Subarian

2.5 quarts in 1000 miles seems kind of high for me. When I rebuild engines, depending on whether I use iron, chrome, or moly rings, I expect half a quart to a quart of consumption in the first 1000. The oil pressure is weird, too. Usually you'll have the highest pressure shortly (less than 30 seconds) after startup on a cold engine. Where is he seeing the bubbles in the oil? Has it changed color any? As far as the lifters, were rebuilt lifters used, or were the old ones reused? If he got a long block, I'd see what kind of warranty they offer. He should definitely make the rebuilder aware of the problems.

If it's the throwout bearing, you're going to have to pull the engine or trans to replace it. It sits on the transmission input shaft at the end of the clutch fork, and pushes on the pressure plate springs to release pressure when you shift. If you're going that far, you might just want to replace the clutch, too, depending on its condition. I wouldn't use a junkyard part, because it's too much work getting to the TO bearing. As for what will happen if you continue to drive it, first of all, it's going to gradually get louder. Eventually, it might wear through the fingers on the pressure plate, which means your clutch would stop working. So either way you're eventually going to have to take care of it.

Where is it coming from? Is it only when you push in the clutch? If so, I would think of the throw-out bearing first.

Mine fit in the stock location with very little work. I had to change the bracket a little bit and one of the fuel lines, and also the electrical connector. Fuel delivery is comparable to the stock pump. Also replace the fuel filter at the same time.

I'm not aware of a speed sensor on any of the EA series cars. Which ones had them?

The EA82T seems the only way to go if you don't want to do a lot of fabrication or pay to have someone else do it. With anything else, you need to do one or both - more fabrication means less cost, but you're still going to have to pay to get more. After having put over 250,000 on my carbed EA82, I'm getting ready to build a EA82T. I don't plan to put a lot of money into it. I got a turbo wagon the same year as mine with slipped timing belts, so the motor, ecm, wiring harness, turbo, exhaust (it's new), etc. all cost me $300.

It's just a universal pump. It will fit any car that's carbureted and has an inline electric fuel pump or that's converted to use an electric pump. Here's a link to the part on partsamerica.com: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=MST&mfrpartnumber=E8016S&parttype=52&ptset=A If you follow the link, there's a link on the part detail that lists all the cars the pump fits.

I have a universal-type inline electric fuel pump on mine. You just need to make sure the fuel pump is for a carbureted vehicle, as fuel injected pumps put out much higher pressure and will make your carburetor flood.

I have two yellows to - and black and white to +.

It should be a straight shot from underneath, unless the crossmember has been bent.

My carbed 86 gets about 27 average combined. I'm running stock tires, but running 4th with your tires should be comparable to running overdrive with the stock. 17 sounds way too low. Your ignition timing is retarded a little- it should be 8 BTDC for the carbed engine, and you can advance it a couple of degrees for more power. I would do a compression test. If both cylinders on the passenger side are low but the driver's side is good, that's a good indication of a timing belt problem.

So, Snowman, did you retorque? And how much of a pain was it? I've built a lot of engines, Chevy, Olds, Ford, Toyota, and Subaru, and I've never retorqued. I've never had a HG fail, even on some fairly built (Olds and Chevy) engines. But I've never built a turbo or diesel engine, so those might need to be retorqued. I guess the bottom line is that if it gives you peace of mind, it might be worth the effort.

They were definitely available on the GLs. My carbed 86 came with one. I don't know if they would fit your hatch, but if they do, they're not too uncommon in junkyards.

It definitely doesn't work better WITH it. The EGR was designed to reduce NOx emissions by introducing an inert gas (exhaust) at higher engine temperatures, where oxides of nitrogen form (above 3,000 degrees farenheit). The problem is that the Subaru engines (exclusive of turbos) don't generally reach the internal temps needed to formulate NOx (but catalytic convertors ironically do), but they're there to appease the EPA. The valves get crusty with exhaust products and then leak, and you have a non-combustible gas going into the cylinder when you're trying to idle or when you need to produce power.

A head gasket leak doesn't have to display any of the other symptoms you mentioned, although any of them can be symptoms. If the leak is only between the cylinder and the water jacket, it can pressurize the system without any other symptoms being present. Normally, the engine will run hotter, not cooler, but it could be that your sending unit doesn't have enough coolant running past it to get a good reading. If you want to be sure, you can get a combustion gas leak detector. They look like this and cost about $30. You can have a shop do the same thing for you, but they'll probably charge you at least as much.

tire check and also check alignment. Is it hard to get into or out of 4wd?

I would block off the EGR and see what that does for you. It's not hard to do. You can cut a piece of a soup can to fit under the EGR valve fitting and see if it takes care of your problem. Most cars have no problem passing emissions without the EGR.

From your post, it sounds like you've done a weber 32/36 conversion. In any case, it sounds like you may still be too lean on the primary, especially considering that it goes away above 3500 rpm. If you do have the weber, did you change the idle jet? That's the one that does most of the work on the lower end. Aside from that, it sounds like you've done all the right things.

I just googled automotive appraisal and it came up with a ton of them. It looks like they charge 50 to 75 bucks. The reason I know about them is a friend who had a classic mustang. The blue book said it was worth about 4000, but the appraisal said 12000.

There's no filter. I'd find a new mechanic. Both Turbone and azsubaru are right. It also helps if you're parked with the nose of the car uphill while you burp the air out of the system.

It sounds like it, but if you want to be sure, you can get a combustion gas tester. It runs about 25 or 30 dollars and it's a tube you fill with a blue liquid and place over the radiator opening while the engine is running. If the gases are from combustion, the fluid will turn yellow.

Look how clean that was underneath!

That's really sad. Your car was beautiful. What you need to do is to find a vehicle appraiser, not an insurance adjuster. Appraisers determine the value of cars that don't fit into the kbb mold. They can probably help you come up with a decent value.

A good machine shop can even spray weld a crank to add material to a journal if one of them is overly worn.

You might be able to drill it out and tap it.