dmanaenk

Open drivers door and look around the door frame. There should be a metal plate with production month.

If those are the parts he's looking for - part numbers are 60112ga020 and 030

Heh, I was looking for a brighton with MT. Just less stuff that could break down on an old car. And I hate TCS/ABS. Tach is very easy to put in, as is cruise control, and that's all I need The only issue with brighton models - they are the cheapest, thus highly likely were serviced with cheapest parts at cheapest places, so you have to inspect very carefully.

Can you specify which part are you talking about? Is it in the attached pdf? IMAGE PRINT.pdf

Putting seafoam in the tank is a waste of money. Buy some other injector cleaner. I'd put 1/2 into PCV/other hose, the other 1/2 into oil. 15 miles is fine. Just don't go CT with seafoam in your oil.

What, search does not work? here's a post with pics. Read the whole tread for more info.

Had the same yesterday. After having some fun in snow on monday got pretty bad vibration at speeds >55mph. Had my tires remonted on a different set of rims (which I planned to do anyways). Fine so far. No idea it were tires or rims, but I think I can exclude driveshafts for now.

Yeah, I'm interested in that too. I am currently looking for a seat from late 90' GT model, which is height adjustable with lumbar support

99 MY Forester is SOHC 2.5 engine. It has different headgasket issues, which are fixed with proper conditioner added to a coolant once in a couple of years. Wheel bearings would not be such an issue for me, cause they are a lot easier to fix than HGs. Stay away from 98 outback, or decrease the price by 2k and keep savings for engine swap when HG blows.

Thanks. And where do I stick CC unit?

I love the sound my 2.2 makes at 4-5k, above 6k it starts to choke though, so I never reached 8k And mine is a MT, so I suppose CC will not do what your's does. So any thoughts on my loose 20pin connector under dash?

I recently bought fog lights kit and cruise kit for my 96 brighton. I installed fogs today and came across a loose black 20pin connector near the fuse box under dash. Does it mean that there's no point in searching for a cruise control unit connector behind my glove compartment when I get to installing CC (installation instructions say connector is behind glove compartment and its black 20pin one)? And where the hell I am supposed to fit CC if what I have found is indeed a CC connector? There seems to be no space for a box of that size... Thanks for any advice.

Michelins can be good tires, they are just overpriced to much. There's always a better option at half the price of michelins. Thats what I generally think of Michelins. As for tirerack and CR. CR is a business (so they might be trying to promote some stuff) and I am not clear on their methodology. Like they test winter tires and RSI ends up being in the bottom, when scandinavian auto magazines rate them in the top. The problem with tirerack - is that those ratings are self reported. That is people who do report - decide to do it. And this decision might be systematically different across different tire categories. For example people that bought cheap tires don't care about ratings and and those who bought michelins feel screwed up and write a great review so that some other screws up as well The point is - one never knows why those people wrote a review. I would have a lot less problems with tirerack ratings if every single customer had to rate tires say at 10k miles.

Sorry, I probably did not express what I wanted to say well enough. I am not talking about directional stability. I am talking about the following - say you go into a curved exit with a recommended speed of 30mph doing 45-50mph. WR were sliding sideways (all 4 of them) a little on road imperfections (like a bump, crack etc) at the speed TT weren't. That's all I wanted to say. And yes, I had my wheels aligned before I took those tires for a test. And also my car does not have traction control, otherwise it would have probably kicked in.

Little intro first: I come from a country where majority of drivers use dedicated winter tires. So I am used to good winter grip. Keep in mind that you need winter tires not only because you get snow and ice, but because allseason tire compound looses a lot of traction in temperatures below 40s. So even on dry highway at 37f winter tire has better grip. Back to TT & WR Few month ago I decided to try TT and WR and see the difference for myself. I used them for about 2 weeks each. Not much of course, but I did ~500-600 miles on each set, so it should have been enough to decide for myself. In snow they both were ok, in ice breaking TT sucked and WR was better but not ok for me. On highway late in 2 week trial TT felt better than WR mostly because they weren't slipping sideways as much when I was going fairly fast over joints in concrete during fairly sharp turn. Or WR might have been unlucky here because it was colder when I was testing WRs. And both were worse than winter tire. What I did not like in TT - when my rears were starting to slip the traction was decreasing a lot. When WRs were just starting to slip -no big decrease in traction. I also tried them in slush. They were about the same, WR maybe slightly better. I did not test them in wet conditions. I do not care about ride comfort and noise level of the tire so I have nothing to say there. So I did not like both of them. Winter tire is the way to go for me. As for other choices - I do not know much about Traction T/A. Only that they are fairly good in snow compared to other all-season. I was driving a car with falken 512 last summer. I did not like their wet grip much. But most people I asked about them seem to be happy. In a discussion on another forum we conculded that the key difference was that I was driving 60-series tire, and good ones are 55 and below. Those two have different treadwear rating. Never heard about 512 snow capabilities, but I would suspect they are below average. And a general note about tirerack ratings - I personally only look at negative reviews by people driving sporty cars, who did more than 5-10k on tires and who specify which tires they used to drive before. Other ratings/reviews make no sense to me. As well as overall ratings. Sure enough, when you change old&bald oem tire with any new one you will get immidiate (after initial ~200 miles) improvement, but it says nothing about the tire.

Just make sure they don't do this free tire rotation without asking. I was chaning oil this winter and as I was paying and preparing to leave the guy tells me "I forgot to tell you - we have rotated your tires, it's a free promotion". So I looked at them - and what do I see - my directional winter tires are all facing the wrong way Stupid idiots, there is an arrow on the sidewall showing rotation direction.

Tried both, WR&TT. They both are fairly crappy in snow/icq compared to decent winter tire. WR slightly better in winter but were scary on highway.

If you forester is produced before 03/31/98 then part number is 84001FC000, if later 84001FC001. No idea if these are any different. As for clips - weird enough, but they are not all the same. Set of six includes 2 of 91059FC041 (these go on lower corners) , 2 of 91059FC080 (upper corners), one 91059FC090 and one 91017aa010 (these two go on along upper edge). All these are at 1stsubaru, just search by part number. Might be other places, I did not check. Easier way - just go to 1stsubaru and search your car. You'll have a pic and prices for your car.

Here, have a look http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=HPAS I do not advise picking tires based on positive reviews on tirerack, but I would definitely run away from tires that have that many poor reviews. And remember, AWD does not improve traction, it just helps manage the traction you already have.

It's not the point. re92 are poor tires and many people get rid of them after less than 1k miles.

Do they do it on their own as well or just at jiffy lube? I don't go there, am I in the clear other than recall?

1. Do a search on "tick of death" 2. Go to cartalk and read reviews of mechanics working on subaru in your area http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/find.html

I guess my experience of driving in europe does not apply here, cause speeds at which max cold pressure might screw you up will get you license revoked. But in europe its true, here: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=72&currentpage=8 Another thing against max cold pressure - when you inflate it too max in winter and then in becomes 40 degrees warmer - your cold pressure goes up past max, and that's a bad idea. I usually go with 34-36psi and I check/adjust my pressure regularly.

I did not find those screws hard. Here's a link, its for 96 legacy, but I'm pretty sure 98 is the same. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/78/67/0900823d801e7867.jsp It has a picture. You will have to remove the door trim panel before you start. And be extra careful and slow in removing door corner finisher panel. It just sits in sockets but those a pretty tight, and if you pry it too hard it can break.