Subarian

Your engine is the EA82, a single overhead cam 1.8 liter engine. The code is cast in the front of the block, in front of the thermostat housing.

Called map lights in the US. They only operate by the pushbutton switch.

Oh, I forgot, there are also a couple of electrical connectors and the speedo cable. And you're quite welcome.

Unbolt the starter, disconnect the clutch cable, unbolt the trans from the car, remove the driveshaft, unbolt the crossmember, and the the tranny will slide right out.

It's actually rectangular and sits on the roof just in front of the door opening. I have no idea if the wiring is there, but it wouldn't be too hard to add.

It's called an anti-backfire valve. There definitely shouldn't be any fuel there.

That's a nice, clean installation. I'll bet it doesn't go offroad much.

Here's the picture of mine. I've run it like this since I put the Weber on 70,000 miles ago.

So where are the pictures? I'd like to see how the factory fit the ER27 into the wagon's engine compartment.

That would be the correct configuration. You might want to make sure your PCV is working properly. Take it out and shake it. If it rattles, it's fine. If not, replace it. The PCV will suck oil and gas fumes from the engine.

Not that I'm considering doing this myself, but has anyone put a Mazda rotary in a EA82? It seems like they're light and small and have lots of power.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but on the NA, at least, I think the Hitachi have a snap-on cap and the NipponDenso have screws.

Have you checked the choke? Another possibility is a worn or sticking throttle plate.

Your clutch is completely mechanical. The hillholder holds brake pressure when the clutch is fully depressed and the nose of the car is uphill, so you don't have to do the clutch-brake-gas dance. It's nice to have, but not necessary.

Turbo is 3.7:1, non-turbo is 3.9:1. You'll have some major issues in 4wd if you leave the 3.7 rearend in with a 3.9 front.

I went to NAPA to get plugs and boots for my wife's 97 Ford van (coil on plug). I told the parts guy I needed spark plugs and boots for a 97 Ford E350 with a 5.4 liter engine. His first question was, "Is that a diesel?"

It's not a transfer case; it's part of the trans. The dual range trans has a selectable gear on the input that changes the ratios. It's a direct swap. You'll need the dual range trans with the shifter and the shifter surround from the donor car. I bought a trans recently from Pick-n-pull and they wanted to charge me an extra $50 for the transfer case. I said to go ahead and take it off. Since they couldn't find one, I got out without paying the extra $50.

Valve lash is hydraulic. There's no adjustment needed or possible.

Every swap should be this easy. You don't need to cut or grind anything; it all bolts up. Make sure you get the shifter surround (the plastic part that goes between the console and the dash) since it has the cutout for the d/r lever.

It sure looks like the DGEV.

Follow the hose to where it ends. You will find a PCV valve in the back of the intake manifold. If you still want pictures, let me know and I'll take some after work.

On the back of the intake, below the carb, there is a PCV valve. That's the one you described as coming from the middle of the engine. On each valve cover there is a breather tube. You connect all of those together with a tee, and then use another tee to connect to the nipple that came in your kit.

With 260,000 miles and bad oil seals I need a quart every 1,000 miles.

Another thing I do is put anti-seize on the timing cover bolts. Some people like to run without covers, but I prefer to have them on.

Do you have a pic of the carb you're talking about?