Subarian

You can use 1/2 inch plastic tees to connect them all together. The final one should go into your air cleaner housing- there's a knockout and a plastic elbow included in the kit for that purpose. So when you're done you'll have a breather tube from each valve cover connected with the PCV valve and plumbed into the air cleaner.

Are you sure it's DGEC? If i remember right, the C is for one-barrel carbs, and the V for two-barrel. The G is for the bellcrank on the right side, and F is for the bellcrank on the left side. E is electric choke, and A is water choke. So you might have a 32/36 DGEV.

I know of three at least in the local pick-n-pull. I don't have any idea about your area.

Back to your original post. It's got 120,000 and it's never been overhauled? That's because it's BARELY BROKEN IN. If you need to replace the clutch, then go ahead and pull the motor. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother. Your TOD is easier to fix with the car running, unless you plan to replace the HLAs. The timing belts and oil pump are easy, and you might want to replace your water pump while you're in there. There are three pieces you need for the oil pump, not just the MM gasket. There's also an O ring and a seal. Not that I want to discourage you from pulling your engine if that's what you want to do, but you asked for advice.

I'm not sure what the factory switch looks like, but there are a couple of blanks below the guage cluster. I used a rocker switch in one of those. Access is really easy.

5) find a buddy to help you with the timing belt. The 1.8 is a non-interference engine. It doesn't break things when the timing belt goes. It's a pretty simple job if you have basic mechanical knowledge and take your time. I last priced out parts about a week ago. With new tensioners, idlers, reseal kit for the oil pump and a water pump it came out to about $110, but I'm at work and can't remember the website. I do know they sell on ebay, so you might find them that way. The timing belts are simple. Line up the center timing mark on the flywheel (three hash marks close together, not the numbered ignition timing marks). Put the driver-side belt on with the cam gear pointing to the timing mark (up). Rotate the crank 1 revolution and line up the center mark again. Put on the passenger-side belt with the gear pointing to the timing mark (up). The driver-side cam gear will be pointing down and the passenger side up- 180 degrees out. Put it back together and start it up. If you want to go really cheap, just get the two belts. It's going to cost you about $40 and 2 to 4 hours of your time to find out if it's going to run (and I'd bet it will) instead of the $300 to have your mechanic try to educate himself on something he obviously doesn't know anything about.

I'm planning on the EJ swap, mostly for on-road, but the off-road advantages seem pretty good, too. As far as the 5-lug swap, you might want to look at 6 lugs, since it's a relatively easy mod and gives you tons of choices for tire/wheel combinations.

It really sounds like you have a timing belt issue- either stripped or loose. If your mechanic is going to charge $300 just to look at the timing belts, I'd find another mechanic. And it's VERY unlikely that the cam is broken. You need someone who knows Subaru engines.

What do you want? If you want to pick up a few HP and better mileage, go with the SPFI. If you want more serious power, go with the 2.2.

I found the tan shifter surround with the diff lock switch at my local pick-n-pull, so I know they made them.

Bump. I really want to know if it's worthwhile. Thanks.

A slipped timing belt will cause the plugs to fire at the wrong time (the sequence doesn't change). If you're missing a tooth or two, it will get worse with every revolution. It's really hard to diagnose a timing belt through the tiny inspection hole- you need to remove the cover and see what the belt looks like and if the cam is in time.

It's hard to find heater hose the right size, but 5/16 fuel line works well.

So what did it do for your performance?

If you pull off the plug wire on the cylinder that's knocking, the engine will be much quieter if it's a rod knock, especially under acceleration.

I know some of you have done this. I've got a turbo motor I'm thinking about putting NA pistons in for better bottom end. Have you run into any issues running stock boost, like shortened life or need to buy premium gas?

I'm with Northguy. I don't see any moral dilemna. It doesn't sound like you cheated anyone. Just keep what you want.

Ram engines builds Subaru engines, primarily for aircraft applications, but they seem to know how to get every last ounce of power out of them.

If it's carbureted, the fuel filter is underneath next to the fuel pump and in front of the tank. Use vise grips or clamps to shut off fuel flow to the filter when you change it. It's at the lowest point on the system, and you'll get a gas bath if you don't. If it's fuel injected (including turbo models) the fuel filter is in the engine compartment just in front of the wiper motor. Make sure you relieve the pressure before you change it.

OK, I hope someone checks me on this, but here's what you should need: The splines on the input shaft are different, so you'll need a clutch disk from a non-turbo car. You'll need the complete shift linkage for the d/r and the trim panel for the shifter. It has the hole for the d/r shifter. You'll need the axle shafts and a rear end with the same gear ratio. The bellhousing, starter, flywheel, transmission crossmember, and driveshaft are the same, so yours are OK. Sorry about the omissions in the earlier post. I forgot you were going from non-turbo to turbo.

Thanks. They looked the same to me, but I didn't crawl under to check.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that. The splines are different, so you need those from the donor car as well.

Not all GL/DL subes had d/r 4wd. Pushbutton (single range) is actually very common.

It depends on a lot of conditions. Where I live (above 5000 ft) advancing 4 degrees compensates for altitude somewhat. Theoretically, the factory setting should give the best mileage/emissions, at the expense of performance.

I use permatex aviation gasket sealer on the gasket. Just a little extra insurance.