Subarian

I agree with the previous posts to a point. Your seals are not going to get any better with any additive. Stop-leak additives tend to soften the seals, which can temporarily decrease leaking, but the softer seals will wear even faster. The only solution is to replace them. As far as the lifters or hydraulic lash adjusters go, there are two causes for the ticking. One is low oil pressure. You can usually fix that by resealing the oil pump. The second cause is varnish on the lifters that causes them to stick. Thats where Marvel Mystery Oil (and similar cleaners) can be beneficial, by removing the varnish.

I have a favorite place I like to take my friends with their ford and chevy rigs. You come around a bend and there's just enough room between two boulders for my soob to fit, but mr. f and mr. c aren't going to make it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html I think they're the ones shown as the 1980 model.

I currently have 3 86 EA wagons and a 91 and a 94 legacy sedan. The 94 is the LS AWD version, and if you're strictly talking about a car for the road and not for offroading, it's hands-down a winner over the EA series. It's quieter, smoother, has more power, and has better road manners. It's also got better creature comforts. Having said that, the 91 is actually going to be an engine donor for one of the 86 wagons, but that's a particular quirk I have and may not suit everyone.

Go back! It's still too shiny.

You fill it on the low-pressure side. Your hose should only fit the low-pressure port. If you're not sure which is the low-pressure port, follow the line from the compressor back to the evaporator (the part inside the firewall) without going through the condensor (the part in front of the radiator). The low pressure port will be on that side of the compressor. The high-pressure side would likely blow up your refrigerant can, so you definitely don't want that one.

Sure, just jumper across the terminals on the plug.

At the same place you bought your R-134a they should sell a filler hose with a guage. It indicates the pressure on the low side of the system. Just fill it according to the instructions that come with the guage, and you'll be fine. The other option is to evacuate the sytem and fill it with a known quantity of refrigerant.

Time warp!!! This post is an old one. GM is no longer involved with Subaru.

A DIN stereo will fit with an adapter; the adapter sticks out about an inch. As BGD73 said, the shared ground is a real pain. It will hurt the performance of your stereo. If you're going with new speakers, I'd run all new speaker wiring.

It's designed to work only when the nose of the car is pointed uphill.

I had someone weld up my pan with it still on the car. He opened the oil filler cap so there would be somewhere for the pressure to go and it worked fine.

I would hunt for a ground that's loose or corroded.

Did you use a clutch alignment tool? If the clutch isn't aligned, you won't get the nose of the input shaft into the pilot bearing. You can also try putting the trans in gear and rotating one of the wheels to line up the splines, but if the clutch isn't aligned, that won't help.

If you got a lot of raw gas in the cylinders, I'd recommend you change the oil now, before you do anything else. Gas will flow past the rings and into the crankcase and will dilute the oil. You could end up with some very serious engine damage. I damaged the crank on a 455 Olds I built years ago when I didn't realize gas had gotten into the oil.

It's also a lot longer. You would have to do some serious custom fabricating to make it work. There's a guy on the board, Loyale2.7turbo, who's got a 2.7 in his wagon, but he hasn't offered any details on how it's installed. You might ask him.

www.redlineweber.com There's a link to the tech notes on their main page. It gives you instructions on how to set up your idle and also gives you an exploded view of the carb. You can get jets from them if you need to.

I feel your pain. My very loyal 86 wagon (270,000 miles) is starting to show some rust-through and I'm not a welder (yet). Still, I think I'll eventually come up with a way to fix it, either learn to weld or trade some work with someone else who welds.

Hmm... Ever victorious and giving up? Seems incongruous.

Bingo! The flex plate is the pattern.

Get the seats you like. As long as they're not too wide for the room between the door sill and the transmission tunnel, you can adapt them. No reason to be uncomfortable. Factory seat installations just use a plate welded to the sheet metal to reinforce the bolt location. You can do the same thing with a plate of sheet metal or some fender washers.

Even though I said cut it up, I have to say that it looks pretty good in what little is showing in the pic. Seems kind of a shame....

Are your castle nuts tight on the axles, and are your lug nuts tight. If either of those are loose, they can make a clicking sound (until the wheel comes off, then it's more of a thud and a grinding sound).

I saw a Jeep Cherokee today with the rear bobbed to about 12 inches. It sure makes the departure angle steeper. Maybe a combo of taking the top off behind the front seats and bobbing the rear.

I found this thread that shows center caps: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56818