dmanaenk

So which one do you need? 91162*B part number is 91017AA251

Look here. Although it says 2000 for 96, it is most likely for auto. Manuals are at 1000, and trailer has to have brakes. Towing a Corolla-sized car with a 96 manual subaru? Hm, lets just say that this kind of idea will never occur to me. Not even in an auto with a transmission cooler installed.

Is the speedo digital or analog?

I disagree. I think clutch grinds when cable is too loose, and pedal down does not disengage it completely. If the cable it too tight (because of clutch wearing down and thinning) it is always a little disengaged and might slip. If not taken care of quick - it will kill the clutch, but if loosened quickly - it might last for some time.. So I think there is a slight chance that loosening few nuts will help. Or at least will give him time to properly shop for clutch job.

Sure Here's a pic of my underhood with clutch lever circled http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14079&cat=500 Once you get there its just 2 nuts to loosen a turn or two - 10mm outer one and 12mm inner.

Not yet. Cable clutch is easy to adjust (at least on my car). There's a chance that if you loosen it a few mm, it will last few more months. But this huge airbox seems to be blocking the way, at least that's how it seems to me right now.

Look at the top of last page!

Heh, cable clutch then. Can find where the cable attaches to a lever? Somewhere to the left of where the clutch cylinder is on the pic.

That's what I think

Heheh, my legacy is lower than stock, and I never hit those

Here's a pic of a manual 98 on ebay.

Didn't I post a FSM scan on last page?

There were no 96 auto outbacks with ej22. If you only need outback for ground clearance - I would not discount regular legacies with 5spd and ej22. Around 100k suspension will need replacing anyway and you can put new outback suspension on legacy and gain the ground clearance. Apart from that - there's a common problem with 96 5spd - some spacer in shifter linkage rattles.

Here's a pic for you, from 99 Factory service manual. For reference - on the right is a side of brake booster - round thing attached to the firewall.

Before you shell out $500 for clutch, make sure there's no easy fix. Check fluid in clutch cylinder, check that there is some freeplay of clutch pedal.

Nope. It will just stall, or go..

Sure you will smell the slipping clutch going uphill. Don't know about subarus, but had that in other makes. And I was not suggesting first gear as a test of worn clutch. I was talking about slow to engage clutch.

If the clutch was slipping - you'd smell it when accelerating hard (make sure your cabin vent sucks air from outside) or going uphill in high gear. If it does not smell -it sounds more like clutch being slow to engage for some reason. See if your car jumps and stalls when you put it in first and drop the clutch pedal.

Just removing will no longer be sufficient soon OBD4-5-6 will be keeping track of it, voiding your warranty and automatically sending tickets for reckless driving for anyone without mandatory safety equipment.

This just adds to what Nipper was saying. People will be driving balder tires on average, offseting positive effect of traction control.

I'm not too worried. By the time I buy one, there will be software hack around it

I believe that 95, and 96 legacy GT/L/brighton and 97 L/brighton have short grill, while all others have tall grill. And its all because of bumper being different.

Looking at this I'd say stay away. But thats me, from 1k miles away. You, with only 150 - can (should) go and have a look. Ebay is ok for local buying like this, just make sure you don't pay with cash.

The only electric thing I really want for my Brighton - heated mirrors. Might waste some time in spring on this.

It wasn't all flat there