Subarian

The easiest way is to take it off the car, use a long bar to break up the matrix (it's ceramic) and shake it out. Replace and fire up.

SOME phase I 2.5l engines have head gasket problems, not all. If the previous owner was smart, he replaced the phase I with a phase 2. It sounds to me like someone has an axe to grind.

I would plumb the return line. I originally had mine capped off, but pressure would build in the tank on hot days, and sometimes I would get leaks and other times I'd just have to live with a strong gas smell. There's a plug on the other side of the fuel inlet on the Weber. You can install a barbed fitting there for the return line. I used two elbows so that the barb is pointing to the back of the carb; that way the return line lies right next to the fuel line.

I agree with Numbchux. Unless you're just doing to lift to make your car look cool, you'll want the d/r trans. I'd say it's far more important for offroading than a lift is. I've taken my non-lifted wagon a lot of places off road I couldn't have gotten to without the d/r.

15 PSI is OK if it's at idle. It should increase as engine speed increases, to roughly 10 PSI per 1000 RPM.

Last night I was looking at a roll call thread for lifted wagons in the off-road forum, and I happened to find McBrat's lifted red GL wagon (thanks, McB), which is a lot like one of my latest Subarus, waiting for me to find the right EJ22 to replace the seized EA82. My wife was looking over my shoulder, and she said, "I think you should do that to yours." I've actually been thinking about it for a while. One question I have is handling on the road. I would want to lift it between 2 and 4 inches and fit tires that won't require a sawzall or sledgehammer to get under there. So, for those of you who have lifted your wagons, how has it affected things like ride, cornering, etc? Thanks.

Sounds like a choke that's stuck. Next time, take off the air cleaner cover and prop the choke open (you can stick a screwdriver in there) and see if it fires right up.

I've always used 10% as a rule of thumb when comparing compression between cylinders. More than that, and it's time to start looking for solutions. I've never tried the seafoam in the intake route, but it might clean up your valves and seats enough to make a difference. If not, you're not out a lot of money.

There's a good chance the pins in the tumbler are worn. There's not a lot you can do about that without a locksmith.

Since it's a 93, it should have about 20 degrees of initial advance (20 degrees BTDC). Find the compression stroke by removing the #1 plug (right front, closest to air cleaner) and plugging the hole with your finger while you turn the engine by hand with a wrench on the crank bolt. You will feel pressure on the compression stroke as it approaches TDC. Stop at 20 BTDC. Now make a mark on the distributor housing that corresponds to the position of the #1 wire on the cap. Remove the cap and install the distributor so the rotor points at the mark you just made. Now replace the cap and the #1 plug and it should fire right up. Also make sure that when your flywheel timing mark for the belt (the center of the three hash marks) is lined up that one of the timing marks on the cams is up and the other is down. Some of the manuals out there have the procedure wrong.

1. It could be something in the fan. Running it at high speed might clear it out. 2. The fan could have a cracked squirrel cage or have lost a balance weight. In either of those cases, it would need to be replaced.

I was saying the 95 EJ22 is a good choice because, since it's a non-interference motor, if the timing belt breaks, nothing else breaks.

Great help file, Legacy777. Is that on the sticky?

I'd go with NGK plugs. Subaru motors seem to like them. I'd do some research on the tornado before you spend money on it. Popular Mechanics did a dyno test on it and other fuel-saving devices and there was 0 fuel savings. Mobil1 is great. The 95 EJ22 was still a non-interference motor, so it's a good choice. I have 165,000 on my 94.

You're welcome. David

Sorry. I was thinking about on the manual tranny. You should be able to just jumper across the leads for the neutral safety switch, but I don't have a wiring diagram to tell you which wires.

There's no neutral safety switch. Which is kind of cool, because if you're off-road and kill the motor, it's not always a good idea to slide backwards before you start the motor.

NGKs are pretty decent plugs. I'd go for the platinum, but just the cheapest platinums. As far as compression, you need to be more concerned with even numbers between the cylinders than basic compression numbers. Look for one cylinder being lower than the others by more than 10%. It's also far more likely that you'd need a valve job than that you would need rings.

That's good stuff to know. I've had EA82t heads welded up before, and it just seemed there wasn't a lot of material there. Since i got my "new" Subaru, a 94 Legacy with the EJ22, I've decided that's the way I'm going to go on building my next GL wagon. Plenty of power and far fewer issues than with the turbo, and since I'd have to swap the wiring harness and plumb the turbo anyway, it seems like no more and maybe even less work. Still, I think what some of the people on this board have done with EA82Ts is impressive.

Actually, you hold in the clutch and let off the brake.

Oh- and as for how long the engine will last- 265,000 so far on one of my subes, 235,000 on another, 166,000 on the "new" one.

As far as I can tell, the 1948 Champion was the first to have it.

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It's located on the rear of the intake manifold (the crossover pipe) between the carburetor and the right cylinder head. It has a vacuum line going to it that controls it. The concept of the EGR valve is this: At high combustion temperatures, above 3000 degrees F (roughly 1650 C) the combustion of gasoline converts nitrogen and oxygen into oxides of nitrogen (NOx). NOx is a contributor to the formation of smog. In order to reduce the combustion temperatures, an inert gas (the exhaust gas) is introduced into the combustion chamber to lower the combustion temperature by retarding combustion. This occurs at higher engine speeds, hence the vacuum control. The EGR valve (if it's operating properly) will open at higher RPMs, allowing exhuast gases to mix with the incoming air/fuel charge. An improperly operating EGR valve can cause rough idle, hesitation, low power and poor fuel mileage. There has been quite a debate on USMB lately as to whether blocking off the EGR is a good idea. Mine is blocked off and my engine runs well with it that way. By the way, if you do a search you will find a long thread that is only a few days old that includes pictures of the EGR and tells how to block it off, if that's what you decide you want to do.

From experience I can tell you that EA82s love redline. They don't like to be lugged. You won't get power and you won't get mileage if you drive around below 2500 RPM.

Actually, if the hill holder is adjusted right, you should be able to let off the clutch without a thump and without rolling bckwards as you take off. I wouldn't worry about the 10 degree hill. The hillholder should only engage if your foot is all the way into the clutch on an uphill slope. For those of you who missed it, Ford has just introduced a hill holder clutch, which, of course, is "NEW!" in their advertising. The original hill holder came from Studebaker. I still think it's a really cool invention.