OB99W

Yes, if it affects the ground connection (the connector on the lead only makes the ''hot'' connection -- the shield ''floats'' at the sensor end). Perhaps the info in the link doesn't make that clear.

The P0325 code indicates a problem in the knock sensor circuit. It's often caused by a defective (cracked) knock sensor, but can also be due to corroded connections, wiring damage, etc. First see if this helps: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995Subaru.pdf . If not, there might be a bad connection at the knock sensor's lead, the ECU, or somewhere between. The spec for the knock sensor resistance is between 400 kohms and 700 kohms, if you want to check it.

Thanks John. To be honest, I haven't checked whether those links are in the USMB repair manual. If they're not, and someone would like to add that info, perhaps the additional links for the 2.5 DOHC in post #6 of http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100489 might also be included.

Apparently has been acted on already. From dotster: Domain Name Expires legacygt.com 18-JUN-12 It seems that the domain listed above has already been renewed. The domain should be reactivated shortly. You do not need to renew it now. If you still see this message in 72 hours, please contact us. EDIT: I just checked, and the site is back online.

If you want to find out who the registrant is, etc., then run a ''whois'' on the domain name. Wait a sec... Okay, look at http://whois.domaintools.com/legacygt.com and scroll down to the Whois Record.

Could you define ''seized up'', and how you're making that determination? Also, what specific lubricant are you using?

Yes, that was one of the solutions mentioned in the thread of the second link I gave. Congrats, you're welcome, glad to help.

From the pics: 1) You need a key 2) Can't tell for sure, but it probably wouldn't hurt to have a crank sprocket. The crank nose (especially the keyway) might have sustained damage, but getting things further apart could be necessary to tell. There are ways of dealing with that possibility. 3) The timing belt looks to be in rough shape. Besides changing it, there are other parts (idlers, tensioner, possibly water pump) that should probably be done at the same time. There are lots of previous threads here discussing that. When (not ''if'' ) the t-belt gets changed, be sure to check for loose back plate screws on the oil pump, since that can cause the crank seal to leak. 2.2 Liter timing belt info: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

A jump of four teeth is significant, although your friend could get lucky. You said ''When both valves are closed on #s 1 & 3, they hold air from a compressor.'' -- if leak-down percentage wasn't determined, that might not be enough to guarantee that there's no valve damage. Still, its probably worthwhile to replace the timing belt and related parts and see what happens. Depending on what was done when the belt was last replaced, it might be time for a water pump, some seals, etc. Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48091 Timing belt info, especially useful to those who might not have done it before: Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf 2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StepEWAug07.pdf EDIT: Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187

If the vacuum hoses look okay, fit snugly, and aren't clogged, they probably are not the cause of the code. The black part (nearest the fender) is the baro sensor, and the other is the ''pressure sources switching solenoid valve''. There should be an emissions label on the underside of the hood, which would show the parts and vacuum hose routing. Note that in the thread I linked to, the last post stated ''fixed problem, took barometic pressure sensor, from car i took, motor from, they were slightly different from 95 to 97,''. You might try to get a baro sensor for an EJ22 of the era of the engine that was installed. If you're getting parts from a JY, might as well pick up the solenoid valve as well. EDIT: If you haven't already seen this, it might also provide some insight: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84813

Welcome to the forum. I assume you're saying that a 2.2L (EJ22) was installed in place of an original 2.5L (EJ25). There was a recent thread which dealt with a P1143 code, which is very similar to the P0106. In particular, the resolution of the problem in that case might be helpful. See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99613

A disconnected crank position sensor will kill spark and fuel injector pulses -- that can be used to advantage when prepping an engine for first start after major work. Also, an oil pressure gauge could be temporarily installed to verify pressure is building during cranking. Filling the oil filter is good practice -- I do it even when just changing oil & filter.

No sweat Gary, I didn't think John was finding fault with what I posted. Some websites seem to be set up so that ''You can't get there from here.''

