Subarian

Although it's good to know what your compression is, I doubt that you did any damage to the HGs or the heads. It sounds like you're replacing all the hoses. You might want to check the condition of the accessory drive belts as well.

If you can get an 87 GL with 135,000 miles for $500 and it's not totally beaten up or rusted out, I'd go for it. The only differences between the 87 GL and the Loyale were options offered on them. Basically they're the same car. Subaru decided to offer fewer options to EA82 buyers when the Legacy came out.

It's a bilge pump from a boat. It's designed to move air, not to compress it. It won't give you any added performance. This guy rips people off all the time. Here's one of his feedback comments: Thanks for the $180 deskfan... No thanks to the $10 rebate for feedback So apparently he pays people to give him positive feedback. If you read the feedback, some of it is + but with negative comments. The physics behind the device just don't work. Don't waste your money.

I have three 86s and a 91 and a 94 legacy... that's why I'm looking at it for a friend. It helps with my subalust and won't get me in trouble.

I have a friend who's looking for a sube for his son to work on. I'll let him know about it and PM you if he's interested. Thanks.

If the tree that fell was on your parents' property, their homeowners might cover it. If it was a neighbor's tree, you can make a claim against their homeowners. As for parts, a wrecking yard is a good place to start. That's the best place to get original Subaru parts for cheap. You might also look around for a cheap donor car, especially one that has mechanical problems.

The phrase, "As good as it gets" comes to mind. You might make a little more HP with delta cams and a port and polish of the heads. To get significant gains, you'd need to go with a turbo or swap in an ej22. Of course, a good tuneup will ensure you're getting the most the SPFI has to offer.

Just a clarification: The Full-time 4WD of the RX has a center differential. It acts like a normal AWD car on the road. When you lock the center differential, it acts like the d/r 5 speeds of the part-time EA82s, plus the LSD gives you more traction. It's the best of both worlds, and it doesn't hurt it to drive it on the street (with the diff unlocked).

I've owned it since about 90,000. And yes, I change my oil every 3,000 to 3,500 miles. My point is simply that he might want to make sure he has a problem before he goes through the hassle of replacing the pump.

I'm with cobalt. The first thing I would check with those symptoms is plugs and wires. BTW, I tuned up a friend's Subaru with Champion plugs they bought. It ran really rough, and I thought a wire might be bad. Just to check, I switched the plug from the cylinder that was misfiring, and the misfire moved with the plug. I sent them for NGKs, installed them, and it purred like a kitten.

Should work. The upper and lower hoses are the same angle, and the mounts are the same. I've swapped radiators between Loyales and GLs.

To put a return line on the Weber, you have a couple of choices. There is threaded cap opposite the fuel inlet where I installed my return line. I just installed two brass elbows so the return line would point back towards the fuel tank. That's probably the best choice. The other choice would be to put a T fitting before the carb and connect the return line there. Since the return line is a smaller diameter, you should still get enough flow to the carb.

If you have a local shop that specializes in parts for VW Bugs, they probably have them.

1986 GL Wagon, 275,000 miles, never replaced the oil pump. Resealed twice, still puts out 15PSI at idle. The Subaru pumps just aren't that crappy. I've owned 14 Subarus now, and I've never replaced a pump.

If it doesn't happen again, I wouldn't worry about it.

It does both. There's no reason to remove the return line; it doesn't cost you any power or economy. I had problems with the fuel pump on my 86 with a Weber 32/36 until I reinstalled the fuel line. The pump would pressure lock and not restart, and then I'd have to crawl under the car and bang on it with a screwdriver handle to get it going again.

What SuberDave said. If he's following the procedure in most manuals, one cam is probably 180 degrees out. When done correctly, the center timing mark on the flywheel (three lines, not the numbered timing marks used for ignition timing) will be lined up with the pointer, one cam timing mark will be up and the other will point down.

If you took the belt off, the compressor wasn't engaged. That means you don't know that it's the clutch. In fact, the clutch is simply an electromagnetic clutch that engages the compressor. If the A/C is working, the clutch is engaging. There are three possible sources for your noise. One would be the belt/pulley interface. Check the belt for wear, check the face of the pulley, and check the tension on the belt. Another possibility is the bearing in the clutch. The third possibility is the compressor itself. If the noise only appeared after you cleaned the engine, it's not likely to be the compressor. I'd start by looking at the belt, since that's the cheapest fix.

I wouldn't run out and change the pump. If you're using the stock guage, your oil pressure is probably fine. They tend to read really low at idle. If you're worried, you can get an aftermarket gauge.

What for? If you can't hear the engine tell you when it's time to shift, you have a tachometer to look at. Maybe for some racing applications, but it seems like a lot of money to tell you something good drivers know instinctively.

I put one on my 86 from a car I got at an impound sale (seized engine) and that was about 75,000 miles ago. It's a little noisy, but it makes the air really cold. As long as the system has stayed closed (the tubing's not disconnected) and the compressor turns freely by hand, I think you'll be OK.

Yes, you can drive it that way, and I've done it plenty of times. Just remember you don't have a clutch to push in when you have to stop. You either have to kill the motor or take it out of gear (in which case you'll need to kill the motor to get it back into gear). The starter motor is strong enough to move the car short distances, as long as you don't overheat it by running it too long. I've used it to get my 86 out of traffic when my fuel pump failed.

I don't have my loyale anymore, but it seems to me there was a switch on the clutch pedal similar to the brake light switch. You could just bypass that switch.

My 94 Legacy LS AWD auto averages 27.5 MPG. You might hit 30 if you drive really, really, really conservatively.

No dyno numbers, but I definitely have more power on my EA82 with the Weber. You'll be getting rid of the ASV anyway, because the air cleaner you'll use with the Weber doesn't have a provision for it. As SubaruTex suggested, I also run 12 degrees timing, which also helps compensate for the altitude where I live. Soobmater brings up the EJ22. I've got one in my 94 Legacy, and I'm putting one in another 86 wagon I have. There's a huge difference in power, but it's also a lot more work than a Weber and adjusting the timing.