OB99W

Your description still reads like you're using the wrong marks. Before you give up in frustration, please describe exactly where the marks are that you're using on the crank and cam sprockets. Better yet, if you can take pictures and post them, that would allow us to see what might be wrong.

See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/VehicleWont.pdf

The FPR is located at the rear of the right (passenger) side fuel rail (the rail is what the fuel injectors are mounted to). The rubber vacuum hose should not have any fuel in it. If for some reason the FPR has to be removed, be sure to depressurize the fuel system beforehand. See page 10 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf for some general information about the FPR and how to release fuel system pressure. Based on your questions, I assume that you don't have a service manual for your car that provides details. If that's the case, I'd suggest getting one, which should make diagnosis and repair easier. Some manuals are available for a reasonable price on CDROM.

In addition to those articles, there are these specific to the 2.2L: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf

Keep in mind that smelling unburned fuel in the exhaust doesn't necessarily mean that the mixture is too rich -- sufficient misfire alone can cause that symptom. If the exhaust is sooty/black, that's a better indicator of an excessively rich mixture. Assuming the engine actually is running too rich, a possible cause is FPR (fuel pressure regulator) failure. The diaphragm can rupture, and fuel can be directly sucked in via the FPR's vacuum hose. Pulling that hose at the FPR and verifying that there isn't gas there might be worth doing.

Why are you dismissing the P0102 code? Poor idle and stalling definitely can be symptoms when that code is triggered. The definition for P0102 is ''Mass air flow sensor circuit low input''. While that can be caused by a bad MAF, it's more likely to be due to a bad connection in the MAF circuit. Since you already replaced the MAF (and especially if that was with a new, not used, part), it's possible that an electrical connection is loose or corroded. Since replacement of the MAF ''seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks'', a poor connection might be right at the MAF itself.

The flashing AT temp warning light just indicates that the TCU (transmission control unit) noticed that there was a previous electrically-related problem. It's even possible that the fault was not in the transmission itself. For example, data from the engine TPS (throttle position sensor) is used by the trans, and a problem with the TPS can trigger a trans fault code. In fact, a TPS fault can even cause torque bind. Reading the trans code could provide info helpful to diagnosing the problem.

The CTS is screwed into the water (coolant) pipe, kind of buried under the intake manifold. Before replacing parts, some more info and diagnosis might be helpful. When was the air filter last replaced? When was the PCV system last looked at (valve checked/cleaned or replaced, tubing checked for obstructions)? Subaru gauges can be highly inaccurate. How many actual gallons are you using to do the ''160-180 miles/tank'' you mentioned? The tank holds nearly 16 gals -- if we assume refilling of 14 gals, averaging 170 miles on that would imply about 12 mpg. Should that be the case, it's surprising that such low mileage is only generating misfire codes.

Are those the only codes? If so, one possibility is the CTS (engine coolant temperature sensor) going bad. If it's telling the ECU that the engine hasn't warmed up when it actually has, you can get the symptoms you've described. The ECU doesn't have a way of knowing the CTS data is wrong, and therefore doesn't generate a code.

Sorry about your circumstances. Assuming it's not a problem with the alt, there are a couple of possibilities related to the crank pulley. Make sure that its bolt is properly tightened -- it's not uncommon for it to be insufficiently torqued when work such as timing belt replacement has been done, and for it to further loosen as it runs. If loose, the pulley and key can be damaged, but much worse is that the crankshaft itself can as well. Another possibility with the crank pulley is deterioration of the rubber that couples the two pieces of it. Initially that doesn't typically cause a vibration, but rather a squealing sound.

Apparently certain aspects of the ad have caught others' attention: http://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/2119928/Arrgh_Subaru_commercial#Post2119928 .

It's for the nonexistent TCS (traction control system).

Gary, the oil pressure switch/sender should allow the warning light to be off with as little as about 3 psi. The spec is for the pump to produce greater than 13 psi at 800 rpm. If the cause isn't something obvious, then you should probably put a gauge on it before doing any work. That way you'll know whether the oil pump needs attention, or there are excessive clearances, etc., or if it's more likely that the switch/sender is the culprit.

If the timing belt installation is correct, verify that the cam sprockets aren't reversed in position. The left (driver's) one should have reluctors on the back for the cam position sensor. Also, a bad connection at the cam sensor and especially the crank sensor should be checked for.

See page 5 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf . The relatively prominent ''Piston position mark'' is the ''arrow'' (don't use). The less-obvious ''Alignment mark'' is the correct one for timing belt installation. The way you're measuring it is correct, and you should read about 0.7 ohms. I wonder if the meter isn't ''zeroed'' -- what's the reading if you just touch the two meter probes to each other? By the way, it's unlikely the coil pack has suddenly failed.

Be certain that you are using the correct marks on the sprockets -- it's the ''lines'' or ''hash marks'', not the arrows. Using the wrong marks is a very common mistake. Here are links to the EndWrench 2.2L articles: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf The coil is actually a coil ''pack'', with two primaries and two secondaries. If the manual indicates 0.7 ohms (plus/minus 10%), that's for one coil primary. It's possible you are measuring across the two primaries, and 1.4 ohms would be the expected reading in that case.

Not being certain of the pressure or where it was measured makes it difficult to diagnose the problem. Typical fuel pressure from the fuel pump should be a bit higher than what you stated. However, it's important to check the fuel rail pressure, which should be about 32 psi if the regulator is working correctly. If it's too high there, the mixture could be too rich, resulting in P0172.

Welcome to the forum. Are you saying that the cigarette lighter not working and battery/brake warning lights coming on happen simultaneously? Aside from the lighter issue, those two warning lights appearing together typically happens when the alternator is failing.

Right, because otherwise there's a heater core leak. Google ''dew point temperature'' for more info.

Assuming that what gets the tail lights working is the parking light switch on the top of the steering column, then I agree that the tail/illumination relay is a prime suspect. As Cougar said, that relay is located on the under-dash fuse panel (at the top, unfortunately, because it's a bit tight in there). It's the middle of the three relays.

Clockspring?

A compression test might reveal whether the rings are worn enough to be allowing excessive blow-by. However, given the sensor oil-contamination, taking another look at the PCV could be helpful. You mentioned changing the PCV valve in the first post of this thread -- was the replacement an OEM Subaru part, and did you make sure that the associated ''plumbing'' is all clear? Also, has the new air filter become oil-coated?

Thanks for the feedback and the pictures. Assuming that the pics remain available, I suspect that this thread will be referred to when anyone else wonders what that ''goo'' is.

Your post doesn't indicate model or year, but your profile mentions a BD 1996 GT. The body style, of course, doesn't matter, but a '96 GT should have a DOHC 2.5L engine -- if so, it's certainly possible to have HG problems. If some of the coolant has been displaced by exhaust gases, then the temp gauge could be showing that. Furthermore, sometimes coolant won't be in full contact with the engine temperature sensor, so that the ECU doesn't properly control radiator fan operation. If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest checking the coolant level -- not just in the reservoir tank, but also by removing the radiator cap when the engine is cool enough and making sure it's full. Do a search on this forum for ''burp'' or ''burping'' to find info on being certain that you've filled the cooling system completely. If the system needs coolant, and you don't have any external leaks (and haven't done anything that would otherwise explain it), then HG issues are unfortunately likely. EDIT: I just found one of your previous threads. It seems that the possibility of bad HGs and what the symptoms might be has been considered before. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96104

You (and anyone else who finds the articles useful) are very welcome, Nick. ''OB99W -- scouring the Internet for Subaru information so you don't have to.''