OB99W

You might find http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66744 interesting.

Ignoring the SeaFoam info, http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14294 describes the PCV valve location and has well-lit pictures as well.

For what Subaru suggests, see page 24 of http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/InsiderInfoEndFall03.pdf . EDIT: Here's some Three Bond info: http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1200list.html http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/popup/1200/1280bpopup.html

A loose tensioner could certainly allow the chain enough slack to jump. Can we assume that it's the right-hand (not left) tensioner that seemed loose? (Left and right are determined as when you're sitting in the car, not while facing the engine from the front. I'm only questioning this so that if you need to get parts, you wind up with the correct ones.) Yes, but let's assume the tensioner didn't properly ''lock''. It might have been okay as long as there was proper oil pressure, but aerated oil wasn't able to sufficiently expand it. I agree with the suggestions to replace the tensioner. While you're at it, inspect the chain guides and tension lever for fatigue cracks, and be sure to reseal the chain cover when the work is done. Well done, not just on getting it to run right, but also because you ''dove right into it'', as you said! We also appreciate the feedback -- too many times advice is given, but we don't get to hear what the outcome is.

I thought about the problem a bit more, and have some further comments. Just for general info: The EZ30 has two timing chains. It also has hydraulic lifters. I've been trying to correlate the overfill with the symptoms. Perhaps the oil got sufficiently aerated to cause problems with valve lifting. For how long has the engine been run since the oil level was returned to normal? EDIT: Ummm, I forgot that we're discussing a 2001. The later design had hydraulics, but I think that the '01 didn't, so the above might not apply. (Anyone else have the correct info handy?) I'm also wondering about chain tensioner problems.

Google ''noid lights'' to find lots of sources for them if you can't locate them locally. However, if the voltages on the injectors are the same on both banks, listen to them via a dowel rod (or screwdriver with a long shaft) as I previously mentioned. If they're operating, you should be able to hear them click. Although it's not common, timing chains can jump -- if by enough, valves will hit (which might be what you're hearing, unfortunately) and bend. By the way, the 3.0 H6 is a DOHC design. Yes, doing a leak-down test is a good idea, since it would allow you to differentiate between a potential timing problem that's minor and one that caused valve damage. Posting the codes would help, although it wouldn't surprise me to see P0301, P0303, P0305 at least. I agree with Cougar that compression readings of the ''good'' side could also be useful information.

Welcome to the forum. Have you verified that the injectors are being pulsed? You can check voltages, use ''noid'' lights, etc., listen for a ''click'' with a stethescope or even just use a wooden dowel from injector to ear. Compare voltages/sounds to the working bank. Compression spec for that engine is 185-213 psi. If all the cylinders on the ''dead'' bank are at about 150psi, it's possible there's a valve timing issue. However, if the injectors are opening but none of those cylinders are firing due to (for example) fouled plugs, the fuel could wash the oil from the cylinders enough to reduce compression. If plugs from the ''dead'' bank are wet with fuel, you could try doing a ''wet compression'' test -- if you're not familiar with that, ask for details. To what degree was the oil level too high? Is the knock still there, and if so where does it seem to be coming from?

See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89128 .

Sorry, please forget what I said about the heads. After further checking, it seems that the compression ratio difference is due to piston volume, not heads. That brings the area to look at back to timing.

Brighton and L (including the 30th Anniv.) got the 2.2, GT and Outback got DOHC 2.5.

A lamp filament coming loose and bridging/shorting isn't uncommon. The fuse blowing under that condition is expected. The dim lighting on the side with the blown fuse is a consequence of how Subaru designed the headlight circuit. The moral of the story is always check fuses first -- and if blown on a lighting circuit, suspect the lamp itself before doing more extensive work.

I don't remember any discussion of who did the engine rebuild, so what I'm about to mention may or may not be a possibility. However, it's something that could explain compression differences from one side of the engine to the other, assuming timing is okay. There have been a few different heads for the EJ22. Is it possible that one head on your '92 engine needed work, and someone replaced it with another? While the pre-'97 N/A EJ22 heads are 9.5:1, those for the EJ22T (turbo model) have a lowered compression ratio of 8.0:1. I'm just throwing this out there, in case nothing more likely is the cause.

