Subarian

A couple more possibilities: There doesn't have to be any leakeage for a heater core to be partially or wholly blocked, as the blockage is internal. You could try reverse-flushing the core. Also, it's possible your heater door isn't closing completely. There is a door connected by a cable to the heater control on your dash. When you move that control lever, the door opens and closes to let the outside air directly in or force it through the core. You might want to have someone move the control lever while you watch the lever on the door to see if it's moving freely or binding.

I've had to remove the radius arm and you should also be aware that your axle will fit on the trans stub 180 degrees out, but the wrist pin won't go in.

It could be air in the system. It's not that difficult to fix. If you can park the car with the nose uphill, it makes it easier. Just open the radiator cap and squeeze the upper radiator hose. Refill the radiator, and keep doing that until no more air comes out. Make sure your cap is good, your overflow line is connected and good, and that you have coolant in the overflow tank. I'm curious whether this problem existed before you changed the thermostat.

If the fluid was below the top of the master cylinder fitting in the reservior (about 3/8 inch from the bottom), there's a good chance you got air in the lines. However, you don't have to have them bled professionally. It's a job you can learn to do, and it will help you have a little better understanding of the car you're driving. Get a manual or find a neighbor who can help you. Just remember to dispose of the used brake fluid responsibly.

Either of the items mentioned or (my vote) the exhaust hanger on the transmission.

Yeah, it's kind of cool when you can adjust your clutch without even having to get under the car.

Is the choke working? That sounds like the most likely problem. Check the linkages and make sure they're right.

On top of the transmission, directly behind the throttle body and almost centered on the transmission bell housing.

On the A/C: there are three bolts, I think, that hold the bracket on the block. If you remove those, you can lay the compressor back on the back of the engine to give you more room.

I've never seen any. In theory, you're not supposed to bore out the cylinders in the Subaru because the liners aren't up to it. You might try a google search.

Sorry, you're limited to two valves, one intake, one exhaust.

Cool, but it looks kind of nose-heavy. I wonder what it would do if you jumped it off a sand dune.

Clean the battery terminals, even if they look good. Put a little grease on them before you put the cables back on.

You're quite welcome. The same vacuum reservoir also serves the pushbutton 4wd on cars equipped with that.

If the replacement pump is the shorter one, you can shim it out- it's only about 3/16 inch. If it's the other way around, you can't use it.

On carbureted Subarus, it's really easy to bypass the fuel pump control circuit. All you do is run a wire from the + terminal on your coil to the + wire of the pump. The other wire goes to ground. The pump runs whenever the ignition is on, but since it's a recirculating system, that's not a problem.

Your heater door control is vacuum operated. Nothing electrical you did or can do will change it. The fan speed control is electrical. You have three places to check, two of which were already mentioned in previous posts. On the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment, there is a white cansister with a vacuum line on each side. That's your vacuum reservoir. If either of those lines are detached or if either hose is damaged, that's likely your problem. The next easiest thing to check is the heater door. It's operated by vacuum and should not have any detached vacuum lines. The third place is the control switch. To get it off, you'll need to pry out the top and bottom buttons. there are a couple of phillips screws that hold it on. If any of the vacuum lines are detached, your heater door will not operate properly. These switches also sometimes wear out, but not very often.

I think it's about 5 quarts, but that's going from memory. Good luck. Oh, and use a funnel and fill through the dipstick tube SLOWLY, or it's going get a bubble and burp gear oil out on you. Kind of like feeding a baby.

EJ22 into a EA82 is a common swap. You need an adapter plate and modified flywheel to mate it to the EA82 5 spd, and wiring harness and all that. Like monstaru said, there's a lot here if you search.

Autozone lists Bosch part number 69405. In one of my earlier posts, I included a link to a bunch of cars that use comparable inline pumps.

On my first Subaru, I had a hard time with a wheel I just couldn't get torqued right, and I finally noticed a ridge on the cone washer. Since then I've seen several more like that. They tend to get a 1/16 to 1/8 inch ridge on them, and then you're applying torque, but not where you think you are. The good news is that it's easy to remove the ridge by filing it down.

I'm with NorthWet. Check the firing order- I'll bet you have a couple of wires crossed.

I'm guessing you're asking about a 4wd turbo wagon. In that case, yes, all of those parts should work if you're going from a 5 spd to a 5 spd.

I know someone on the board put a distributor on a EJ series motor, but I'm not sure how they did it. But then, you're getting into some serious fabrication now.

If your tail lights work, your ground isn't the problem, unless the tail lights go dim or get brighter when you apply the brakes. The 1157 bulb uses the same ground for both filaments. Your mention of an electronic brake controller is the best clue, in my opinion. I would trace the wiring to wherever the brake controller was connected. Even if it used a tap-in type connector, I'll bet that's where your problem is. The wire is probably broken or corroded there. Good luck.