Subarian

As I'm preparing for the swap into my 86 wagon, I notice that the PS pump on the 2.2 is used as the tensioner for the serpentine belt. Has anyone deleted the PS pump and fabbed a tensioner for the belt?

I would take a look at your PCV valve. Just my guess.

Do you have wheel covers? Sometimes a loose or damaged wheel cover will do that.

They use very aggresive off-road type tires. I've attached a couple of pics; one is a 5 ton truck and the other a HMMWV.

Just FYI- Duracool is a hydrocarbon refrigerant, meaning it is flammable. It is illegal in many US states and localities to use it in automotive air conditioning.

The biggest problem I can see is that there's no frame to tie it into on the Subaru. Depending on how you anchor it to the body, you might actually do more damage with the exoskeleton than without.

Having a bit of experience with military vehicles (over 18 years so far), I have to say that this type of tire is not my favorite for off-road use. There's a reason the military moved away from this type of tire. They seem to be best at digging into whatever soft surface you're on, especially sand.

mattracks are VERY cool but VERY expensive. A buddy of mine checked about 4 years ago, and if I remember right, it would have been in the neighborhood of 15 grand for his 4X4.

Some of the older parts make good upgrades for your 94 as well, such as the dual range trans.

If the driveshaft does have a bad U joint, there are other options than the dealer. If there is a local driveline shop, they can install replaceable U joints in your driveline, and it will cost you less than a new driveline. You can also check out http://www.rockforddriveline.com/ or have your mechanic take a look for your application.

I'm with Jerry. With the choke open, look down the primary barrel while you move the throttle to fully open. You should be able to see a small stream of gas. If you don't, your accelerator pump is likely faulty. You just need to replace the rubber diaphragm- it's on the front of the carb.

It sounds like a timing belt idler or tensioner or perhaps the water pump has seized or is in the process of seizing. You can remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. If the sound goes away, it's an engine accessory, like the alternator, PS pump, or AC compressor. If the sound doesn't go away, I'd look under the timing belt cover.

Cool idea, but I would consider using full-time 4wd transmissions. Less shifting, and you could wire both diff locks to one switch.

It will work, but you might need to rejet it for your car. You'll also need to build or buy an adaptor plate and modify the bellcrank to work with your linkage.

There's been quite a bit of discussion on using the EJ18 heads on the EJ22 motor. The consensus seems to be that while there's a potential gain by raising the CR, the gain is quickly lost by the lower flow efficiency of the EJ18 heads. The pre-96 EJ22 you mentioned is a good engine because it's a non-interference motor, which means the timing belt can break without breaking other stuff, like valves and pistons.

I never knew Subaru had made a convertible! I did a Google image search and found one, a black 1983 convertible. So for those who collect really rare Subarus, there's a new object of desire.

BGD, you missed the decimal. Was that $120.00?? Seriously, Subarus present a great value in a car. They're (usually) inexpensive to buy, easy and cheap to maintain, and last nearly forever.

Still got mine. I like having them on there. I put anti-seize on the bolts before I reassemble them, and that makes taking them off the next time a breeze.

I would recommend getting a second opinion before you do anything else. Ask around for recommendations for an independent shop in your area. My daughter took in my 94 Rodeo for an oil change and came home and told me it needed almost $1500 worth of work, which it didn't.

They're called the third brake light or the high-mounted brake light. You should be able to find one at your local salvage yard. BTW, the taillights are the lights that come on with your headlights.

$3500 should have gotten you a new engine. The problem is that it's very hard to get a dealer to admit they did something wrong. I agree with Gary and Nipper. You can probably get an oil analysis at your local Caterpillar dealer or at some other heavy-equipment dealer, if there's still oil to be drained from the engine. Take pictures, keep receipts, get written statements from dealer #2, as much evidence as you can get. Often winning in a case like this consists of wearing down the other side. Good luck to you.

The O-ring goes on the thermostat, and then the thermostat goes into the outlet housing. There's no other gasket.

The compressors and related parts on these cars seem to last forever. Usually when a car loses its ability to freeze you out of the car, it's due to low refrigerant levels. It's hard to seal any system 100%, and over the years some regfrigerant can leak out. The trick is to add enough without adding too much, which will overwork your compressor and make it less efficient. The best way for a do-it-yourself charge is to buy a relatively cheap hose with a pressure guage. Make sure you hook it up to the low side on your car, and charge until the pressure is in the recommended range. If you've lost a lot of refrigerant, you need to find out where it's leaking. Usually just replacing an O-ring or two will take care of it.

You don't say how many miles you have on it or if it's leaking oil. I would recommend replacing the water pump and any seals that are leaking, and resealing the oil pump.

Also check the ground to the chassis. That's a common cause of dim lights.