Subarian

Hmm- GL wagon VS Cadillac DeVille? I wonder who's going to take that one?

The problem with installing a distributor in the Loyale is that the range of adjustment for timing is pretty small. So I would do what sea#3 suggests, but instead of stopping at 0 degrees, stop at 20 degrees BTDC, which is what your factory timing should be. Now line up your rotor with the mark you made on the housing of the distributor. You should be really close to the correct timing. And pull the number one plug to find TDC on the compression stroke. Since it's a 4 cycle engine, it makes two complete revolutions for each firing cycle.

You don't need the EGR. You do need: distributor, brake booster, and vacuum reservoir lines. The one to the distributor comes from the front of the carb; the other two from the manifold. Just trace back from the brake booster and from the reservoir (a white plastic cylinder on the firewall on the passenger side (at least in the US)). And the reference to a quarter is to a quarter dollar (US) which just happens to be the right size to block off the ASV at the exhaust port.

Too cool! I've done small areas on my cars with spray cans before. If you go to a paints supply shop, they can mix your color and put it in an aerosol can. It matches really well, too.

I've got 258,000 on my daily driver. I replaced the timing belts about 5,000 miles ago and resealed the oil pump at the same time. It takes a new mickey mouse gasket, an O ring, and a seal. It brought my pressure at idle up to over 15 and at speed to over 45, which is pretty decent with this many miles.

The easiest way on an EA82 is to block the exhaust port before it gets into the EGR. Subaru made it incredibly simple. Find the elbow that goes from your passenger side head to the intake manifold. You'll find it under a small elbow-shaped heat sheild. There are two bolts that connect the elbow to the manifold (arrows in picture). Put a piece of tin from a soup can behind that, and there's no exhaust flow to the intake or the EGR valve.

Reread my last post. Power increased, fuel mileage improved (better mileage=less fuel burned). I would call both of those a gain. And I'm still passing emissions with no problem.

Dumb is in the eye of the beholder, I guess. I blocked mine and picked up smoother idle, better acceleration, and about 1 MPG. So there's your DUMB theory put into practice. As far as disconnecting the EGR vacuum line, it won't accomplish anything with a malfunctioning EGR. And I've never experienced any detonation issues. And BTW, my sube passes emissions tests just fine. It's all in how good you are at tuning an engine.

I can't imagine why you wouldn't want to keep it blocked off. I'm just saying it's reversible if you decide you need it (like for an emissions test). You will get a little more power. It's pretty simple; instead of introducing a gas to quench the burn in the combustion chamber, you're letting it burn. More burn = more power.

The deepest I've had my Sube is about halfway up the doors. I drove it to an island in the middle of the East Fork of the Bear River. No water came in the cab, so the weatherstrip was good. One thing I do on the distributor in addition to dielectric grease on the boots is to put a little line of grease on the bottom of the cap before I install it. I think it helps keep water out. On the downside, I think that trip ruined my catalytic convertor, as I had been running some trails before I went fording. I'd make sure the convertor has time to cool down before you go in.

It reduces combustion by introducing a gas that won't burn (since it's already burned). It's really not about the temperature of the gases; it's about the combustibility. You might notice a slight improvement in mileage and power, even if your EGR is working as intended. The nice thing about a fix like blocking off the EGR where I mentioned earlier is that it's easily reversed if you decide you don't like it. Just pull the piece of metal out, and your EGR is functioning again.

The principle behind the EGR valve is to introduce an inert gas (exhaust) into the combustion chamber to reduce combustion temps at high engine speed, and thereby reduce formation of oxides of nitrogen. Since it doesn't matter where the exhaust gas comes from, one side of the engine is sufficient. Blocking off the EGR will smooth out your idle (assuming the EGR is leaking) and improve power an mileage slightly. You just need to block the flow of exhaust gases anywhere in the system. On the EA82, it's easiest to do it where at the flange where the riser from the head meets the EGR valve.

You can use a piece of tin from a soup can. It's easiest to block it off where the riser from the exhaust manifold bolts to the EGR valve.

I'm not sure, but I think I saw something like that in the JC Whitney catalog years ago.

There's not anything on the trans to tell you, at least not that I'm aware of. But you can look at the rear diff, because it's matched to the trans.

How much more HP/torque does the N/A MPFI have than the SPFI?

So are you asking what a d/r tranny is worth or what a non-running Subaru with no title is worth? You can get a tranny at pick-n-pull for about $65 if you pull it yourself. The car, if it's not running, probably isn't worth a lot. I've seen what Pennsylvania does to Subarus, and it's not pretty. And getting rid of what you don't want without a title can be a hassle.

You also have a coolant crossover in the manifold.

OK, i just looked and the large hose is connected to a fitting on the EGR valve housing. The vacuum line is connected directly to the port on the manifold closest to it.

Your best bet is to replace the front hub. They're easy to find in wrecking yards and easy to replace. Make sure there's not a ridge on the cone washer before you reassemble it. If there is, you can file it off.

Got it figured out. The lines scribed on the pulleys are the timing marks. PO had left one of the cam sprockets loose. Just discovered the water pump is frozen, though.

I'd stay away from any dealer who thinks a Subaru has a V6.

You're welcome, and welcome to the board. The seat belt can probably be found at a local salvage yard. They're pretty common- my local pick-n-pull has 6 or 8 loyales.

Thanks for the pics

One of my GLs is stock carbed. I'll take a look later today and tell you where the hoses go.