Subarian

That's 'cause the cam towers aren't on them. There's not much that's prettier than clean, freshly machined metal.

Oh, and one other thing. There's a different axle for the turbo and non-turbo cars.

I thought you were talking about the block?I'd boil the block and replace the radiator.

I actually had a clamp on both lines, but I guess one wasn't tight enough. I couldn't find my small vise grips... children find such interesting uses for tools.

Not to rain on your parade, but 17 mpg for a sube isn't very good. You should be getting at least 25.

It's amazing what they'll do. I have a full-size 4wd and I'd rather drive the Subaru, especially in the snow.

Stumbling or hesitation (we're talking about acceleration here) is usually caused by a bad accelerator pump. If you get a rebuild kit it should take care of it.

Look on the top front of the engine near the dipstick tube. You should find a casting that says EA 82. That means it's a 1.8 liter overhead cam engine.

Welcome. It's a great place to get information and share ideas.

If it's before the turbo, it could. If it's after it, it shouldn't.

You're on the right track. I would unbolt and disconnect only as much as you need to in order to pull the intake back out of the way.

Your idle should come down almost immediately. If it doesn't, it can increase wear on transmission components (clutch in a manual, torque convertor in an auto)

I was chugging up the freeway onramp yesterday, so I decided to change my fuel filter today (carbed EA82). Every time I do this I wonder What kind of genius came up with the idea of putting a fuel filter at the lowest point in the fuel system???!!! The good news is that we're running like a top again.

I use a light coat of motor oil. When you oil head bolts, you need to be careful, because it's really easy to overtorque.

It seems to me the simple solution would be to drill the new lugs centered between the old holes. There really wouldn't be any reason to weld up the old holes.

You don't need to worry about it. Your oil pressure is in the normal range for these engines. Most of your running is going to be in the 2500-3500 rpm range, anyway.

Two thoughts on blown head gaskets on older subarus: 1. Early turbo models had a nasty habit of cracking heads. Since the symptoms can be identical to a blown head gasket, it's hard to tell, but a cracked head is way more expensive. 2. If you do end up replacing a head gasket, it's not a difficult job for a fairly competent backyard mechanic. Just remember that you're working with an aluminum block and aluminum heads, and you need to treat them accordingly.

Your clutch cable should have two nuts on the adjustment threads. The second nut is a jam nut. It's there to maintain the adjustment. If you don't have it, your clutch can't stay adjusted. It works by jamming it against the adjustment nut with a wrench while holding the adjusting nut with another wrench.

Not sure. I'd check the PCV first.

Improper wheel alignment can also make it difficult to disengage. I had a wagon I bought for my kids to drive that hard a hard time disengaging. I got it aligned and it dropped out of 4wd perfectly. Until my son hit a curb two weeks later.

20w50 sounds kind of heavy to me. I'd put in some 10w30 and see what that does for you.

I bought a really nice set at Costco that fit my 86 wagon really nicely. I think it was only like $25-30 for the whole 4 pc set.

I just want the flames for mine.

Nice slime. I wish I were that good with photoshop.

I only feel comfortable if I can hear my pump. I know it's not going to leave me stranded (it's happened before, that's how I know).