The airbag inspection issue has come up before. See these two threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65967 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96015

Perhaps I should add another disclaimer to my post -- ''If you don't like NAPA's website, contact their webmaster.'' Or maybe I need a generic sig line -- ''Any link provided in my post shouldn't necessarily be taken as an endorsement of the linked website's contents.''

We don't know for sure what happened. If the timing belt did jump, it might do it again and make things worse -- or not, it's a gamble. Flatbed ''towing'' isn't inexpensive, but it's the safest approach in terms of the engine and protective of AWD. If you elect to tow, you might also consider asking the shop to pull the covers and look at the belt timing before trying to run the engine.

Sorry, the session expired. Here's how to get the listings: Go to http://www.napaonline.com/ Click ''SEARCH NAPA CATALOG'' Enter ''Subaru brake pads'' for Search(keyword) Under ''Refine by Models'' choose ''Legacy'' Under ''Refine by Engine'' choose ''2.5 L 2457 CC H4 DOHC 16 VALVE'' Under ''Refine by Years'' choose ''1998'' Under ''Refine by Category'' choose ''Pads & Shoes'' EDIT: If the info is wrong, blame NAPA, not me.

For a '98 Legacy 2.5, I found this: http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ragefzevyv32zwm4q50te445))/Results.aspx?Ne=100000&Nty=1&N=2068008+26261+3068022+3999999+101998

As has already been suggested, damaged tone rings could be the problem. So could a corroded tip on a wheel sensor, or even excessive hub runout. I've mentioned this before, but haven't seen a response indicating it was checked, so ... Have you verified that the battery voltage is okay, and ground connection is solid? ABS electronics can malfunction if the supply voltage is too low, sometimes indicating multiple faults. If the voltage is adequate, then the problem is more likely at a wheel.

Yes, the 2.5 is an interference design. However, the fact that the engine starts and runs might mean things aren't too bad yet. If the belt skips only one tooth, it can affect performance quite a bit, but still not have valve contact. Normally you'd see about 180 PSI compression if all was okay -- if it's measuring 135 PSI or somewhat higher on both #1 and #3, the belt is probably off by one tooth. Since the '99 is a DOHC, whether intake, exhaust, or both cams are mistimed would make a difference. Assuming there hasn't been valve contact yet, it would probably be prudent not to wait to have the problem looked into.

For a ''wet'' test, a tablespoon or so of oil is added to the cylinder via the spark plug hole, the engine is cranked a couple of revolutions to help spread the oil, and compression retested. If rings weren't sealing well, the added oil will help and compression pressure increases somewhat (although with horizontal cylinders, the test is less than ideal). If there's no or very minimal improvement, the low compression is due to valve leakage (assuming the valve timing is correct).

MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil Note that I'm defining it, not endorsing it.

A good point -- if the coolant reservoir has a lot of sludge, the rest of the cooling system might also, and need some attention.

Unfortunately, you have one particularly bad cylinder. Hopefully, it's ''just'' due to interference-caused valve damage, and some head work can resolve that. However, the question is whether the remaining three cylinders are okay. The leak-down numbers aren't revealing enough (good engines can show surprisingly high leak-down), but compression of 130 PSI is low if the measurement was made properly. As long as the procedure was correct (clean oil, engine warmed, plugs removed, throttle fully open, battery sufficiently charged so that cranking speed was adequate), closer to 175 PSI would be expected. If the 130 PSI compression readings were due to not doing the test properly, then you should redo it. If the numbers are still low, do a ''wet'' test to see if they improve. It's also possible for a slight mistiming to cause lowered compression. Once you know more precisely what's going on, you can determine whether one or both heads need to come off, etc.

I can appreciate your concern. As I mentioned previously, the type of failure you experienced isn't that common. One possibility is that your alternator was still putting out something close to 12 volts, which would be enough to keep the warning light off, but insufficent to charge the battery. You might consider adding a voltmeter. There are some available that have adjustable visual/audible alarms for over- or under-voltage. Here's a link to one such gauge: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/elite-7-color-volt-gauge.aspx .