Subarian

Cam is short for camshaft. The camshaft is driven by the timing belts off the crankshaft. If you're a tooth off, the engine will run really poorly and it will be very noticable at idle. You will feel it as the whole car will shake, not just the shifter. The 89 is identical to the 88, except possibly some changes in color coding of wiring. The manual is the same for both.

It's not that complicated. Park with nose uphill. Remove radiator cap. Squeeze upper hose slowly and release. Add coolant. Repeat until no more air bubbles appear. Fill overflow bottle. Enjoy.

What they're saying is that if you mount it the ONLY way it will go on, you'll be lined up so the marks on the flywheel are aligned with the crank at TDC. The bolt holes are asymmetrical. Put it on the crank extension and turn it until all the bolt holes line up.

Can't help you with the offset, but this will help you with the tire size: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

If you still have a good sample of the oil, I would take it to someone locally who can do an oil analysis. My local Caterpillar dealer does them for about 10 or 15 dollars. They'll give you a printout of exactly what is in the oil, and an analysis that tells you what parts are likely failing.

It kind of reminds me of the metal doors we welded on our HMMWVs in Iraq. Of course, those were 1/2 inch steel, which is really hard on the hinges, and even harder on the toes when the hinges break.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56809 It would definitely be more user-friendly with some pictures.

Actually, it is AWD when the center diff is not locked. That means power is transmitted (in theory) through the differentials to all four wheels. The unfortunate thing about this setup is that with three non-LSD differentials, the wheel with the MOST slip will get all of the power being transmitted. Locking in the center diff puts the car into 4WD mode, in that power is being transmitted through a locked diff to both front and rear. In that case, the front wheel with the most slip AND the rear wheel with the most slip will turn. If you add a rear LSD, both rear wheels and the front wheel with the most slip will receive power, giving you the best traction available on any stock EA series car. Having said that, locking the center diff is like locking in the 4WD in a pushbutton or d/r car; it should only be done in limited traction or off road conditions, as torque bind will occur on dry pavement.

If you put the shifter in 3 or 2 and press the manual button, it keeps the trans in that gear. It won't downshift when you slow down. That's all it really does.

GD is right about one thing leading to another. I've been down that road, and it does tend to get expensive. On the other hand, I just picked up a complete 92 Legacy with 162,000 miles for $250, and the engine is going into my 86 wagon. The adaptor plate is something you can build yourself, and the flywheel can be modified with a dremel or a round file. The EJ clutch is not needed, as the EA82 d/r 5 speed stays (mine's getting a turbo or XT clutch) and you can do the wiring. So it can actually be a lot less expensive to go the EJ22 route, and you get considerably more power.

I pulled a d/r full-time 4wd with center diff lock out of an RX (I think it was an 89, but not sure) at pick-n-pull for about $150. I also picked up the limited-slip rear diff while I was there.

Check the offroad forum. There's a recent thread on a skid plate for the Impreza. You have several options.

Your most likely cause would be one of two O-rings on the fittings to the condensor, or possibly other O-rings in the system.

There's probably not a lot of air flow behind the headlight, but you can collect some cold air behind the headlight on the passenger side inner fender well. There's an opening there that's the cold air intake on the fuel injected EA82s.

It sounds like you have one or more exhaust hangers broken or missing. If you get under the car and follow the exhaust, you should see the hangers. Repairing or replacing them should fix your problem.

Ad hominem is latin. It means, "to the man," and it's not an insult. It means that you attack the person rather than the argument. I was just trying to give you another option, not telling you how to do it. It's your car.

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I endorse the 2.2 as well. My 94 is an LS sedan and not a wagon, but it's quite comfortable and has plenty of power. I bought this one about two months ago, and I'm into mine under $1000, with new tires and timing belt/water pump.

As far as the bellcrank (that's the part on the throttle shaft that the cable attaches to) I used my original and modified it to fit the Weber. It works really well.

Believe it or not, out here in the west we have speed limits too. Like I tell my children, just because you can doesn't mean you should.

Too cool!

Phone: (303) 293-9230, Fax: (303) 293-9231 Looks like MikeShoup beat me to it.

It's fused, but no relay.

It doesn't look like there's a whole lot of engineering or metalwork there. You could make your own with a sawzall and a drill for a lot less.

Cool project. It looks pretty tiny, though. I imagine it would take some shortening of driveshafts and maybe axles.