Subarian

Foothills of the Andes, in Colombia.

When you replace a transmission and it fails, and you have to go back in again, that's bad, but a back....

Sorry to hear about your back surgery.

The Legacy trans is different from the GL/Loyale trans.

bomba in Spanish is a pump. So it's the fuel pump. Bienvenidos, Albornoz.

Not so fast with the head gasket. There are a couple of clues here people are missing. 1) The car's heater goes cold at low RPMs and the temp gauge goes up; speeding up the RPMs puts everything back to normal. 2) The condition doesn't occur with a 3/8 hole drilled in the thermostat. My diagnosis: Trapped air in the cooling system. When you have air in the cooling system, it tends to congregate in the upper parts of the system, especially at low RPMs. Since the coolant temp sensor and the heater core are rather high in the system, you get no coolant around the sensor and none running through the core. Once you speed the engine up, coolant is forced through those places. The solution is actually really simple. You need to purge the air out of your coolant system. To do that, park the car with the nose uphill. Take off the radiator cap, and fill the radiator. Squeeze the top hose to force out any air bubbles, and refill. Keep doing that until you can't get any more air out. Now start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temp (fans come on). Refill the radiator as necessary. Also make sure the overflow bottle has coolant in it, as it will refill the radiator when the engine cools down. Enjoy driving your Subaru.

Dude, there's a huge hole in the front of your car! If you like blue and want a two-tone, I'd consider the shade of blue you have now with a darker contrast blue layer.

And some whining is normal. Just make sure the gear oil is up and you should be OK. These transmissions are pretty tough.

I agree. Having owned carbed, SPFI, and turbo GLs, as well as a 2.2 Legacy, and having swapped Webers and SPFI onto EA82s, my next project is to put the EJ22 into my 86 wagon. It's not a lot more work, and there's no way you're going to get near as much power out of the EA82 without paying HUGE bucks to do it.

Bendix also lists 3/4 for the 4dr sedan, BUT TrueTorque lists either 5/8 (15.9mm) or 11/16 (17.5 mm) for the 4dr sedan. If you're getting new or remanufactured cylinders, the difference won't matter as long as you get both the same. If you're looking for a rebuild kit, you're probably going to have to pull yours out to be 100% sure. Keep in mind that these specs are also for US Domestic Market Subarus; the European specifications may be different.

The 4wd in your subaru is intended only for off-road or slick on-road conditions. There is no differential between the front and rear, so the wheels will attempt to turn at the same speed, and will bind on a turn on hard pavement. When they bind, they are hard to get out of gear. Your wheels should be pointing straight ahead and not slipping when you shift into our out of 4wd. Sometimes it helps to back up a few feet when the trans binds in 4wd. Your Lo light is operated by a switch under the console cover. If it's broken or misadjusted, the light will stay on. It wouldn't have anything to do with the check engine light.

Duct tape and JB Weld!

Thanks. It's nice to have an update!

There are three (if I remember right) bolts that hold the idler on. The bolt you described is for adjusting the tension. Look at the back part of the tensioner, under the area where the pulley is.

If you look at where the battery lug is on the solenoid, that will give you a good idea of where the contact is. It's pretty self-evident once you take it apart. The solenoid is powered by a low amperage circuit from the keyswitch. When that circuit is closed, it moves the plunger in the solenoid, which closes the contacts on the high amperage side of the solenoid.

Subarus seem to like NGK plugs. Congratulations.

OK, even though it's three years old, I have to add my theory. Have you checked with you local psychic to make sure no one has cast a spell on your Subaru? Have you checked to make sure there are no aliens using a tractor beam on your Subaru? Have you noticed black helicoptors hovering near your Subaru?

I just rebuilt the front calipers on my 86 GL at 255,000 miles (because the boots were torn- they still worked fine). It's kind of hard to believe that Subaru would have that kind of problem on a newer model.

The contacts look like thick copper washers. You can clean them up with a file and they'll be good for a long time. Carbon builds up on the face of the contacts and pitting wears down the face, both from arcing. Just clean them up until they're shiny.

Raybestos also lists a 3/4 inch (roughly 19mm).

I would recommend you check yours before ordering, as I have run across at least two sizes on the rear brake cylinder. My current one is about 19mm. The size may be cast or stamped onto the cylinder.

The Loyale didn't have an AWD trans. They are also a different size. You would have to do some fabrication to make it work.

There was a recent thread about using Rustoleum. It seems like a pretty good way to go.

You can downshift into first. There's no reason to run at 1500 rpm when you're trying to accelerate.

Lift between 2 and 4 inches, 27 inches max tire size, offset as close to stock as I can make it. Haven't decided on the sway bars.