the Federal Mogul. National is the MFG, looks like FM is the middle man here. Costs more. AutoZone saved me money on the conversion gasket set and I still prefer that parts be delivered. Doug

Hey GD, Stripes for skills, I didn't even go through AIT. Basic training to permanant duty assignment. Doug

I don't know. But JDM...I got a power steering pump an a water choke on one EF-12, before I knew they existed. Doug

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ECatalog.cfm?RequestType=GetCategories&VehicleId=1268614&EngineName=1.8L H4 GAS FI VIN 4 The Beck/Arnley stuff is drying up, the old stock anyway. I bought two sets of their piston rings and they are up-scale...I don't know who makes them. USA The oil scraper is a Napier ring, costs more to produce, less friction. They're better than OEM. They fit better. I had read about Melling making the balance shaft chain for the EF-12. I ended up at Northern Auto Parts. They sell them, like $16.00, they sell a guide too that you can't find just anywhere. They have a balance shaft sprocket, not usual. It's ITM...only ITM I've bought is FUJI. What I found too were those Victor gaskets:) For the EF-12, and I just looked, for the EA-82. They have the Victor exhaust manifold kits. My choices now have evolved, dealer, Rock Producs, Fel-Pro, ITM, Victor, Cloyes, Melling...and of course, the ebay stuff.

Oh, and btw: You've stated your qualifications here before so now is as good a time as any for me to state mine. 1504 hour, 2 year program Auto Mechanics. Year one I scored the highest in my class on a state acheivement test. 2nd year, I scored the second highest. That was the factor in a new car dealership recruiting me. That got me "stripes for skills" when I enlisted in the US Army as a 63 B wheeled vehicle mechanic. E-4 within the first year. Doug

"Aftermarket are all cardboard and they are all crap. They can't handle the coolant cross-over passage." Like the Weber "adaptor" gaskets. Like the Weber adaptor, aftermarket crap. (You'd need to run a modified "aftermarket" manifold to see the full benifit from it, btw. IMO. Doug

EA-82 Beck/Arnley. Mfg. Subaru-Fuji Heavy industries Ltd. front and rear crank seals. NOK Beck/Arnley. Cam seal kit. Mfg. KOK. No country of origin anywhere. Beck/Arnley. Cam seal kit. Mfg. Nothing but numbers. No mfg anywhere. Maid In Taiwan. Looks exactly like the set above. Purple/Blue O-rings. Edit:Beck/Arnley water pump and thermostat gasket. Subaru, FHI LTD. Japan Federal Mogul. National Redi-Sleeves, 1.490-1.496 Shaft. Made In USA (for camshaft) TIMKEN. Shaft Repair Sleeve."Made In United States" (for crankshaft rear main) EF-12e Front and rear crank seals. Beck/Arnley, Japan. Mfg. THO Water pump mechanical seal. Beck/Arnley, Japan. Mfg. NPW (Nissan Pump Mfg. Co, LTD.)

