dmanaenk

Gauge at E and car only takes 10 gallons? Thats what you get for running cheapest gas and not dumping some kind of injector cleaner into the tank once in a while. Better gas already has that stuff in it.

Yeah, I had that in mind, but thought why rebuild now, if there's a chance it is in good shape. I knew the milage on them when I was buying (~60kmiles) so I though I'd give it a shot without rebuild.

I'm cheap and not-so-risk-averse, so I got used Japanese OEM struts off ebay, with stock GT-B springs and Bilstein struts. So far so good. Bilsteins are rebuildable, and springs are a lot stiffer than OEM on Brighton.

Online dealers sell small bottles of touch-up paint for around $6-$8. Should be fine for 03, for 97 might not be a good option if you car color has faded.

Check your tire pressure, if it was up to specs in winter it is most likely too high now, which increases mpg.

What link do you want? Here's a diagram for you. Storage box part number is 91047aa011 and runs around $50 and cover is 91044AA550, costs 140 at Subiegal's store.

If it isn't clicking yet and its OEM - I wouldn't touch it until it starts clicking. Chances are that Autozone axle you buy tomorrow might get torn and start clicking before already open OEM one. Mine pass. side boot is open for last 10k miles and is yet to click. Although I have a j/y spare laying around, in case I need to replace that.

OEM spoilers require drilling 5 holes in the hatch. I have one waiting for install. If you are getting one that is prepainted for the color your car had 10 years ago, be prepared that it will look a tad different, due to color fading. JDM ones (BG5 is just a body code) have third brake light in the spoiler, while USDM do not. There are also OEM replicas available, which are lighter than OEM and hold fine with heavy-duty double sided tape, no drilling

Nope. All 97s had drums.

First, I'm gonna change the hose I used to mount sender in a convenient location. As of now it is a braided hose and seems like at times I have two ground connections, one going along braided hose (however gauge does not work while only grounded through the hose braiding), and a direct grounding. I thought that I might be screwing the resistance reading somehow.

Cheap mechanical 0-100 gauge showed 10psi, cheap 0-30 showed 12psi. All at warm idle where electric one shows 4psi. Not great, but not that far from lower bound in FSM. And there are some weird electrical issues I don't get, I thought that electrical sender is just a variable resistance, and the gauge measures current. Resistance on electric gauge I measure is wildly different at the same rpms depending on whether sender is connected to the gauge or not. Maybe my multimeter needs a new battery or smth...

Yeah, if the "certified car" is over 3 years/36km it only comes with powertrain warranty, but not only the remaining factory powertrain, but extra 12month/100kmiles. At least that's what is says here.

Basically its an inspection bundled with a service contract. Generally I stay away from service contracts, but it all depends on the price and converage of one. Subaru certified cars by default are bundled with a crappy contract called "Classic Plan". The good one is "Gold plan" which is almost like bumper-to-bumper coverage, and if the car is under 3yo/36km (still have basic warranty) your can get that whether its a certified car or not. So I would probably shop for a car with remaining basic warranty, figure out how much would a "gold plan" cost separately, and compare that to price of certified car with "gold plan" Good luck.

I'm no expert, but here's a dude selling smth similar

I have a storage box between spare tire and cover, I got it from a j/y car I was pulling other stuff from. Seems like its an oem option, fits perfectly and the cover does not sag and the box is usefull for all the junk I usually carry around.

You can try to search for "Subaru fast 2" software. It does what you want.

Thanks, I will look in autozone tomorrow if they have 0-30 gauges. Any idea how soon after engine has been stopped it is safe to open the oil line to swap the gauge?

The sender is new, and the oil hole is very small, like a pin whole (no idea if its good or bad). No idea who made it Scale goes from zero to 110psi with 2psi tick marks and covers about 270 degrees. Oil pressure light comes on on 2.7psi, so its not too useful as a diagnostic tool. All I really want is to monitor oil pressure relative to its pressure few days ago, so that I do not miss when the oil level dips too low. I'm not that much worried, and my main question is whether a mechanical pressure gauge I can rent at, say, Autozone will be any better in terms of average accuracy around 0-20psi.

Installed electric oil pressure gauge (crappy ebay one). Now it reads 80-90+ psi at start up, goes down to around 40psi when warm and cruising around 2-3k rpms, around 60psi at 5k rpms which all seem ok. But it reads around 5psi at warm idle, and Subaru spec is like 14psi (?). Oil pump was resealed about 10k miles ago, no visible oil leaks from oil pressure sender/sensor units and line, oil (10w30 )was changed about 1.5 month ago and topped off a week ago (leaks a bit), so it is near max today. Milage is 120k. Engine runs as usual, no knocks or lifter noise etc... Should this worry me too much? I will probably rent mechanical oil pressure gauge, but will those be accurate around 0-20psi?

Do it. It will pay off when he hits a pothhole or a curb in the dark. I was able to bottom out my struts, even thought they are pretty stiff.

If its LS than its awd 100%. Oil changes in 3-5k intervals on a car making 7k a year is not a good thing - use that to lower the price And be sure to check the usual spots - torque bind, tired struts, torn CV boots, leaking valve covers, sings of leaks around sunroof. Those might help lower the price even further.

If strut topmounts are original and milage is high - I'd say they are a lot more likely than rack/column.

Bad memory, eh? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72070

Crack your windshield and you're done.

5 instead of 3 actually. Powered ones have another 2-point connector coming out of them, that is not to be mixed up with tweeter connector.