Subarian

Subaru wheels use a 4X140 lug pattern, whether 2 or 4 wheel drive. You have two options to convert to 6 lug wheels: You can redrill the wheels to fit the 4 lugs on the subaru, or you can redrill the hubs to fit the wheels.

It will work, but your rear end ratio is different. The turbo trans and differential have a 3.7:1 ratio and the non-turbo is 3.9:1. You would need to change the rear differential to match.

Is the driveshaft with the full-time 4wd the same length as with a non full-time 4wd?

I can't remember who it was, but it was Down Under, and he had the head machined to accept the distributor. I believe he was also running LPG. The EJ isn't a COP like the newer Fords; it's got a coil pack like some of the Fords did a few years back.

The float and bowl are in the carburetor. You'll have to dissasemble the carb by taking the top part off. Clean the bowl and replace the needle and seat. You might need to replace the float; if it's plastic and it's absorbed gas, it can't really be fixed. You can dry it out in an oven, but it will reabsorb gas pretty quickly.

The only other 4 lug wheels are off of Puegots. Subaru uses a 4X140 bolt pattern, which is really unusual. You can also convert your hubs to 6X140 pattern, which will allow you to use Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, and Chevy rims.

The GLs mostly had 4wd, with the exception of some turbo wagons that had the full-time 4wd. Both are very capable off-road. On dry pavement, the part-time 4wd will bind in 4wd, as there is no center differential. The center differential on the full-time 4wd can be locked for extra traction off-road or in the snow. Lifts are becoming more common, and there are several board members who manufacture them. If you're serious about going off-road, you'll probably want to convert your 4-lug wheels to 6-lug wheels, which isn't too difficult. Then you can run 14 or 15 inch wheels from nissan, mazda, toyota, etc.

I have the two cleanest, shiniest headlamp assemblies I've seen in a Subaru, and I've used the Xtravisions for several years, and I've aimed them. Not that I don't appreciate the suggestions; I do. But I notice that when I'm on the freeway it seems I cast a shadow when other cars come up behind. Maybe some aftermarket driving lights.

Just like everyone else with a GL/Loyale I suffer from poor lighting. I'm thinking about swapping in a 4-headlight system from a DL wagon. Anyone have any comparison info on lighting? An added advantage would be that a rock through the headlight would cost $5 or so.

OK, so let's be clear. When you say it doesn't turn over, do you mean that the engine doesn't crank, or that it doesn't fire? Usually when someone says it doesn't turn over they mean it won't crank, but if it's sounding like the firing order is wrong, it must be turning over. If the engine ran after the timing belts were replaced, that's one thing, But if it hasn't, I would check to make sure they were installed properly. I bought a GL wagon once for $100 dollars because the shop that replaced the timing belts told the owner the engine was shot, when they just didn't know how to install them.

I went to pick and pull yesterday and saw an 89 RX there. The body wasn't in bad condition. It was kind of sad to see. But it was nice enough to donate its 5spd d/r full-time 4wd and rear LSD. $160. There's a turbo wagon there with the same setup if anyone's interested. Pick-n-Pull in West Valley. If you want, I can even tell you where to locate the car.

Still, it would be helpful to have more specifics on the problem. If it was running before you changed the plugs, I'd double-check the firing order. If it wasn't running, I'd look at the timing belts.

I've had the most success with Marvel Mystery Oil. Put a quart in, and run the engine at high RPMs. If that doesn't break them loose, it's unlikely anything will.

EA82 is the normally aspirated 1.8 liter overhead cam in your loyale. EA82T is the turbocharged version. EA81T is the turbocharged version of the earlier 1.8 overhead valve engine. EJ22 is the 2.2 liter engine from newer subarus like legacy.

I don't know the specific bores on those two carbs, but it's not uncommon to lose some performance off idle when you go with a one barrel to two barrel (or a two barrel to a four barrel). The reason is that the primary in the two barrel is smaller than the one barrel, so until the secondary opens up, you're actually running a smaller carb than with the one barrel. You might want to make sure the accelerator pump is working. Usually you'll experience some hesitation if it's not.

I might ditch the second turbo, if it turns out to be too much of an installation headache. But I have to try.... BTW, I intend to document every step of the process, and when it's done I'll publish it.

Here's the lucky part- my wife told me I should go ahead and bid on it. She's happy for me to have it.

Has anyone ever done this? I know the EJ20T has been done, but what about a twin turbo? Any advice on how to proceed? I know the left side turbo is going to be hard to clear, but I guess I'll just have to figure it out, unless somone has some experience.

Five speeds can be dual range or pushbutton. If you have a lever next to the driver's seat to shift into 4wd, it's a dual range. If you have a pushbutton on the shift knob, it's not.

There's a coolant passage in the intake. It sounds like you just need to replace the intake gaskets.

Bump.

I'm looking forward to the fun of re-engineering the car. It's going to be an adventure.

Brake parts cleaner will soften it up a little.

Ebay - $911. Tomorrow I go to pick up my RX full-time 4wd. It's all going into this:

Look what I just bought: Yes, you see TWO turbos there.