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Does anyone know the size, thread count, and grade of the ball joint pinch bolt? Car is a 1999 Legacy Outback. Thanks for any help rendered....the part number is 901550072 but I cant find any other information

Well, the I've seen the pump leak not only from the o ring on the reservoir, but the gasket on the back of the pump itself where the housing comes together. I know for a '99 legacy the part number for the reseal kit is 34419AA150, its pretty cheap and worth a shot

Is there any chance the engine overheated before you got it? I drove my 2.5dohc from 89,000 miles till 119,400 with all the proper maintenence and no problems at all. Until the head gaskets went. Then a mishap from a dealer led to an overheat (they never plugged the fans in after the hg job), the next day it sounded like a diesel, a couple of days after it broke down on the highway with a spun bearing. I have the records from the previous owner, they all seemed in order. Hopefully this isn't the case with your engine...but I second what mdjdc said :-\

I wouldn't be suprised if this was mechanic error, this particular dealership has had less then steller results with this car. I havent gotten to take a look at the oil pump yet, this is just what they've told me so far. What I find odd about it is, shoulden't the oil pressure light have come on if the pump did fail? I know the bulb is good because it illuminates on startup.

Anyone here ever see an oil pump in a remanufactured shortblock fail before its first oil change? The thing had less then 2k miles on it and it gave out. No oil pressure light on the dash, just some noises an engine should never make and a complete lack of power. It starved both heads for oil and developed a pleasant sounding knock... Engine was a DOHC 2.5, replaced by a dealership with all subaru parts. Its now getting another reman block and heads under warrenty.

Latest is I just got the car back last Friday, its been over 4 months. :cool: The idle is a little rough but the dealer can not explain why. Its got a new shortblock and drivers side head. Compression and leakdown tests are good, timing is correct and theres no vacuum leak. I also checked the injector wires and plug wires...its a mystery. I'm still dealing with them...all I can say is avoid Loman Subaru like the plague.

Little update....as per the mechanic the valves are adjusted correctly, compression and leakdown tests came up good, there are no vacuum leakes, the mounts are ok and the timing is dead on. This is a mystery, anyone have any ideas?

There should be white tape around one from each side, I believe those go towards the front of the car. The other two will have a black marking on them.

I've just been through every vacuum line, no leaks that I can find. I'm starting to think the mechanic did mess up my valves, looks like tomorrow the cars back in the shop

ahh crap these guys have messed up my car enough, it took them three months most of which without a loaner car (luckily SOA stepped up to the plate and paid for a rental near the end of this ordeal) I hope its a simple vacuum leak, otherwise this wont be fun

The car is a 5spd and the idle is rough with the clutch in as well as in neutral with it out:-\ Thanks for the suggestion, but I dont think thats it. I'm going to have to get a vaccum gauge I guess, and take it to someone with a feeler gauge who can check my valve lash.

Out of curiosity, what kind of damage would the engine sustain if the valves were too tight? They did have me driving the car when the valves were mis-adjusted, and this is the same head. I hope they got the clearances right, at least it no longer miss fires as it did.

Actually, now that vacuum lines have been mentioned...I noticed now that for the first time ever, the cruise control seems to have a little bit of difficulty in keeping a constant speed. Nothing major, just +- 1 or 2mph, but this is something its never had a problem with before.

I know the injectors are hooked up properly, I checked that as well. The valve clearances are something I don't have the ability to check, I certainly hope they were adjusted properly. :-\ Tomorrow I'll check the all the vacuum lines. And yeah, square one I guess...this place really messed up. Everything from allowing the car to fall off a jack, to forgetting to plug in the cooling fans, to messing up the valve clearances even ignoring a progressively worse engine knock. Can't say I'm impressed with this mechanics track record.

