Subarian

A lot can be credited to the driver as well.

Check the castle nuts for proper torque.

I know of Delta cams, but I've never used them.

Good luck. I understand completely the desire to make it work, just because you know you can.

Bosch makes oxygen sensors for most of the new equipment manufacturers. You can get a sensor for your car that has the correct plug on it, or you can save a little money and buy the universal fit and splice the wire. Since it's a 1-wire sensor, it's an easy job.

There's a float in the reservoir on the master cylinder. When the level drops too low, it brings on the light on your dash. That's the first place to look.

I circumvented the problem on mine by running a wire from the + terminal on the coil to the fuel pump. Now the pump is energized whenever the ignition is in the run position.

I think you'd probably save more fuel by replacing plugs and cap and rotor than by putting in an electric water pump. But if you decide to do it, keep us posted. It would be interesting to see how the install goes and what the results are.

I've got the 32/36, and you'd pick up a little over the stock carb, but I doubt you'd pick up anything over the SPFI. One difference might be in the idle- I'm not sure how low the idle can go on the SPFI, but I can get my Weber to idle pretty smoothly down to about 450-500 rpm. I still don't think that would be enough of an advantage to switch from SPFI, though.

I'm glad you flushed your cooling system. If you decide to keep the car, that stuff can cause all kinds of cooling problems, like blocking your radiator or heater core.

I'd be really careful about any other advice the guy has for you, too.

A buffer works well on smooth aluminum. Unfortunately, I've got the factory Subaru wheels that have small concentric ridges.

Not having done the swap, but having researched it quite a bit, I think it's easiest to use your present transmission. I do have to say I really like my d/r 5 speed.

If you do get water in the distributor, a quick wipe inside the cap and a spray of some WD-40 will get you going again.

Not supposed to be replaceable, but you can replace them.

The stock U-joints are pinned, but http://www.rockforddriveline.com/ has a replacement for you.

I'm glad to see you're still here.

I would look at tire balance or an out-of round tire. Check your castle nuts and cone washers, too.

Cool. I'd rather have one of those Charter Member buttons, though. Those are really cool.

Ethanol should take care of any water/condensation issues. That's what HEET and other gas dryers are made of. It's possible that it might be fuel-related, but if it's vacuum it should be most noticable at idle. I would also look at the distributor cap/rotor, coil, etc.

I'm going to go with Mickey's looking for a new home.

Check all your grounds. It sounds like voltage is feeding back through your dash lights because it's looking for a ground.

Reverse flushing the heater core is pretty easy. If you want to flush your entire cooling system, you can reverse the heater hoses while you're doing it to reverse flush the core. Otherwise, you can disconnect the hoses to the heater and run a hose through the outlet side to see if it loosens up anything. You do have a heater box air control. It's connected by a cable to the temperature control on your dash. If the lever on the door under the dash is not moving freely when you move the temp control, that might be your problem. What you don't have is a heater control valve. That's a valve on some cars that sits in line on the heater hose and shuts off the flow of hot water to the core. EAs don't have them.

I think the EJs are great cars for people who need to drive in rain and snow. However, if you want to go offroad, stick to an EA. As for being recognized as a Subaru, I guess if you don't count the dozens of other bubble-shaped cars on the road, the newer soobs are pretty distinctive.

Actually, the Subaru engines used for aircraft applications run through reduction gearing (also offered on Ram Engines' website). You can run your turbo on your stock engine, as long as you avoid detonation. To run your turbo, you would need to do the necessary fabrication for the intake, plus install a higher-pressure electric fuel pump and a boost-indexed regulator. For carbed applications, a blow-off valve is a really good idea, too. I'm not sure about the EA81, but the first-generation EA82T motor (85-86) has a distributor and knock sensor that don't require an ECM and wiring harness.