Subarian

If the smoke is coming out of the engine bay, it's probably coming from oil leaking out of the pump (they have that habit) or maybe the crank seal or a cam seal. I'd look at the pump first. The good news is that the parts to reseal it are cheap, and you will probably find it brings your oil pressure up, too. The bad news is that you have to remove the timing belts to reseal it. If the oil is coming out the tailpipe, it's going to be valve guides or piston rings. Do you know which cylinder is quitting on you? You can check by pulling the plug wires one at a time while it's idling. You should notice a difference in how the engine runs. When you pull one and there's no difference, that's your dead cylinder. Just be careful not to ground yourself and get too close to the spark.

Or just run with the GPS on your dash. My speedo sticks, it's one of my future projects, but I've learned what my RPMs are in the speed ranges I usually stay in.

And if you do get it to turn, turn it plenty by hand before you try to fire it up. Make sure you have some oil on the cylinder walls.

Ouch!!!

The heater motor may be failing, or it could be the connection. Does it occur at all fan speeds, or only certain speeds? If it only occurs at low or medium speed, but it works fine at high speed, it's probably the resistor element. As for the window seal, you might be able to find it at a dealer, but a lot of our parts come from junkyards or donor cars.

I think the stock one is 60 amps. There are people here on the board who have used a GM 100 amp alternator with very little modification.

Would the Cometic HG be good for the turbo and NA both?

Daniel, Most of what you list consists primarily of labor costs. The body work is almost entirely labor, the assembly and installation of your AC is entirely labor (except refrigerant costs), and if you're not doing the work yourself, the tuning and water hoses will mostly be labor. So the price is going to be very dependent on what labor costs in your area. For reference you can go to http://www.autozone.com to see what prices are in the US. Good luck. Shalom David

Hank, you asked what's the worst that could happen. The gears could shear some teeth, which could then get jammed in the diff and lock it up tight. If you're going down the road, that could be a problem. If you're miles from anywhere, it could also be a problem. And yes, the rear diff is turning even when you're in 2wd.

The center line of the rotor should point to the center of the electrode.

Sure, you can put running lights on anything. You could find something at your local auto parts or even WalMart, but if you want a better selection, find a supplier who sells lights for tractor-trailors.

You'll have a lot of fun with it. I have an 86 that sounds about like yours, d/r, man. windows, carbed, and I've really enjoyed it. Congratulations.

You can also do it without removing the valve covers. Pull the #1 plug and put your finger in the spark plug hole. Feel for compression - the air will push your finger out on the compression stroke, but not the exhaust stroke. As you're coming up to TDC on the compression stroke, stop at 8 degrees BTDC. And what I meant in the earlier post about checking the timing belts is that they're often off by a tooth, which is 10 degrees in valve timing. That's a significant error.

Should take the same jets and everything else. Contact Redline Weber and they can give you specs. I'd check around for prices, though. They tend to be a little pricey. http://www.redlineweber.com

Yeah, the dual range is distinguished by the shift lever. The pushbutton is 4hi only.

The clutch surface is made of friction material similar to brake pads. When you push in the clutch, the face of the pressure plate is moved away from the clutch face. I've never heard of a clutch rusting to a pressure plate, although I guess it's theoretically possible. Try moving the clutch fork manually. It's on the top of the transmission, straight back from the carb or throttle body and right behind the opening for timing your engine.

THe one on the right looks like it's from a NA 1.8. The turbo pistons are dished to lower compression. Without the valve reliefs cut into the face of the piston, I think you'd be making your non-interference engine into an interference engine, if it ran at all. I don't think that's the right piston.

That is absolutely beautiful. It's really smooth - I'll bet you get better flow. It's a shame most of it won't be visible once it's installed.

Funny story time. I spotted a large puddle where a ditch had once been by my house several years ago. It was like 100 feet long and too hard to resist. I knew they had put in drainage pipe, so I figured I'd have some fun. I took one high-speed run through, with huge rooster tails. I would have been fine if I had turned left at the end. Turning right took me right into a part of the ditch that hadn't been filled in (which I couldn't see because it was under water). I ended up walking home and borrowing my wife's van to pull it out. So I wouldn't say it's impossible to get them stuck - just hard.

It was actually made by Holley under license from Weber. It uses the same adapter plate as the 32/36 DGEV/DGAV.

If it's like my 86, the anti-backfire valve is on the passenger side in front of the wheel well, in the same location as the air cleaner housing on FI Soobs. I don't know if they work the same way as the ones on the carbs.

OK, the place I got my rebuild kit was worldpac worldwide. It was considerably cheaper than Redline's price. I was just searching for it on the web, and it appears it's a subsidiary of redline or vice versa. Anyway, I searched for Weber in google and called two or three places.

You can also test to see if it's not getting fuel by pouring a little bit through the throttle body and then trying to start it. You can use gas, or spray some carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner. I don't recommend starting fluid, as it's hard on engines.

I'd double-check the timing belts.

I agree, definitely new bearings. Just out of curiosity, where did you get a new block?