Subarian

That reminds me of when I replaced an Olds diesel with a gas engine. Trying to do the right thing, I went to have it emissions tested. They told me they couldn't test it because the VIN said it was a diesel and the car was exempt. Good luck on getting them to make sense.

Actually, he just bought an 86 Brat and he's thinking about motor options. As far as a legacy motor, it costs whatever you pay for it. I just found a complete running car (90 legacy) with 162,000 miles for $250, but I've been looking patiently for 6 months. The advantage of a complete car is that you know it's running and you can pull all the accesories off it.

Or it's grounded out. Check for a break in the wire touching metal.

OK, so now we want to know, who's Rusty Jones?

That's such a relative thing. It would definitely get it open.

Are you trying to remove the entire wiper arm or replace the blade? The arm is held on by a nut on the stud. Remove the nut and wiggle the arm a little and it comes loose. The wiper blade is replaced by removing it from the pivot at the end of the arm. The end of the arm is U-shaped. If you lift the arm and rotate the blade part way, you'll see a tab on the underside of the pivot. Press down on the tab and slide the blade toward the open end of the U.

One more thing- use dielectric grease on the boots. It helps to seal the boots and it also makes getting them off the next time easier.

Most sythetics are completely compatible with petroleum oils.

How hot is hot? If it's in the middle of the normal range, I wouldn't worry about it.

Many years ago, when I rebuilt my first engine (a small block in a Chevy van) I misplaced one of the carb mounting nuts. After I searched for a while, I gave up and decided to start the engine. I immediately figured out where the nut was. Fortunately, it had only made a dent in the top of the piston and I was able to get it to run.

Depending on who you bought the carb from, you may or may not need to tune it. If you bought it specifically for your application from a supplier, like redline weber, it should be jetted correctly. You would need to set up the idle mixture and idle speed, both of which are pretty simple and can be found on redline weber's website: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm If you bought the carb secondhand and it was originally jetted for a different vehicle, or if you live at high altitude (like I do) you may need to rejet the carb.

I've removed EA82 engines and transmissions separately and together. It's not all that difficult to remove the trans, especially since you're going to have to remove all the pieces anyway. I'd leave the engine in place and drop the trans.

Professionals use a compound called cerium oxide. It's an abrasive powder that's mixed with water and used on a felt buffing wheel. It's really important to keep it wet while you're working it. I don't know where you can buy it commercially, but you could probably get your local glass shop to order it for you. If they say they don't know about it, have them check their CR Laurence catalog.

I have a similar problem running synthetic in my Isuzu Rodeo. The only thing I can figure is that the oil pump is too worn and the synthetic is too slick for me to get good oil pressure. There's a significant difference in oil pressure between the same grades of dino oil and synthetic.

The dipstick is there because the front differential uses gear oil. On a 4wd, the additional differential is added in the rear.

I agree with Gary. I'd replace that one.

dxrflyboy mentioned the dual polarity issue. I know that on my wife's van (5.4 liter triton Ford) the plugs will burn up in under 10,000 miles for that very reason. I use double platinum because I don't want to have to replace plugs on that thing for another 100,000 miles.

A general rule of thumb on polishing scratches out of glass is that if you can catch the scratch with a fingernail, it's too deep to buff out. Tempered glass is also much harder to buff out than annealed glass.

I've had the same quality issues with new rotors recently. You can pull the wheel and use a point on the backing plate as a reference point. It doesn't take a lot of out-of-round to make you feel it when you're braking.

You're very welcome. I'm glad the motor didn't have to come out again.

Which engine do you have? My carbed 86 doesn't have a knock sensor, but the turbo 86 does. Anyway, the original response wasn't to say anything is wrong with your knock sensor; it was to illustrate how timing can affect detonation (pinging or knock).

No spacer. There's a large washer that goes under the head of the bolt.

Check with your city or county. They usually have a waste disposal program for things like old paint and antifreeze. I've got about 6 gallons in my garage waiting for me to get to the dropoff point on the one day a year they accept hazardous waste from the public.

Are we offending the dinos or the germs? Personally, I'd be interested in trying whale oil. BTW, before the flame war starts, it was a joke. Can you imagine what it would smell like when it hit the exhaust manifold?

No, the cable length should be the same. Try pushing on the clutch fork. If you push it (or pull it) and it springs back, that's the pressure plate. If that happens, look at your cable linkage.