Subarian

Thanks. I'm actually looking both for an EA82 and an EA82T.

The nice thing about using the quarters is that it's reversible if you decide for some unimaginable reason you want to open it back up. I used quarters and cut the pipes right at the flange.

Yes you can, if the height from the base of the pump to the end of the shaft is the same. There's about a 5mm difference in them, and the belts won't line up. If the new pump is shorter, you can shim it out, but if it's longer, you're out of luck.

But if it's the tranny that was switched out, he needs to know how to ID the gear ratio in the tranny. I think it's done by the spline count on the axle shafts, but I'm not sure which is which.

Who's got a good line on parts like pistons, oil pump, rings, gaskets, etc?

A sleeper, by definition, isn't obvious. This one is waaayyy too obvious to be a sleeper.

I got a rebuilt one from Autozone for around $55. The only problem was that it had an extra female fitting and finding the right size plug for it was a pain.

I have a Pioneer Supertuner with CD in a generic adaptor. It fits well and looks decent. No problem with rattling or shaking.

Take a look at my new Soob. It's an 86 with d/r 5 speed. The previous owner says the engine's seized, but I just happen to have a turbo motor I was planning on buliding anyway. Not bad for a hundred bucks.

The auto parts store should also be able to determine if it's fuel injected from the VIN.

My sleeper wasn't a Subaru. It was an 81 Buick Estate Wagon diesel (full size GM wagon, power everything). The diesel came out, and in went an Olds 455, 850CFM Quadrajet, 2.5 inch dual exhaust, and 3.73 posi rear end. It made a few Mustang and Camaro owners turn red. The funniest thing about it is that my wife drove it for almost two years, never understanding what I liked about the car. One day she came home with a great big grin on her face. Some guy in a 4wd truck had tried to pass her on the right where 4 lanes narrowed down to 2. She floored it for the first time since I'd built it. She had a whole new appreciation for my car. The down side was that I only got about 9 mpg.

The axle probably isn't stripped; it's a lot more durable than the hub. When you install the new hub, check the cone washer for a ridge. If you find one, file it down and it will be fine. And make sure you have enough torque on it.

It's a press fit. You need to go to the auto parts store and get a steering wheel puller. It uses two bolts to bolt onto the wheel hub and the center goes onto the end of the steering shaft. When you tighten the center bolt, it pops the wheel off.You can buy one or rent one.

86 carbed, Weber, d/r 5spd, 26.5 mpg average.

Use hose marked fuel/pcv. It will last much longer.

Where would the extra fuel come from?

I got a really nice set of mats from Costco. Really thick carpet, good fit, and they cost me less than $30 for a set of four.

They look kind of like the old Mustang wheels on the original turbo Mustang, around 77 or so.

You need a 4-wheel alignment from an alignment shop that knows subarus. Tire stores won't get it right, in my experience.

The waste gate and the BPV or BOV have different functions. The waste gate limits boost by allowing exhaust gases to bypass the turbine upon reaching a predetermined boost level (about 7.5 PSI on the EA82T). You can increase boost by installing a boost controller that will open the waste gate at higher boost pressure. The bypass valve allows excess boost in the intake to bleed off momentarily when the throttle plate is shut, thereby saving wear on the turbo and theoretically allowing the turbo to spool up faster.

The boot keeps dirt away from the seal, but you'd probably find most older Subarus on the road have torn boots. You can get a rebuild kit for less than $10 at Autozone. It's not hard to install.

For future reference, it should be 1/8 female pipe thread.

Bienvenidos. The Weber (I'm assuming you're talking about the 32/36 DGEV conversion) is less expensive and just as economical on fuel. You'll probably pick up a little extra power, as well, but it's not going to compare to the ER27, which makes me a little jealous.

Those threads are pretty hefty. I doubt you did any damage. If the piston turns in OK, you should be fine.

In a COP (coil-on-plug) wasted spark system, each plug has its own coil. The coils are fired in pairs, so that each cylinder fires on the compression and the exhaust stroke. The plug firing on the exhaust stroke is the wasted spark.