Subarian

I don't know about the XT-6 clutch, although I remember reading that they'll work. The clutch should have fit loose when you aligned it with the alignment tool. Once you bolted the pressure plate on, it shouldn't have moved.

I doubt they're manufacturing their own components. Contact them and find out what brands are included in their kits. Then you'll have a better idea of how good they are.

I've been doing a little reading since this thread started. It seems the return spring isn't necessary (in theory) on models equipped with the hill holder. I have one on mine, though. But in any case, the springs in the pressure plate should be pushing back against your pedal.

I haven't been up to 120, but my speedo (94 Legacy LS) is within 1% of my Garmin up to 80+ MPH.

Looks like a great idea for a 3-tone custom paint job!

The simple answer is yes. The knock sensors on most cars works by retarding timing; if your distributor isn't working right, your timing could be getting too far advanced and causing knocking.

Before you do it, check your local ordinances. It used to be you could dump antifreeze anywhere, but it's illegal in a lot of places now. It makes flushing your own cooling system more of a challenge, because you have to recover and recycle the waste.

No, there's no need.

No, EA82s don't have hydraulic clutches. The fluid in the hydraulic clutch basically fulfills the same function as the cable in a mechanical linkage. It's comparable to hydraulic brakes compared to your parking brake.

Yes, the flywheel bolts to the crank, and the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel. The clutch disk is held in place by pressure between the surface of the pressure plate and the flywheel. When the pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel, you shouldn't be able to move the clutch disk- that's why you need the alignment tool to get it in the right position before you tighten the bolts. Then the throwout bearing slides onto the transmission input shaft, and the input shaft goes through the clutch disk. When the pedal is depressed, the fork moves the throwout bearing against the fingers on the pressure plate, which releases the pressure that locks the disk between the flywheel and pressure plate, allowing the clutch disk to turn independently of the flywheel. One more thought- is the pivot pin in the clutch fork?

The springs in the pressure plate should be enough to push the clutch out to where it engages. The return spring pulls the fork back a little more so the throwout bearing isn't riding on the pressure plate. It's located at the top of the bellhousing. There should be a little eyelet on the clutch fork by the cable and another one on the bracket on the top two bolts on the bellhousing. That's where the return spring goes. You can choose a softer or a stiffer spring to give the clutch pedal the feel you want it to have. Does your clutch engage when you let off the pedal? You might just need to adjust the clutch cable.

Another advantage of LPCs- a lot less magnetic interference.

Did you get the throwout bearing onto the end of the clutch fork? Is the fork seated properly in the bell housing? Is your return spring attached? It's pretty straighforward- align the clutch plate with the input shaft on the trans and mate the trans and engine. I just noticed you didn't mention the pressure plate. If that's missing, the clutch won't return and you're going to pull the motor again.

The flex fan adds cooling capacity, but it's not connected to the A/C compressor in any way. Not having the shroud won't blow up your compressor- mine's got 265,000 miles on it. Shrouds serve two purposes. The first shrouds were for safety, and were just a plate installed over the top of the radiator to keep hands out of the fan. The second purpose is to draw air through the radiator. In some applications (my 15 passenger Ford van, for example) there's no way you could get enough cooling without the shroud, but in my Subaru, the fan sits less than an inch away from the radiator, and there's no other path for the air to take.

And how about getting home and realizing, "Well, I guess I needed that part that was attached to it," but now it's gone because you broke it? I say respect other people's property if you expect them to respect yours.

You can probably find the parts in a local wrecking yard. You need the backing plate, calipers, and rotors from a car with disk brakes. Look for a turbo wagon.

If you decide to get rid of it, check my PM.

I don't run the full shroud on the mechanical fan; I just cut it long enough to serve as a safety shroud. It's close enough to the radiator that it's going to pull air through.

I bought my first legacy (94 LS sedan) about a month or so ago, adding to my stable of GL wagons. After doing some work to get it up to snuff and putting new tires and a battery in it, I'm just under a thousand dollars into it. I really like it. It's more powerful, quieter, and has all the creature comforts. Welcome to the new world.

Can you turn it either direction by hand? Remove the plugs and put a 22mm socket on the crank bolt. See if you can turn it. You may be able to free it up. If it's only plastic in the cylinder, you might be able to blow it out.

Make sure your fluid reservoir is full.

Yeah, sorry. I looked again, and your AC belt is seperate from the PS and alternator. You can just cut the AC belt and be done with it.

I run 10w-30 in my Subaru with 265.000 miles with no lifter tick.

The first task is to make sure the coolant is full and the air is bled out. Once that's done, drive it and see if you have a heat problem still.

How much do you want to sell it for?