Subarian

Yeah, what nipper said, and reseal the oil pump too. It's cheap and easy, and when you're replacing the t-belts is a good time to do it.

On mine I can hear it running. I think my neighbors can too!

I just went out and looked at mine. It attaches to the bracket that holds the pipe coming out of the water pump. It grounds the engine.

I think if you made spacers to go under the carbs you could incorporate the water passages in the spacer. Then join them with heater hose.

I have a carbed EA 82 with a Weber 32/36. I think you could get 150 HP if you used two of them. Seriously, though, there aren't a lot of performance mods you can make to the carbed motor to get power out of it. You can advance the timing a little, put on the Weber, add cold air induction, but it's still not going to get you to 100 HP. Since there aren't really any aftermarket internals for the EA 82 (I know the aircraft engine guys might disagree with this, but I've searched), you're pretty much stuck with a nice engine that won't complain if you abuse it, will last forever, but gets you there when it gets you there.

Not a bad idea. It would probably extend the life of your Subaru, too. We used to do something like that with V8 Vegas back in the day, but that's another story...

Which year/model? Also, you might want to post in the marketplace rather than here.

I would take the car to the auto parts store. They can check the charging system on the car, which might help you out. I always look at battery terminals first when there's a starting or charging problem.

Actually, you can. It doesn't have a bleeder on it, but I've gotten air out of it after a MC replacement by pumping the brake and then slightly cracking the fitting.

My heads were cracked between the valve seats. I think it was a gen II head. The car was a 87 or 88.

The engine was produced from 1985 to 1994. I know it was available in the DL, GL, GL-10, and Loyale wagons in those years. I don't know the years for other models.

I'd avoid the brakes. It's best just to put brake fluid in your system.

Thanks for the compliment. I withdraw my earlier post.

Any other EA 82 engine is a direct bolt in, but you may need other parts from the donor car to complete the installation. If you put in a turbo, you'll need all the mechanical parts, plus the ECM and wiring harness, for example. You can put in a newer series motor, but that takes more engineering.

You can pull the distributor cap. If the driver's side belt broke, the rotor won't turn while you crank the engine. There are also inspection covers on the front of the timing belt covers. You can pull them off and feel for stripped teeth. Unfortunately, that's not always accurate, because if the teeth are stripped off at the crank, the belt won't turn.

Actually, in Hungary it will probably be liters per minute. Running the tank low won't hurt an external pump. That's true of an internal pump, but the older subarus all have external pumps. The fuel around the pump in an internal pump helps to cool it, but only the fuel running through the pump on an external pump helps cool it. The fuel pump relay may be the culprit. On my 86 carbed subaru, I ran a new line from the positive terminal on the coil to the fuel pump and bypassed the relay completely, after having been stranded twice by bad relays.

When you rejet it, pay attention to the air corrector jets. They play an important part in getting it set up right.

Carbs should always be assembled dry - no gasket sealer. The jets don't need to be replaced unless you are running too lean or rich. Cleaning them is all that is normally needed. The EasyOut might work. Just make sure you don't strip the threads. You could also try getting a pair of vice grips on the seat.

The difference is in the thickness of the casting around the exhaust ports. The later heads are less likely to crack, but as Subieguy said, the only way to be sure is to inspect them.

I agree. Turn it 180 degrees. Since it has an odd number of splines, the wrist pin can only go through if the splines are lined up right. If you have the pin out, you can stick a small screwdriver or drift through before you try to put the pin in to make sure it's lined up. Don't worry- you're almost there!

I don't know about the newer Soobs, but the automatic transmissions in the older generation don't have a very good reputation.

With the carbureted engine, it's easy. You don't really need a pressure guage, because the pump only has to get fuel to the needle valve. Just remove the fuel line from the carburetor and put it into a container (a glass jar works fine), and turn the key on. You should have fuel running into the container. It should only take about 30 seconds to fill the container 1/4 to 1/2 full. Also look at the condition of the fuel. It may have water or other contaminants in it. If it does, you'll probably have to drain your tank, unless it's a small amount of water. If you do find water, you can add about a liter of denatured alcohol to your tank. The alcohol will mix with the water and allow it to run through the engine. I would also check your needle vavle and your float level. You say your mechanic cleaned your carburetor, but did he put a rebuild kit in it? Needle valves tend to stick when they get old, and the only cure is to replace them. I would also ask your mechanic (or whoever opened up your carburetor) what the float bowl looked like. If there was water in there, it's almost guaranteed there's still water in your tank.

It's been a while since I did this (I have 253,000 on mine) but I remember it being up high and to the left under the dash, above the trim on the left side of the footwell. Hope this helps.

You have a DGEV (the E is for electric, A is for water choke). The G means the bellcrank is on the right-hand side of the carb (from driver's perspective) which is where you need it for a Subaru. The brass floats are standard in the Weber, because they don't absorb gasoline and lose their setting over time. You got a good deal. A rebuild kit goes for about $25 online.Depending on the difference in application and altitude, you may need to rejet the carb. There's a good tech page at www.redlineweber.com.