Subarian

By the way, it's really hard to get a Subaru stuck.

A limited slip was an option in the rear differential. It's found mostly on the turbo cars, which have a different gear ratio (3.7:1 as opposed to 3.9:1 in non-turbo) but you can change out the ring gear. Some guys have welded their ring gears to make a locked differential, but then you have to remove one of the axle shafts to drive it on the road.

I don't think they made the EA 81 after 84 or 85, at least not in US Subarus.

bad news. If it's really a DFAV, the bell crank is on the opposite side from the DGEV, which means more fabbing for your install. The DGEV/DGAV have the bellcrank on the right side (as it sits on the engine) and the DFEV/DFAV is a mirror image. The one with E in it is electric choke and the A is water choke.

check out www.redlineweber.com They've got some online tech manuals. I can't remember the name of the place, but I just got a rebuild kit for $27 shipping included. If you have a parts place around that specializes in VW bugs, they can probably hook you up, too. I'll look at my receipt when I get home and get you the name of the place.

Analog (manual). It's simpler, clearer, and far less prone to problems.

The Army uses them to maintain batteries on equipment that tends to sit for a long time. One caveat is that they're kind of fragile.

It's been a while since I did this swap, but as I remember there wasn't much more to it than the shifter for the d/r.

Full-time 4wd and all-wheel drive have a differential or viscous coupling between the front and rear, so that all the wheels are able to turn at different speeds. Your selectable 4WD doesn't have a center differential. You can't weld anything to make it work as a full time 4wd. You could swap in a drivetrain from a car that has full-time 4wd, but you really don't need to. The Subaru handles fine with 2wd on dry roads, and it's a blast with 4wd in snow or off-road.

So how much power can you put into a EA82 drivetrain before it breaks?

Sorry to hear about your car. I hope you get it on the road again quickly. I'm glad no one was hurt. Seat belts work.

I wrecked my car a week and a half ago. My new tires didn't stick in the rain as well as my old ones did. My wife told me she thought it might be time for me to get something new. I've had this car for 150,000 of its 250,000 miles, and I'm rather fond of it. It was my first of seven subarus and I still have it. I found a donor and had it back on the road within a week. Good luck to you.

I had a shop repair a set of turbo heads. It was kind of pricey, but they did a good job. It was a shop out of Alabama, but I don't remember the name. Sorry if I discouraged you, man. I really didn't mean to.

My wife keeps telling me I deserve a nicer car. I tell her this IS my nicer car. I just need to install the turbo and paint it.

It's an easy fix. First you need to determine where TDC is on the compression stroke. To do that, turn the crank with the #1 spark plug removed (you can remove them all to make it easier to turn). Put a finger into the #1 plug hole and feel for the compression as you near TDC (as indicated on the flywheel). On the compression stroke, stop at 8 degrees BTDC, which is about where your timing should be. Make a mark on the side of the distributor housing with a pencil below the #1 plugh wire. Take the cap off and note where the rotor on the distributor is pointing. It should be pointing right at the #1 plug wire. If it's not, rotate the distributor until it is. This should be close enough to get you running, and then you can time it with a light.

A couple of thoughts for you: First, welcome to the wonderful world of Subaru. You'll have a lot of fun here. As far as finding a good engine in a junkyard, it's kind of a crapshoot. You can do a compression test and a leakdown test, look at the condition of the oil and the spark plugs, but beyond that there's not a lot. Another alternative is a donor car, one that's running but has other issues, such as body damage. You could also go for a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) engine, engines that are imported with fairly low mileage (generally 30- 50K) and sell for about the price of a JY engine. I wouldn't really recommend rebuilding a Subaru engine if you're limited on funds. Parts tend to be pretty expensive, and it's usually cheaper to replace one than to rebuild it. Even if you just want to re-ring it, you'd need a complete gasket set, and if you're going to do the rings you might as well do the bearings. While you've got the engine out is a really good time to look at the clutch, too.

I use a long pry bar against the flywheel teeth to hold it in place. I've heard of people putting the wrench on the bolt and then bumping the starter, but I've never done it myself. If you decide to try it, I'd pull the coil wire first.

I would look at your throttle return spring. If you don't have a good spring on there, the engine vacuum can keep the throttle plate open longer.

Oil loss probably won't be much more than what you're already leaking. The cam towers and valve covers are designed to allow oil to drain back into the pan.

I agree, nothing to worry about as long as it doesn't slip with the engine running.

Are you sure you need an insurance binder for each state? For those of us that live here, our insurance binders are good in any state.

The hanger idea is a good one. I ran one of my Subarus for a couple of years with a coat hanger loop just inside the grill.

Just for information purposes, the reason you don't run on dry pavement in 4wd is that there's no center differential, which means that the front and rear tires theoretically have to run at the same speed. You'll notice if you turn while you've got it in 4wd that the rear wheels tend to push the front, because the fronts are turning at a different rate- a shorter turning radius for the fronts means fewer revolutions over a given distance.

1. it sounds like the rings. Could possibly be valve seals, but those usually don't get better when the engine warms up. 2. A used engine is going to be cheaper than rebuilding yours. 3. I'm not familiar with the EA81 CV joints, but on the EA82 joints you just need a drift and a hammer.

It looks like the crack starts between the seats and goes down into both runners. I really wouldn't use this head. You could definitely find something better in the junkyard.