I did a quick google: Subaru introduced the Subaru Legacy Sport Sedan to the US domestic market for the 1991 model year. The Sport Sedan was a 2.2L 4-cylinder, SOHC, turbocharged, non-intercooled variant of the JDM Legacy (which was fitted with a 2.0L 4-cylinder, DOHC, turbocharged and intercooled engine to compete in the World Rally Championship). The USDM engine produced 160hp @ 5600rpm, and 181lb/ft of torque @ 2800rpm. Pretty modest numbers for a turbocharged car. This is due to the lack of an intercooler and factory-limited boost at 8.7psi (http://www.xmission.com/~dac/library/turbo_info.htm). ENGINE BLOCK (information and pictures adapted from: http://www.sdsefi.com/air17.html). The engine has a closed deck providing a much stiffer cylinder assembly and better head gasket sealing. Cast iron liners about .125 thick are cast right into the aluminum. The block is a precision medium-pressure sand-cast unit, which affords the block the necessary rigidity to withstand closed decking (SAE technical document #890471). The majority of Subaru blocks are instead high-pressure, die-cast aluminum, and although stout, do not have the same rigidity to withstand high boost pressure. This is due to high-pressure casting forcing air pockets into the aluminum mass as it cools. The result is a block with more localized stress areas within its structure. Conversely, a medium-pressure cast aluminum crankcase will be denser and more rigid. Subaru spared no expense in the development and manufacture of the block as the medium-pressure casting procedure is quite extensive, and more importantly, expensive, when compared to the typical high-pressure castings (xephyr). It should be noted that the increased density of the M-P aluminum block has the propensity to retain heat to a greater degree than its H-P brethren. Subaru has addressed this issue by incorporating plenty of coolant passages in the head to block area and a wide bore spacing, which allows for higher boost levels to be maintained. The coolant flow path has split passages in the block to force coolant from the lower block, through the head and back into the upper block. This setup uses natural convection to aid direction and efficiency of coolant flow. Closed Deck Block Oil Jets/Main Center Bearings Engine Block Half The turbo engine has piston oil jets to cool the piston domes under boost. In order to feed these jets (and the turbo) Subaru utilized a higher pressure, larger flow oil pump (xephyr). Extensive ribbing in the casting on many of the water and oil passages help to dissipate heat from these areas as well. The block halves are attached with ten 10mm bolts and seven 8mm bolts, creating a very rigid design. The 3 center main caps which span the cylinder bores are 2 inches thick and carefully radiused to preclude any chance of cracking.

Well, if I remember right, the EA are die cast. They did some EJ-22 in sand, the rest is die cast. Die cast is cheaper to make. I take it as, "inexpensive, and built that way". Or something. If someone knows for sure, I'm all ears one way or the other. Doug

Hey. I searched. I remember GD mentioning that block, but it didn't show up. I remember it from elsewhere too. What year do I look for to source one of these? Oh, probably a new one, which reminds me to check with a dealer for price. Doug

Allright, I'll go ahead and type it:) It's because you have the tach wire hooked to the blower motor. I'll be out there in a couple of months for the beer. Doug

Hi, I've bought from importers on the west coast, so that's all I'm familiar with. Last one I bought from an individual who bought, then didn't use it. Ended up with shipping to me, about $70.00 less than he paid for it. Doug

One thing you can do is ask the seller to pop the valve covers off and take a picture for you. If they won't do it, I wouldn't buy it. A coating of sludge would be a no go. If it's clean with a little varnish, it's probably ok. Doug

15K in 8 years or so is pretty low use. Every time an engine is shut off and cools down, there is the possibility of rust that forms on the bore surface, from about 120* F to 70/90* F. What you may find is the lower oil control rings gummed/seized up. Doug

I took a new EA-81 intake valve and reduced the O.D. of the head a bit, so it would drop into a EF-12 Justy oil pump recess. It's like the recess for the EA-82 oil pump. Flatened and polished the head, (combustion chamber side). Fill the center divot with JB Weld, and flattened that. Spray adhesive to attach very fine wet/dry sandpaper. Drop it in the recess and rotate, under water for lubricant, to polish and clean up that flat section. Rotate back and forth by hand i mean. Doug

Just recieved some closeout Beck/Arnley engine valves to round out a set. Genuine Subaru.

" and focus on the actual source of parts suppliers, and their relationships." Hey Miles, I have a Beck/Arnley head gasket here with the Subaru Logo. I have Honda for a distributor rotor in the Subaru made by Hitachi. I have new ITM badged engine valves with a sticker covering up the FUJI logo. I bought nine of those valves, and one of them has a Subaru logo still on it. Someone ground the logo off on the others. The NOK if I remember right is associated with NGK. For crossing parts over without a parts book, I just have used ebay. Looking at the listings will often show a page of crossovers. Well, just some thoughts. Doug