Subarian

Hmm... my carbed 86 doesn't have a computer. What about your catalytic convertor? Try unbolting the exhaust right in front of the convertor and see how it runs.

That's great. There's nothing quite like driving it after you build it yourself.

The non-turbo gear ratio is 3.9:1 and the turbo is 3.7:1. You have to match the trans, but you can use a turbo differential in a non-turbo and vice versa if you swap out the ring gear. Lots of articles here on the board on how to do it.

No, the timing marks are lines, and they have numbers at 0, 10, and 20.

yes, they are the same. No, I wouldn't reuse them. For about $45 you get new belts and peace of mind.

That's a good point. You can save yourself a lot of trouble by using dielectric on any electrical connection. I even use it when I splice wires with solderless terminals- I just put a little inside the terminal before I insert the wires.

The screws are ridiculously soft metal, so be careful with them. If you can get a pair of vice grips on the head, you can usually break them loose with the vice grips and then back them out with a screwdriver. If your needle valve seat won't come out with a screwdriver that spans the seat, I suppose you could use an EZout to get it out, but don't forget you're working with soft brass.

Sequence is also important. You should start with the brake farthest from the MC and work toward the closest. Don't forget to bleed your hillholder, if you have one.

I've had a couple of them go over 250,000 miles. The only thing I've done is periodically reseal the pump. My current EA82 carbed has 253,000 miles and still puts out 10-15 at idle and 45-50 at speed on a warm engine.

I can send a pic tonight, but I can describe it to you now. I took an air box off of a fuel injected subaru, made a bonnet out of sheet aluminum for my carb (mine's a Weber 32/36) and ran flexible metal dryer duct between them. I originally had used NAPA duct hose, but it kept disintegrating.

The inboard end of the shaft goes onto a stub that comes out of the transmission. The stub is sealed with a conventional seal that is lubed by gear oil from the trans. I wouldn't spray anything in there unless you want to replace the trans seals.

Almost. People who aren't familiar with the subaru engine need to be aware that the block is aluminum with pressed-in liners. No overbore is possible. Piston selection is limited, as is cam selection. If you just want to get more miles out of it, I would tear it down, inspect the block, crank, and pistons, and if the block is good, I would put in new bearings, new rings, have the valves ground, and, of course, replace all gaskets. You can get undersize bearings for the crank, but I think .010 under is the limit. Check with your parts supplier before you begin. Of course, before you begin tearing into the engine, you might want to make sure you're getting everything out of it you can. Check the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, etc. and make sure you really need to tear the engine down.

If most of your harness is just hanging, that may be a big part of your problem. The 1.8 isn't a racer motor, but you shouldn't have any problem getting 65 mph out of it on regular gas. Mine is a tired old carbed 1.8 (253,000 miles) and it does 75 fine except for steep grades. Of course, it does 0-60 in about 7.5 (minutes) but that's another story. Get a service manual and find out what all those things that are disconnected are supposed to do. Then do a good tuneup, and you should notice a lot more power.

OR.... when your heater hose split, you may have gotten moisture in the distributor.

If you're planning on resealing the engine or doing other work, it's definitely easiest to remove the engine to get at the clutch. I would also replace the clutch disk and surface the flywheel while you're there. If you don't want to mess with your injection and wiring and vacuum lines and such, it still might be easier to drop the transmission.

Regardless of the engine or distributor, this is the way to set up initial timing: Remove the #1 spark plug. You can remove all the plugs to make it easier to turn the engine if you want. Now rotate the engine by hand (wrench on the crankshaft) until you approach your initial timing (8 or 20 degrees, depending on the engine). The engine will turn twice for every revolution of the distributor. You need to be on the compression stroke to set the timing, so put a finger in the #1 spark plug hole and feel for the compression as you approach TDC. When you're on the compression stroke, stop at whatever you determined your initial timing to be. Now look at your distributor and determine which is the #1 plug wire. On the EA82, it's usually closest to the driver's side wheel well, but it doesn't really matter. Make a mark in pencil on the distributor housing just below where the #1 wire is. Remove the cap and install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the mark you made. Now install the cap and the rest of the wires and start it up. Then you can time it with a light.

If you're going to go with a 5 speed, I'd make sure you get the dual range. It's a lot nicer to have that extra option.

You might want to change the filter. Gunk and water tends to build up in there, and when it's really cold it gets thick and gas can't flow through it. I just changed mine and got rid of my cold-temp problems.

That sounds like a long day! Have fun with it.

The hard part of doing it in 0 degrees (OK, mine I did at about 4 degrees), besides the frostbite, is that the lines get hard when it gets that cold. One end just did not want to come off the barb on the filter, and it took several minutes of fighting it to get it off.

IF you go with the split boots, I would check them every week or so. They don't tend to last, at least not ones that I've seen.

That is as nice as any I've seen. Great score!

It sounds like the throwout bearing is bad, but even with a bad throwout, you should be able to get in gear, unless the clutch is gone or the throwout has worn through the spring fingers on the pressure plate. I'm afraid at this point you're going to have to tear into your clutch and see what's happening.

Here's a really easy way. Fill the hole with grease, and use a drift or a dowel that fits tight. Hammer the drift, and the grease will force the pilot bearing out.

Umm... you don't want the H6. Just tell me where it is, and I'll take care of it. Seriously, it's not going to be too much different than working on your H4.