Subarian

Cheap is good!!!

You'll help us help you if you tell us what year and model you're dealing with.

definitely dual range. Better for getting yourself out of a jam, and less likely to have a problem.

Left side, under timing cover, coolant problem- I'd check the water pump.

I have a 94 Legacy 2.2 AWD, an 86 GL carbureted wagon w/ d/r 5spd, and an 86 turbo wagon pushbutton 5 spd. My wife keeps asking me this same question, because I also have an 86 project car. I guess my answer is that I enjoy driving it more. It was and is a very unique car that combines good economy with real 4 wheel drive. Plus the fact that I enjoy keeping something running that I put together with my own hands. Having said that, the project car is definitely getting a 2.2, because there's no comparison in the power.

Your problem is probably not the timing, but it should be at 8 degrees BTDC on the carbureted engine. When you say it bogs down and acts like it's running on two cylinders, is there a lot of vibration in the engine? Does it do this at idle, or at a particular RPM range?

Do this check. When the engine dies, short to the negative (-) terminal on the coil (with the key still in the run position). Pull the jumper away from the terminal, and you should generate a spark. If not, the coil is most likely bad.

It's most likely the speedo. You can take it apart and clean and lubricate it.

Go for the EA82 wagon, d/r 5 speed. I get 27 MPG out of mine, and it goes pretty much anywhere I want it to. Lots of room for my Army stuff in the back.

GL-10 turbo wagons are a good place to look.

If it's a 87 GL, it's probably a SPFI motor. I've swapped many parts between GLs and Loyales, and most of it is a direct fit.

Carbed are all single port intake.

Do a search- someone on here did this a short while ago. They're really not designed to be run for very long or very far, so the rim isn't very robust.

Actually, with the DGV the throttle cable is routed in the stock position. This is a DGEV on an EA82. Notice that the cable is in the stock position using the stock bellcrank.

I've been running an air filter box from a SPFI with my Weber. I use a length of dryer duct to connect it to a plenum I built for the carb out of sheet aluminum. I'm not running any vacuum lines to the air box, just the carb (for the distributor) and the manifold (brake, vacuum contols). It seems to breathe pretty well all the way to redline.

EA82, Weber 32/36, 4 degrees additional initial advance (to compensate for altitude), blocked EGR, run this way for 100,000 miles, and NO knock, detonation, pinging, etc.

If it only does it when cold, you might be running too thick of a grade of oil. GD is correct, there is no valve adjustment for hydraulic lash adjusters.

I can't believe this thread is still alive. Bottom line is this: you can try it without making a permanent mod (see my previous posts on this topic) and if you like the results, keep it. If not, it takes about 60 seconds to undo. Oh, and if you melt your pistons, it's not my fault!

32/36 DGEV is the easiest swap. It's got the electric choke on the front and the bellcrank on the same side as the stock carb. The DFEV has the bellcrank on the opposite side.

The 4spd also makes me think it's an EA81.

Cool project. Since you asked, the venturi in the carb only serves a useful purpose in the carburetor, where it speeds up the air in order to allow the Bernoulli effect to draw fuel into the airstream. On the intake, it's just a restriction to airflow, and you would be better off without it, if you can trim it out.

Actually, the purpose of the coolant flow is just the opposite. It's to warm the intake charge for better vaporization and to prevent icing.

A 2.2 should fit with no problem, as that was the standard engine in the United States. Without knowing the configuration of the 1.6, it's difficult to say if you'll have to do any rewiring.

Woodchip, I think you're talking about an EA82 motor. On an EJ22, the timing marks will both be up, not exactly TDC but pointing to the marks on the timing cover. The mark on the rear of the crank sprocket is on one of the tabs that activate the crank angle sensor.

Anyone know of a good place to find metric thread inserts?