dmanaenk

Once the old clearcoating is off any mild plastic polish will work, with short-lived results.

About zero. 95 did not have heated mirrors

Clearcoat them, or you'll have to repeat the procedure often.

Ebay. Here is a pair for $50 shipped New OEM ones are $40 each.

Strut bushings? $500 for the job on one strut (or control arm)? Never go to that shop again. I think they meant strut tophat (top mount). Its a $30 part, changing it involves renting spring compressor, taking out the strut, changing the top hat and putting the strut back in. Should not take more than 2 hours with hand tools, and probably should be less than 1 hour job with shop tools.

It's here

Judging by 1995 wiring diagram that could be easily located via this forum - TCS in 95 cars uses ABS. I think it was only an option on FWD L trim, which did not sell a lot of cars. I'd just get a rear vLSD.

First tick is 500. Since it runs bad, not only at idle - I'd say its not idle-related issue. Check timing.

Hm, all '99 clusters I have seen look exactly like this one: I don't see any 250 tick.

1. How do you figure its 250? is it between zero and the first mark, which is 500? 2. Did you search? Here's a useful tread: Idle dips to 275?

Biggest safety factor is not the car, but the driver. People tend to self select into different cars, and insurance premium you get for particular car does not tell much about the safety equipment of the car itself. Just compare regular Impreza and WRX rates.

try here

I think there's a scan of install instructions somewhere in picture galleries. Try searching. If you don't find anything - I can take a picture of install instructions that came with my kit.

I'm pretty sure it is twisted, with a lot damage, but the fact that it looks ok means that the body acted like a spring, loading first and unloading after, accelerating you, where as it should have adsorbed the impact energy and and used it to deform the body. I don't think this technique helps you, but it explains why the other guy was able to drive away. When you are on brakes - for a couple of milliseconds friction in your tires holds you in place, with the energy going to deformation of your car, not acceleration.

Being "tough" is not a good thing. The cabin should be tough, everything else should be fairly soft, so as to decrease acceleration rates body organs have to cope with. I am surprised how little damage nipper's car has in the back for 55mph hit. I'm no specialist in safety design, maybe its the fuel tank in the back, that needs to stay undamaged or smth, but from going to junk yards fairly often I'd expect more damage for that description of accident. And yeah, adjust your headrests to proper height.

There are long treads here about what gear oil to run in 5-speed. Make sure you read those. Subaru 5-speed shares lubricant with front diff, so the need for oil is somewhat special. I run Redline 75W90 NS which is not red.

Tested my lead foot yesterday. Went 400miles on cruise control @75-80mph and got 30.5mpg, with 20 being my average around town.

Looks open to me.

The fact that he is selling MT EJ22T wagon is enough to raise suspicion Why would anyone want to sell that?

I think stock 15" clear your brakes, so you can go 195/60/15 or 185/65R15

What year GT are we talking about? The major issue is whether smaller rims clear the brakes or not.

So why exactly are you looking for instructions for H5010FE056? I would expect it to me some fairly recent WRX STI gauge pod, similar to the one I posted a link for. I tought you bought some 1998 wrx sti one. I'll try to hit a couple of guys on russian forums, who might have more info, since a lot of old Japanese cars are making it to Russia

Wouldn't you hear the bearing going bad? I'd say its a sticking caliper. Check if the caliper slides on guiding pins freely.

Here's smth similar

Yeah, I guess you can do that too, but those screws are on the back of the column switch, and hard to get to. I just swapped the whole thing.