Subarian

I don't think you're nuts, but I do think that 182,000 is not a lot of miles for a Subaru engine. If it were mine, I'd fix it, but I haven't had back surgery.

You could remove it, but you wouldn't save that much weight, and you'd need to come up with a different serpentine belt. The compressor is the heaviest part of the system. You might save a few pounds by removing the compressor and the condensor; I wouldn't bother with the evaporator.

If you've found a rebuilt EA82 for $550, I'd say that's a good deal. It would probably cost you more in parts to rebuild yours. I'd just make sure it comes with a decent warranty, at least 12,000 miles.

I'd change it. On my 86 GLs and my 94 Legacy, I can afford to let them break, but on your you'll be in some real financial pain if you do that. Timing belts are relatively cheap insurance.

86 carbed GL wagon, d/r 5 spd, 25.5 average combined driving.

Engine computers tend to retard timing to avoid knocking. Lower octane gasoline is more likely to cause knocking, so the ECM retards the timing, reducing power, in order to protect the engine. In a car designed for regular gas, using premium won't get you any more performance, but in a car designed for premium, using regular will decrease performance.

You would need to install an aftermarket oil pressure guage.

A good tune up would be a good place to start. Plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, check PCV, check timing, rebuild carb if necessary.

I don't have a lot of experience with winches (except military ones) but Costco has one about that size in that price range I was thinking about. The soob isn't too heavy, and it seems to me that it would be adequate for self-recovery. Plus I like the fact that it's small and wouldn't be too hard to mount on the soob.

What you do with it depends on what you're trying to accomplish with it. If you're trying to clean the cylinder top end (valves and such) the vacuum lines would be the place. If you want to get sludge out of your crankcase and oil passages, add it to the oil

Swapping the windows isn't too hard. You need to remove the inner door panel, including the window crank. You'll find some rollers at the top of the window held in place by a bolt with a 10mm head. Loosen those, and also the ones to the front and rear vertical tracks. Then, by taking the window almost all the way down, you can access the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator, which also have a 10mm head. There is a tab glued to the glass, and the tab is bolted to the regulator's horizontal track. Unbolt the glass from the regulator and lift out. You'll probably need to remove the weatherstrip at the back of the door's window opening.

I personally don't like them, because I buy older cars and fix them, and I end up replacing radiators that don't flow because of stop-leak. I've never used the Subaru product. If Subaru will stand by it, I'd say go ahead.

Welcome to the board.

First you have to answer the question: It can only be driven a short distance because____________ . For example, it overheats, or it dies, or the cabin fills up with smoke, or something like that. Without knowing symptoms, it's hard to diagnose.

It will keep going as long as you are willng to keep doing a little maintenance here and there. Subarus are very well engineered and built, and they'll last you a long time.

Welcome, and you've found the right place to ask your questions.

It's not a direct fit. You'll need an adaptor plate and some other mods.

Thanks. I've got a PS rack I might just put in when I do the swap, but I wanted to consider the options.

:lol: Yeah, my wife gets a bit upset if I spend too much time with my car.

GL-Boost, you're not dumb, just learning. Everyone on this board had to learn somehow. You need to thoroughly go through your front brakes. Here's what I recommend: -Turn or replace rotors (I would replace them, because it's not too much more than turning them) -Rebuild or replace calipers (you can get a rebuild kit for about 8 or 9 bucks) I would strongly recommend doing both sides even if just one is having a problem right now -Replace slide pins and lubricate well -Replace brake pads -Bleed brakes -Adjust parking brake cable While you're there, you might want to repack your front wheel bearings, too. Good luck.

TOO COOL! I once had a problem on a long road trip with water in the distributor. I stopped late at night to take off the cap and spray some WD-40 in, and the center button fell out. After searching for about half an hour, I made a new contact out of a Mentos wrapper. It worked so well I forgot to change it for about a week after I got home.

I like liquid Tide detergent for removing grease. That and a stiff nylon bruss should get it out.

Hey, a couple of those places look really familiar. I'm glad you had a good trip. Thanks for posting the pics.

That's cool. I know the fan clutches are pretty expensive. I wonder if the stock temp switch controlling the fan is heavy-duty enough to control two. Maybe you could hook it up to a relay to run your second fan. Just a thought.

Is your vacuum advance on the distributor hooked up?