Subarian

A lot of these older soobs run really low at idle. As long as it picks up when you gas it, I wouldn't worry too much.

Not so quick. A bad PCV will make hershey's on your dipstick. If it's coolant mixing with oil, it will be milky-looking, and your oil will be over-full.

If you're buying aftermarket, you just need to measure the size on your radiator (I'd go with the largest that will fit) and buy one that's going to fit. As far as mounting, the kit will include mounting hardware. The one I'm familiar with has plastic tabs that go through the fins.

I was just looking at tires and found these I'd like for my own Soob. I wouldn't mind having the wheels, too.

I know someone who's running 14 inch Mazda rims with 205/75R14s with no rubbing.

I'm assuming yours is not a turbo. If you get a LSD from a turbo car, you have two choices: 1. Change the ring gear (look at the USMB tech articles to find out how) 2. Change to a turbo trans. Of course, you'd also have to change the clutch and the axle shafts, as those are also unique to the turbo. If you try to run with different gear ratios, you'll bind up as soon as you put it in 4WD, unless you're on ice.

Here's a pic of it courtesy of partsamerica. If you still need a pic of it on the engine, I'll try to take one and post it tomorrow (Friday).

Lincoln locker refers to welding the ring gear so the diff locks. The name probably comes from the Lincoln welder (just a guess). You can do that, but you have to remove one of the rear axle shafts to run on the road. Limited-slip differentials mostly came in turbo cars. The turbos have a 3.7:1 gear ratio, while the NA have a 3.9:1 ratio. You can swap out the ring gear to use a LSD from a turbo car in a non-turbo. They're marked on the tag on the rear of the differential.

When talking about most part-time 4wd systems, you have either locking or automatic hubs. Locking hubs require you to get out and lock them to use the 4wd; otherwise, power is transmitted to the axle but the axle doesn't transmit power to the wheel. Automatic hubs are similar, but when forward force is applied to the axle, it causes the hub to engage. On your 4wd Subaru, you have a CV shaft that directly drives each hub. There is no provision to unlock the hub from the shaft. When you are in 2wd, the rear wheels are still turning the axle shafts. So in effect, your hubs are always locked.

Not sure about the routing on the XT, but on the GL you have to make a couple of 90 degree bends to go around the bellhousing/clutch. I sweated 5/8 copper pipe for the bends and used 5/8 heater hose to replace mine.

On the US side, it's usually not too difficult. It involves an inspection and the title will normally be marked "salvage." I don't know about BC. Check with your motor vehicle department. And one good reason not to hijack threads is that you're likely to get more replies to what you're looking for if you start your own thread.

Here's the deal: what you really need to do is to get #1 firing on the compression stroke. So the first thing you need to do is find the compression stroke. Pull the #1 plug (right front of the engine, (passenger side front)). Put your finger in the hole and turn the crank (by hand, with a ratchet). As you approach TDC on the compression stroke, you'll feel pressure build up in the cylinder. On the exhaust stroke, there's no pressure. OK, so now stop at the specified timing (depending on which engine, probably either 8 or 20 degrees BTDC). Now you just need to install the distributor. #1 is normally closest to the left wheel well, but it doesn't really matter. You need to make a mark on the base of the distributor near the top with a pencil directly below where the #1 wire will be. Now install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the mark you made. Install the rest of the wires and you should fire right up.

After reading your other post, it looks like you're looking for a way to lift your Soob without buying a kit. I think you need to start a new post that asks that question.

And if you do get them off and decide to reuse them (some folks just toss them, but I like having them), I'd put some anti-seize on the bolt threads before you put the front cover back on.

Does yours have AC or vent and bilevel? I've got a car I'm using for parts. I'll try to get a look at it before the weekend to see what condition the pushbuttons are in.

maybe you're looking for www.ozified.com

If you've got the stock carb, it's passively heated by engine coolant. You don't really need the heat riser pipe, but it might help the engine warm up a little quicker.

Sorry, you're too far away for me to help. But if you have basic mechanical knowledge, it's really not a tough job. If you can find someone to help you, that's great, but it's also a good place to learn. Good luck.

Checker shows one on their website for around $65. www.partsamerica.com

One of each

Sounds like EGR valve to me. You can block it off and see.

Not sure about the hub, but the rotor isn't the same/

We just got our first good snow in the Salt Lake area. It sure is nice to have an old Soob to keep you safe on the roads and to play with you off road.

Loose intake manifold bolts could definitely be the culprit. Hope it's gone when you test drive it.

The turbo heads actually suffer more than the block from abuse. Your MPFI manifold won't bolt to the NA heads. Just something to consider, although I have a carbed EA82 I'm getting ready to put a turbo on.