The diagram I posted wasn't so much to show the belt, but how to release the tensioner so that the belt wouldn't have to be ''levered and stretched''.

The crank pulley bolt, when properly tightened, doesn't tend to loosen by itself. Typically what happens is that the timing belt is changed, and the bolt is inadequately torqued when the pulley is remounted. If work that required removing the pulley was done within the last several thousand miles, whomever did the work is likely responsible for the damage. Can you post a picture of the wear? It's sometimes possible to fix the problem without engine replacement. EDIT: John in KY beat me to it, but we're both thinking the same thing.

Back in 2003, Subaru was saying Bosal = OEM. See bottom of page 19 (not marked in PDF, but between 18 and 20 ) of http://www.endwrench.com/current/winter02-03/EngineRepair.pdf .

If those other engines were of the same compression ratio and tested identically, then perhaps this one is a little ''tired''. Since the compression readings are even, it's more likely that being lower would be due to ring wear rather than valve problems. If a ''wet'' compression test is done, and the numbers come up significantly, it could confirm ring-sealing problems.

Nipper made reference to the body cladding, but he apparently still doesn't like what can be seen (or surmised).

Well, if the Chinese are buying Hummer, we'll need a replacement...

Most larger automotive stores (AutoZone, Advance, etc.) will read OBD-II trouble codes for free. With that information, it would be a lot easier to make appropriate suggestions. Please write down the code(s), which will be in the form Pxxxx (where the x's are numbers), and get back to us with that.

Those would all likely get the job done, especially when a wire brush tool isn't handy. Pretty much anything that will expose uncorroded metal without leaving behind badly-conducting residue should work. Another practice that's counterproductive is application of grease to the posts and cable clamps before tightening them. Grease can minimize the corrosive effects of acid (although with a good battery and proper charging there's actually very little venting), but it should only be applied after the hardware is fully tightened.

The 2.2L engine is usually pretty solid, although it's good that the timing components were changed since it's an interference design in MY '99. ''Torque bind'' (use the search function if not familiar with the term) can be a problem with AWD -- was the trans worked on, and if so, what was done?

Okay, good. The reason I asked is because I've seen people use abrasive paper/cloth (emery, etc.). The abrasive particles can imbed in the lead of the posts -- that's a problem because the abrasive material is typically aluminum oxide or something similar, which is at best a semi-conductor. Drawing heavy current through the contamination will cause voltage drop and result in heat, further reducing the quality of the connection.

Compression pressure depends on several factors. Earlier EJ22 engines had 9.5:1 compression ratio, later (starting MY '97) went to 9.7:1. As Larry pointed out, altitude also makes a difference. If you're at 1/2 mile up in Tieton, WA, then 170 psi all around probably indicates a healthy engine, at least in that respect.

Perhaps if I explained the circuit path, it would help. Here's how the circuit works, and what happens if the right headlight fuse is out (or that side's relay doesn't complete the circuit): As Josh said (and the diagram he linked to shows), power is fed to the common point between the low and high filaments on both the left and right sides. Each side gets power through a separate relay and fuse. The ground side of the low filament for left and right headlights are wired together, and the same is true for the high filament. Imagine there's no power to the right common point, due to blown fuse, bad relay, etc. When low beams are selected, the ''free'' end of the low filaments are grounded, and the left headlight is lit. However, the current can also take a path through the left high filament, then back through the right high (since they're connected), and finally through the right low to ground. There's less of a voltage drop across high filaments (due to less resistance than lows), and the right low beam will glow dimly. If the high beams are selected, a similar current path is taken through the left low filament, right low, and then the right high. Because there are now two low and one high filament in series, the voltage drop is even greater than before, and the right side will barely light, if at all. That's why I suggested in post #7 that main box fuse #9 (the right headlight fuse) and its relay be checked. Obviously, if the fuse blew, the reason should be investigated (if it wasn't just due to a filament having bridged). It's also possible, although less likely, for there to be a wire break between #9 and the right headlight common point.

What did you use to clean the battery posts?