Subarian

I just bought a rebuild kit from Wildpac for 27 with the shipping. Mine has an electric choke- it's a lot easier to work with, but the water choke should be OK, if you don't want to change it.

Is the trans lining up with the engine? Try raising or lowering the trans a little bit. The input shaft will go into the clutch disk if it's a little crooked, but it has to be almost exact for the tip to go into the pilot bearing.

My favorite is when you get out of the car too quickly and hang yourself.

It's an abomination manufacturers used as an interim to passive passenger restraints. The shoulder belt is separate from the lap belt. It's anchored on the inboard side of the seat. There is a track along the door that runs roughly from above where the mirror mounts to the back of the door. When the door is closed, a motor runs the belt from its forward position to the rear. You're lucky you don't have them. It's the main reason I dumped the 91 rather than the 86.

Not too difficult at all. Just keep the oil up- some of these EA82s have a tendency to leak a little bit.

Did you check the pilot bearing? If it's not the right one, that might be your problem.

Once you get the oil leak fixed, you might notice less TOD, but it probably won't go away. Run one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it, and run it at high RPMs for a while. That usually gets rid of it. By the way, even though it's called the Tick Of Death, I've seen Subarus last a long, long time with it. I had a friend who mentioned he had a loud tick in his Subaru, and it had been there for a long time. I told him the same thing as above, and his car was healed.

Here's a formula for determining the torque. If you can figure it out, you're a better engineer than I am. I don't think Subaru has published any torque specs for body bolts. Most manufacturers don't, because the torque on those parts just isn't as critical as it is, for example, in an engine. If you just tighten it really tight, I think you'll be fine.

At the rate the oil is disappearing, I'd definitely notice any smoke, especially since I"m watching for it. I don't think it's the PCV, since I"ve inspected it and there's not a lot of oil in the lines. Any other ideas?

The electronic ignition will work down to about 8.5 volts. I'd say you definitely need an alternator.

Here's a strange one I haven't figured out yet. I'm going through a quart of oil about every 500 miles. There's no drips on the driveway, no obvious leaks (strange for an EA82) and no smoke, even under hard acceleration. The tailpipe has no more than normal soot, and no oil residue. Any ideas I might be overlooking?

If a manufacturer can certify to the EPA that they'll be able to pass NOx emissions for 100,000 miles, they don't have to have the EGR. Late-model Chevys don't have them for that reason.

Your EGR Valve looks something like this. Your car does have one. The easy way to ditch it is to cut a piece of metal from a tin can and block the exhaust port in the valve. That way, if you have to pass a visual emissions inspection, it won't be a problem.

I'd check the oil pump for the leak. Even with the TOD, you should get better than 19 mpg. Swapping out the trans isn't too hard. If you are fairly handy with a wrench, you can do it in a day or less.

I remember that the splines on the transmission input shaft are different on the turbo/non-turbo, but I don't remember the count. Someone here probably does, or your friendly neighborhood parts guy might have the info.

Since you've got an O2 sensor in the car, you can use it to check the carb manually to see if it's running too rich. All you need to do is to run a jumper into the interior of your car and connect to the positive lead of a voltmeter. Connect the negative to a good ground. When the engine is running, you should read 0.47 volts. Higher means too rich, lower means too lean. Check the reading at various speeds and RPMs. I used this method to set up the jets on my 32/36, and it works great.

I finally got around to blocking off my EGR valve. That smoothed out the idle considerably, which allowed me to tune my 32/36 Weber correctly, which gave me a much smoother ride, better acceleration, and took my mileage from 24 to a little over 27 MPG. All for the cost of a used tin can...

Tom's right. That hose doesn't go to the carb. If you installed a Weber, you should have blocked off the water passage to the Hitachi carb. You would know really quickly if you didn't.

You should be able to swap out the transmission with ease. My 86 is carbureted. If it's got FI you might have to swap the ECM, too. I'm not sure about that.

Now that you mention it.... My 74 Vega had a carb on it that looked a lot like my 32/36. I wonder if it was a Weber wearing a different badge.

It takes a licking and keeps on ticking...

The concern with the cat is that diesel has traditionally had a high sulfer content, which can clog the convertor over time. It's really unlikely the engine managed to run long enough to put out enough sulfur to harm the convertor.

You don't really need a breather in there. You can T directly to the PCV valve. To make it a little easier, I used 90 degree sprinkler elbows just above the valve covers. Make sure you use fuel/evap hose. Heater hose will just get soft and gooey.

This is another response from gravilboy to a question someone asked about differentiating between 2wd and 4wd: My view of a message board such as this is that its purpose is to allow people to collaborate on a hobby/passion they have in common. Demeaning others because they don't know something we think we do is not in the spirit of cooperation and does not add anything positive to this very fine and useful message board.

The question is, why is your Weber hesitating? It would probably be cheaper and easier to fix that than to replace your carb. I just got a carb kit for my 32/36 for about $18 plus shipping.