Subarian

An automotive machine shop can check it for you. The EA82 was made through 94. Depending on what you want to check, you might just want to go to the auto parts store and ask for some plastigage. It's a plastic that deforms as you torque the caps and you read the thickness to determine the clearances. It's pretty easy to use.

The real reason behind it was EPA certification. They had to go at least 100,000 miles for certification, and the way Subaru got the EPA to buy off on it was to install a light that would bring you back to the dealer so they could check it.

I still have mine. I like knowing that any junk that gets in the engine compartment isn't going to affect the belt. I found a good set and use anti-seize when I put the bolts on.

I'm just happy whenever my very limited knowledge can be of use to someone.

SubaruJunkie, is that a saab 900 IC?

Welcome to the board.

The purge control valve purges the fuel vapors from the carbon canister. It shouldn't hurt you to drive it that far.

The EGR light is mileage driven. I comes on to get you to go to the dealer for service, regardless of the condition of the EGR. If you look under the dash, up high behind the fuse box, you'll see a connector that's not connected to anything. It's either blue or green, if I remember right. Next to it is a similar connector that's connected to a mating connector. Disconnect the one that's connected and connect it to the one that's not connected, and the light will go off.

No, this one is kinda cool: http://www.cyberonic.net/%7Edritchie/srrf.jpg The one on e-bay is just leftovers from a bad wreck.

I agree with Northwet. If you're finding voltage in a circuit that's off, it's usually because there's a bad ground somewhere feeding voltage back through.

I've had Subarus from 95 through 94, and the one thing that really bugs me about the Loyale is the automatic seat belt. I always wear my seat belt, but I like to be the one to put it on, and I don't like it choking me if I try to get out of the car too fast.

It should have a separate switch. On your 85, it's probably the top switch on the left side of the instrument panel. There should be 3 or 4 gray panels, and the top one should be the switch.

If it's like Chevy oil sending units, if you ground the wire at the sending unit with the ignition on, it should max out. If it doesn't, you've got a continuity break in the circuit.

I used a 5/16 bolt and filed down the head except on one side. It worked great.

Did you change the timing? If the plugs worked with the helicoils before you changed the cap and rotor, they should still work. If the thread inserts have come out, you can replace them or have a machine shop do it. It's a lot cheaper than replacing the heads.

I was thinking about this just the other day, thinking there had to be some way to get a LSD in the front. Now you've revealed the mysteries, and we can all enjoy. Thanks.

I use a couple of cable ties to keep the sending unit wire on the pass side of the dipstick. That way, if it comes loose, it can't go too far.

The tailpipe is so close to the muffler that if it needs to be replaced, there's a good chance the muffler does too, rust being the usual culprit.

You just need more posts. Stay tuned....

The 5sp d/r is 3.9:1 in non-turbo cars. It's 3.7:1 in turbos.

It's a very common problem. It's usually the hydraulic lash adjusters- HLAs- (the lifters). You can usually fix it by putting in a quart of marvel mystery oil and running it for a while at 4000 to 5000 rpm.

I would try the old Soob HLA trick: Put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it and take it out and run it at 4000-5000 rpm for a while. They may have thought they got it clean, or it might not be pumping up. This will usually cure lifter problems in the EA82s.

Bosch makes both a specific application for the EA82 and a universal. They're both single-wire unheated sensors. The difference is the terminal on the end of the wire. If you want to splice your old terminal on, you can save some money. Just a little bit of advice- if you use a solderless terminal to splice the wires, put a little bit of grease in the terminal before inserting the wires. It will prevent corrosion and make the joint last much longer. Dielectric grease works best, but any grease, or even vaseline, will work.

It's nice to have the ability to start on a hill without having to depress the clutch, especially offroad.

The O2 sensor is how your ECM knows what the engine is doing. It's vital to the engine control on a fuel injected engine. Replace it and see if that fixes it.