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Everything posted by dmanaenk
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Decided to test the light too. Came on at a traffic light on a slight upgrade, went away when I reached hilltop. Did not light up for a few hills after that. Came on again when I was driving in a parking lot at the mall. Did not come on when I started the car after shopping. The car took in 13.4 gallons after that. I wonder if it is supposed to stay on once gas level drops below smth?
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I think he's talking about this car Well, from my experience from about a year ago when I started searching for a Subaru awd wagon with a stick shift, milage around 100k and 2.2 engine - those are very rare in MN. For 5k I would have bought this one, if there are maintanance records and major stuff done recently (like belts/clutch). So go, look it over and bargain.
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I do not think that selling to subaru enthusiast will be worth the money. He/she will generally be able to figure out a lot about condition of the car and bargain accordingly. I think you are better off selling it to regular folk, but for that you'd have to return the car to as close to stock as you can, even if you'll have to buy some parts for that (like oem wheels). I personally wouldn't buy a car if I knew that some 18 year old kid messed with it. Right now I would expect the engine, clutch and tranny syncros to be abused, and would adjust the price down accordingly. At 116k I'd say the condition of the car will affect the price a lot. If you have done belts/seals and stuff recently, changed the clutch etc and bring the car to stock (or at least put oem steering wheel/airbag, remove short shifter) - you can expect price around good-exc condtion on KBB. So If I personally had to sell it - I'd return it to stock and sell it off craigslist/local paper. P.S. And I would never understand mods like removing driver airbag for a fancier steering wheel.
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Do a search. There are couple of treads concerning CC install. If 10? prong black connector is not behind glove compartment (that's where it was supposed to be according to installation instructions), then it is under the dash. In my case (96' brighton) finding mounting place under dash was obvious - there were two bolts sticking out of the metal plate.
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Carfax will show open recall (WWP-99?) if coolant conditioner was not added. Should be still possible to do it for free in a dealership. I am not very familiar with recall -but I think coolant conditioner cures the problem completely, and has to be added every time cooling system is flushed, or every 100k miles if not flushed ( which is bad idea anyway). Someone will have to correct me here. 2.2L on legacy stopped in 99, on outback in 96?. You can probably find 97-99 outback with 2.2 engine swapped into. These older models have been around enough time to figure out major issues, 00+ models - not yet. Check http://forum.subaru-faq.ru/ for issues arising when subarus are exposed to russian driving conditions/bad fuel/oil.
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00-02 outbacks/foresters with 2.5L may develop external coolant leak via headgasket. You have to add special subaru conditioner to your coolant once in a while to avoid it. Other problems are minor - do a search and you'll find some wheel bearings etc. P.S. you are aware of import duty of 5k euro, right?
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If you're getting allseason I've heard BFG Traction T/A is fairly balanced tire did not try them though. You are probably talking about Nokian tires. Do a search and couple of topics will pop up, mostly about Nokian WR. Those are better than any other all-season tire in terms of winter/snow/ice traction. Not so sure about rain though and not so good in terms of dry grip (but no worse than average allseason tire)