Mark Humble

This is the best way to bleed brakes, I would add only one thing, pump the pedal slowly and smoothly. You don't want to make big air bubbles into small bubbles. Small bubbles can attach to the inside of the system and are really hard to get out.

If you have spark then at least one belt is ok. Dump some gas in the intake and see if it fires. Just because the fuel pump comes on doesn't mean the fuel is getting in the engine.

Does this mean if you install a bigger parking light switch you'll get more boost?

As to your other post, check the fusible links located next to the coolant recovery tank. There is a wire coming from pos batt terminal to the fusible link holder that powers up all the fusible links. It a bad design as its not sealed so it can corrode. Many electrical problems can be traced back to this thing. The fusible links power up the fuse pannel inside the car, connect the alt to the batt., ect.

Don't worry about TDC. Use the three lines to set the crankshaft position and set one cam sproket pointer up and the other one down. There are two sets of marks on the timing belt cover for lining up the cam sprokets, top and bottom. By setting one cam to the top mark and the other cam to the bottom mark you can put both belts on without the need to rotate the crank one full turn between installing belts. It doesn't matter which cam is up or down, just set the cam which is the easiest to see the bottom mark on the lower mark.

Well, close. HWY 3 N off of 299W.

Sounds to me like your'e asking for a broken crank, not a lot of beef in there.

On my way home from work today, snowing like crazy, I see a 96 or 97 wagon that had gone off the road and down a steep embankment and rolled many times. Not a strait piece of sheet metal left. Rear hatch torn off. This was a realy clean car. I felt realy bad for them as I motored on by in my 89 GL wagon. They must not have had good tires on it as I wasn't having any trouble, in fact I was having fun. The plus side is more parts for others. Follow that tow truck!!!!

Looks like a 88 GL Wagon 4WD, Auto Trans, 1800cc EA82, SPFI. Does that help?

With fan motors, when the bearings wear, the rotating parts (armature) can start to vibrate under certain conditions. I had one that whined only in right turns. So when you set the system on defrost it might just right amount of load on the motor to make it whine. But I wouldn't rule out a leaf either. My 69 Chevy truck likes to pull that one all the time.

If you have any spray carb cleaner or starting fluid on hand, you might try squirting some in the throttle body just as you start to open the throttle to see if it is in fact running lean. If it still dies, then I would start looking at the ignition system.

Most likely the fan motor bearings. Sometimes they can be lubed and will stop making noise for a while. But some motors can't be lubed. All you can do is try.

Coolant Temp Sensor or fuel pressure.

Don't remove the battery cable to see if the engine will stay running. This can damage all kinds of things. Most people don't have the right equipment to test an alt, so take it to someone who does.

Could you have installed the seal too far in? I know that on a EA82 if the seal is pushed in too far the lip on the seal will extend off the end of the crankshaft. The crank only has about an inch or less for the seal to ride on. Putting the seal flush with the case takes up half of that. Pressed in too far and seal lip will hang over the end of that part of the crank. The other thing that comes to mind is if while installing the seal, part of the inner lip got folded back. This is really easy to do as you can't see if it folded back as the seal was being installed. Using a seal protector during installation is the only way to insure this does not happen.

I checked the tire circumference and found the fronts to be 1 inch larger circumference than the rears. Then it started to snow. "YES" On the way home from work I got into about 2 inches of snow, not as much as I had hoped for, but things were fine as long as I stayed out of other tracks. I love my Subaru. I could have had a lot of fun if it weren't for the non Subaru oweners going so slow. So it looks like an inch of difference in circumference from front to rear is too much. However it goes really good in the snow. Thanks for your input.

It has high and low range and a five speed. It looks like it might snow today so I may get a chance to run in 4WD in at least deeper snow. This car has never been off road in its life. Not even a slight scrach on the skid plate. Maybe I should take it out in the mud someday.

The other day while driving in slush, I decided to try 4WD. But it seemed like the power was nearly cut in half. I haven't had a chance to drive in snow more than just an inch or so and the tires are getting to the pavement. So I was wondering if a difference in tire circumference could be the cause. The fronts are new, but the rears are a little more worn, but not too much more. The car is an 89 GL wagon with 4WD and SPFI. I haven't had a chance to check the circumference of the tires to see what the difference really is due to too much rain and slush. I wouldn't think the ECU would be programed to cut the power while in 4WD. What fun would that be?

Would this be at the back of the car? Like under the fuel tank.

Helicoils do work, but only if they are installed correctly. There is a Heli-Coil brand kit to do it right. However it costs too much for most people. I have it because I use it a lot at work. So the best thing to do is find someone who has the kit and have them install a Heli-Coil of the right length. It can be done without removing the head.

Sometimes when a spring on the centrifugal advance weights breaks or comes off, the weight starts hitting the dist hsg and sending ground up aluminum all over the place. Could cut the disty in two.

Check fuse #11, 15 amp. This one powers the fuel pump relay, purge control solonoid, egr solonoid, aux air valve, and waste gate control.

The higher up you go the richer it should run. However, with more fuel in the mix the harder the ign sys has to work to fire it. Check the usual stuff, plugs,wires,cap,rotor,ect.

Lifter! You should hear mine, the tapping comes and goes so much it sounds like its trying to play a tune. I have many lifters doing it. When they stop tapping, the engine is realy quiet.