OB99W

Were you thinking of http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63680 ? In that particular case, it was the crank sensor that responded to dousing.

Congrats on the improvement! There might still be some connector contamination, or they aren't completely dry. This is sounding more and more like a variation on a problem we previously trouble-shot here. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100611&highlight=p0340 -- Although it's a long thread, I suggest reading it through (but don't necessarily get hung up with the resistance readings, etc.).

If it seems to run ''normally'' when you hold the key in the start position (other than the poor starter being beaten to death), the problem could just be a bad contact in the ignition switch. I'm speechless.

Could you verify that the warning light at least comes on briefly as you start the car? If the lamp is operational, yet doesn't flash at start-up, then the TCU (transmission control unit) isn't detecting an electrically-related diagnostic fault. Here's a link to general info on the phase-1 4EAT: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf

Checking the harness is a good idea. The large connectors at the rear of the engine where the transition is made from the engine harness to the body harness should be looked at. Those connectors sometimes get corroded or contaminated (although probably less commonly in LA than here in the Northeast). Sometimes disconnecting them, spraying out with isopropyl alcohol and then drying with a hair dryer can fix weird sensor problems.

The symptoms sound like the ECU has defaulted to a ''limping'' mode, since it apparently thinks that it can't rely on the cam sensor data. I'm not sure if it's relevant or not to your ''hybrid'', but the piece entitled ''Incorrect Parts Substitution'' on page 12 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf might be interesting.

Since you might not have the factory setup, it's certainly possible that the vacuum hoses aren't properly connected. You might want to read http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84813&highlight=p0106 in detail. Also, if the correct connection for your engine ''T''s off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, if you're dealing with a leaky FPR diaphragm that should be dealt with first. Yes, the green connectors are the ones you're looking for. Connecting them will of course not only cycle the solenoid in question, but also the fans and several other things.

Yes, we need to know if the warning light is flashing. Also, is the trans operating normally in 4th?

You're welcome -- happy ''hunting''.

The configuration varies. Take a look at the emissions label that should be pasted to the underside of the hood. They're under the dash, to the right of the steering column, usually dangling.

See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABSInsiderEWFall05.pdf .

You're welcome -- I think. Okay, since I can't have you hating me (although you might not like my answer)... Obviously, the EndWrench search function isn't the best, and even doing a Google search with ''endwrench'' plus the topic of interest doesn't always pull up an appropriate article. Therefore I've put together an index of links to EW articles that I find useful. Anyone can do the same. Start here: http://endwrench.com/. Click on ''Archives''. Under ''System Search'' (without selecting a system) click the ''Show Systems'' button. That should call up a list headed by ''Showing ALL Articles Ordered by SYSTEM''. The list begins with articles on brakes, then drivetrain, etc. Look at the ones that seem promising, and download them and/or capture the URLs. (Yes, it's tedious/time-consuming, but some of the info didn't show up any other way. )

See page 5 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf .

Here are a couple of links to generic info on Oxygen(O2)-A/F sensors: http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

If you haven't already done so, scroll down to the bottom of this page and look at the ''Similar Threads'' for some ideas. If your car has the in-line filter, it might be partially obstructed.

The piece entitled ''Incorrect Parts Substitution'' on page 12 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf might be interesting. Looking closely at the picture of the two sprockets above, it appears that the reluctor positions are shifted slightly on one versus the other.

The transmission oil cooler is inside the radiator. Insufficient coolant and overheating the engine can therefore cause trans problems. As already suggested, a fluid change might help. Gary obviously meant to say that the 1995-96 EJ22 is a non-interference design.

The oil pressure switch is supposed to operate at 2.1 psi. Cranking speed should certainly generate that pressure, so the dash warning light should go out. If it's remaining lit after enough cranking, connecting the pressure gauge is probably not going to reveal much. The 2.5's oil pump spec is for a minimum of 14 psi at 600 rpm, delivering at least 4.9 qts/min. Cranking speed, even with the spark plugs out, won't hit 600 rpm (probably closer to half of that), so oil pressure will be similarly reduced. Keep in mind that a measurement of adequate pressure isn't an assurance of sufficient oil volume delivery. Did you fill the oil filter before installing it? By the way, when you worked on the pump, did you disassemble the pressure relief valve? Obviously, if something is holding it open that would be problematical.

In another 22 years there might not be any sheet metal to get dented at all -- just a force field, and the illusion via holographic projection of body panels. Then you'll be able to select a different ''skin'' if you don't like the factory-default one. Insurance companies will deny any claims attributed to force field failure.

I had a feeling the car was going to be something we don't see here in the States. (Am I correct that it's ''Palmy'', as in ''Palmerston North, NZ''?) With the TT, going into limp mode like that is probably specifically turbo-related, and not something many of us will likely to be able to help with. Hopefully someone from NZ, Oz, or elsewhere that Subaru ''lightening'' strikes will chime in. Perhaps send a PM (private message) to USMB member Log1call -- See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=7647.

Depending on whether the car is level, etc., draining via the pan plug will remove about 4 quarts. Full capacity is about 9-10 quarts. Even a single draining and refilling of the pan will replenish the fluid to some degree, but depending on the fluid condition anything up to a complete flush might be the better thing to do. Here are a couple of links that could help you decide what to do: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80098 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=621866

The black 6-pin B82 diagnosis connector (for ABS/SRS/AT testing, depending on model year) and ''diagnosis terminals'' (ground leads) are often fully taped to other wiring under the dash, to the right of the steering column, so check closely. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5822&d=1215713274 for an idea of what to look for and the pin locations. Once you find the connector, with the ignition switch OFF, insert a ''diagnosis terminal'' into pin location #6 of the connector. Then turn the ignition switch ON (don't start the engine) -- that should get you the ABS blink codes. Post any codes you get if you don't know how to interpret them.

That's clearer, and those numbers are reasonable. Unfortunately, I suspect something closer to the latter. Even if the readings were low due to cold engine (or throttle not held open, etc.), I'd still expect some variation from cylinder to cylinder (as Subaru determined). The ''150 psi'' reading for all cylinders is suspect.

Welcome to the forum. Helpful ideas come more readily if helpful details are given first. Year, model, mileage, turbo or n/a, etc., please. Of course, the trouble code itself would also be useful, if you can have that read.

If one were to assume 14.7 psi sea level atmospheric pressure and 10:1 compression, it might make logical sense that the result would be 147 psi of cylinder pressure at TDC. However, there are several factors that influence the actual cylinder compression pressure -- two of them are valve timing and expansion of gases when heated (due to compression). Each engine design will vary, but a rough rule of thumb for estimating cylinder compression pressure is to multiply the compression ratio by 18. For a 10:1 design, that would suggest 180 psi as an approximation.