Subarian

I saw one for sale on Ebay last week, I think it was in CT, and there's one there right now in Australia.

Your description sounds like the switch for the 4wd dash indicator. It's possible the switch is broken or that you've got a short in the wire somewhere.

The smoke you saw is actually unburned gas vapor, and it's not unusual to find it in the carb of a warm engine. In fact, if you pump the accelerator with the engine warm (engine off) you'll see the vapor form as the accelerator pump pumps fuel into the carb. It sounds like you just need to rebuild your carb. The Weber is a good alternative, but you need to be aware that it's not a direct bolt-on. Even with the kit, you'll need to do some fabrication (bellcrank and PCV hoses, for example), and you may need to set up the jetting and idle corrections.

Ferrari used a Comprex turbo on its F1 cars a few years ago. They used a pressure wave supercharger.

Yeah, the DGV is the basic style. DGEV is electric choke, DGAV is water choke.

You're only likely to burn it out if you run something like a high-watt inverter (I burned up my Isuzu's after 5 hours on a 450 watt inverter). A cell phone charger draws very little amperage.

You can remove and replace the heads yourself, but you'll probably want to send the heads to a machine shop to have the valves done. They'll clean and check the heads, regrind the valves and seats, and replace any valves that need to be replaced. When you do that, you'll want to replace the timing belt, and with the mileage you have, I'd replace the water pump and carefully check all the idler pulleys and the tensioner and replace any that are questionable.

OK, so I know it's not a big issue, but... Since I got my Legacy (originally intended to be an engine donor, but too nice to part out) and began driving it, I notice it's a lot quieter on the road. It seems like the GLs are especially noisier in transmitting road noise from the rear wheels. Has anyone used any kind of sound deadening material, and with what kind of success? Thanks.

After having owned a lot (over 10, anyway) of GLs, I decided to build my latest GL wagon with a Legacy 2.2 liter motor. After looking around a lot, I found one in my price range in southern Utah, about 3 hours away, with apparent timing belt issues. After towing it home through a really wild snowstorm and waiting a couple of days for the 6 inches of ice to melt off in my garage, I discovered the tensioner hadn't been installed right. I reinstalled the belt and tensioner, and started it up. The water pump froze up, so I replaced that, and put in a battery. It started right up and ran great. Once I cleaned the garbage out of the car (a large garbage bag full) and washed the caked dirt off the outside, it didn't look too bad. So I ended up keeping the car and driving it. It's a 94 LS sedan, AWD automatic, and it's really a pretty nice car (especially for under $800 all together). Plus it got 28.5 MPG on its first full tank of gas. So now I'm a new generation owner as well.

Cool. If you know about installing windows, you know about urethane. I used to have an auto glass shop, and I've thought about using urethane to make things like sway bar bushings.

Urethane cures with heat and moisture. On the furnace would be fine if it's not too hot or very dry.

PeterD, I just reread through all the posts in this thread and caught something I missed before. You turned the idle adjustment screw in 10 turns and back out 4 1/2. That's still too rich on the idle circuit. To adjust it, do this: Turn the screw all the way in, and then back it out about 1 1/2 to 2 turns. Start the car and warm up the motor. With the motor warmed up and the choke off, turn the screw out 1/8 turn at a time, listening to the engine. Engine speed should increase initially. When turning the screw out no longer increases engine speed, turn it back in 1/8 turn, and that should be your idle mixture.

Maybe some rubber or plastic flares that bolt on. Or if you decide to make your own, make them bolt on. That way you can replace them without too much pain. That would also probably make it easier to get both sides close to the same.

Check with SuberDave. Or do a search of his posts.

I agree on the Weber conversion. They're marketed as a bolt-on conversion, but there's still some fabrication work to do. Congratulations on getting it done.

You would also need to make or buy an adaptor plate, as the bellhousing is different.

The DGAV is water choke; the DGEV is electric. I recommend the DGEV because it's easy to wire (one wire) and it's very reliable. I've got close to 80,000 on mine.

For those of you who don't have a sense of humor, check my other posts. There's a lot of useful information in them.

WAWalker, I agree with your last statement. It's unethical (and to me, at least, unthinkable) to sell someone ANYTHING if you know it has a problem and you don't disclose it.

Is your neighbor missing a cat?

Nah, the oil company guys would show up on your doorstep and pay you big bucks for your car so they could keep it secret.

There are several board members who have done the 5 spd swap into an EA81. The d/r is part of the trans, so you'd just need to get a d/r 5 spd to keep it.

I think you're confused. That picture is obviously a low-profile laser cannon.

I hope the Subarus haven't descended to the level of being an average car. Two of my three GLs have over 250,000 on them.

Yearly fees on mine are about $50, but I also have to pass safety inspection and emissions every year, another $40 or so.