Well, I finally have my car back from a 3 month long ordeal in which a dealer mechanic managed to destroy a healthy DOHC EJ25. Some background, the shortblock has now been replaced as well as the drivers side head. Both are SOA remanufactured parts. Wires and plugs are new NGK and subaru wires. EGR system did bring up a P0400 code, but the valve was "cleaned" by the mechanic and is no longer causing the code. The motor mounts were checked by the mechanic and found to be good. The engine is not miss firing and does run smooth under acceleration, but the idle is rough. The rpms do hold steady though according to the tach. Its enough to shake the car when stopped at lights. The dealers mechanic can't find the problem, he recomends I drive the car for a couple of days to see if it gets better or worse. For obvious reasons, I don't have much faith in this mechanic, but I'm stuck having him do the work. Anyone have any ideas on what I should check?

I wouldent go as far as saying "a knock is nothing, ignore it". I'm in the middle of a three month long ordeal with a dealership who managed to take a healthy engine (minus headgaskets and some minor oil leaks, the oil was always toppeed off and changed regularly) and make it seize after it developed a knock. Turns out the engine spun a bearing and the dealer is installing a new shortblock. The knocking started with just a bit of noise on the occasional startup for a second or two. This progressed within three days to a seized engine on the side of the highway The dealer told me the same thing...the noise is nothing, ignore it. When it began to show itself on every start they said the same thing. Then they paid the tow bill... Theres a good chance that your engine is fine, but I'd recomend finding out where the knock is coming from.

The temper control reached a new high when I stopped in later on to speak with a general manager of the dealership. Service was closed by that time as it was after 5:00, so it was a sales manager. His response when I requested a loaner car was "maybe its time to think about trading in". After they destroyed it. Yes, all of this has been documented and SOA knows about the entirety of it. Unfortuneately they say this is almost all dealer side and they claim to not be able to regulate dealer actions. Considering their name is above the door I find this hard to believe. Im sick of argueing and complaining to these people though, I'll see what Mr. Tomohiko Ikeda or whoever answers the letter I wrote him has to say.

Montana, thats what I asked them :-\ they didn't have an answer. I did talk to their manager, he simply said they don't arrange for outside loaners, they also said they should have one coming back by the end of the week...I forwarded this information to SOA who assured me if the dealer does not arrange for a car by the end of the week, they will.

Well, the official diagnosis now is that the main bearings went. The dealer has agreed to replace the block....with a few catches, for starters apparently the closest warehouse that has one is in Denver, Co. SOA confirmed this when I called up. Other catch is the dealer is out of loaner cars.

Just bad timing, are any other bulbs out anywhere in the car? Anyway, once the unit is out you can find bulbs that will fit at radioshack. The only annoying part about the job is removing the cable attached to the temperature selector. It can be removed at the unit itself, but I've heard that its easier to unclip it at the other end.

I remember those things, had one on an old 1990 legacy. I think I'll have to order a set, they were usefull. Thanks for the part number

Yes, the low beams should turn off when the high beams are on, at least on the original headlights. Subarus switch ground for much of their electrical system, what I find curious from the paint drawing is, it seems like the blue wire would be a seperate and switched positive lead just for the running light (I'm guessing the blue mystery light is a DRL?)

After I realized I wasen't dealing with the most competent of dealerships I began documenting everything. I also just submitted my complaint to the BBB, I'll see where that gets me and see what the mechanic says about the engine on monday. If things don't go right I'll be contacting those 7 on your side and help me howard things on the local news. They seem to love giving attention to buisnesses who practice shady tactics. At this point I don't know how comfterble I'll feel with this mechanic doing any more work, let alone if he attempts to repair the engine instead of replace it. I would like to have another subaru mechanic at least look at the engine, but it will be difficult to get to them as it won't crank.

Just glanced at the service manul from a '99 ej25 dohc, it shows two diferent torque values on the caps, 7.2 ftlb for the exhaust and 14.5 ftlb for the intake. I'd still suspect the oil though. Either a leak or contamination.

I just did a few google searches and didnt find anything linking that recall to a 93.