dmanaenk

Run Seafoam through the engine top, its almost a waste of money in the tank. Not 100% sure, but I think it might clean EGR valve when done through intake. Run some Chevron Techron, but make sure the one you use is not only injector cleaner, but also cleans sender unit. Might be just a tire out of balance. On FWD I'd just swap front and rear tires, on AWD auto should help as well, but might be not a good option if your rear tires are bad. Get a cargo cover (or use it you already have one) - helps a lot. Or some extra junk spread evenly over cargo

So you are prepared to drill holes in your subaru?

My 96' does 26-27 on a long highway trips @75-80mph In regular driving most of my trips are very short (like 10 minutes) with some occasional 30minute highway runs and my mpg sucks -around 20-21 mpg. I am thinking about getting a new O2 sensor. Old one is fine in terms of output voltages but might be too old to do the job right.

Hm. My $60 lifetime warranty axle just got a torn boot. Lasted only 6k miles. I wonder what it means for your calculations I'm wondering - $100 OEM axles that online subaru parts stores have are remanufactured or new?

Genuine CC kit costed me smth like $50 and it came with almost perfect instructions. Installation, as far as I remember included: install of vacuum pump near AC drier, install of actuator on the firewall and routing vacuum hose from pump. Install of CC cable along the throttle cable. That was it under the hood. Under dash I had to change brake pedal switch, clutch pedal switch, instal control unit, install main switch in the dash, and put CC switch on the steering wheel. Did you install all of that? And before installing electrics from the junkyard car it makes sense to test it somehow.

I'm actually with you on this Pound-force is defined as force exerted by mass of one pound in a place where free-fall gravity acceleration is 32.174 ft/sec^2. So lbf as a unit of force is unchanged, and one can use Torque wrench in lbf-s, if one ever happens to be on Mars

Seems like someone did not make it to A+

Here's A+ question then - convert ft-lb to N-m and back to ft-lb but on Mars

search junkyards here: car-parts.com You can either pick local, or the one with lowest price

My guess is no, since they had smaller brakes as well.

Why exactly do you want twinturbo? From what I have read about it - you'll need custom exhaust at the very least. Do a USDM WRX swap instead.

Show them KBB number (around 5-6 I suppose) and some paperwork confirming that your's is LSi. Should be enough. You don't have to accept any offer you do not like, its a rare car so I think what they are asking you to do(finding close one for sale within 100 miles) is unreasonable. With these insurance companies one has to be really persistent.

Used JDM units pop up on ebay quite often. I do want to give them a try but not bad enough to shell out $100 for possibly noisy accessory (as reported by some people over at nasioc).

Here's one

Which window are we talking about? Rear wagon or front side? Deflectors for the first can be bought online, for the second - used JDMs on ebay, but from what I've heard they are pretty noisy on highways.

I have a question as well, never worked on stuts before. I got some pre-assembled used rear strut/coils and I could not fit one of those (did not get to trying to fit the other) in the strut mounting holes. Seems like topmount is rotated just a little bit compared to the stock strut, so that I can either fit the strut into the body but not the wheel hub, or to the hub, but not to the body (3 studs on top seem to be just rotated 1-2 degrees clockwise) Now a simple question - is it easy to rotate top mount just a bit so that they fit? Can I do it without compressing the spring or should I compress it first? And another question - on the other side I could not remove the brake hose clip. Is there any trick that helps? I tried soaking it in PB etc, it did not help. I was planning to cut the bracket with a bolt cutters (worked well on the other side) but with clip in I could not move brake line away from the cutters far enough to cut the bracket completely. Probably not a big deal though - I would have probably cut the whole bracket off the old strut if I didn't get stuck with the first problem on the other side.

Now do search on Jiffy Lube

Keep up with highlighted and you'll never get to 30.

I thought that 1stsubaru online is no longer shipping from Auburn. Its owned by some other dealer in WA now. Not that it changes shipping location by much, but the pocessing time might be very different from that of the guys in Auburn. I haven't bought anything there since the change of ownership so I don't know.

Few month ago I bought smth like this. Works fine with some free software. Good for monitoring few parameters. No idea about codes, the only one I had so far is knock sensor - this one was the same using this and Autozone's reader.

I don't think mounting holes changed. There are plenty of people with 93-97 Imprezas running WRX brakes on NASIOC. As for your 15" wheels - they may fit or may not fit. I heard that there are some 15 inchers that clear WRX brakes, but those are rare and expensive. Are those stock alloys?

When my gas gauge shows about that and I fill up - around 10 gallons will go in. So its around 27mpg, still not 35 but very good.

Is there a way to check compression without timing belt? If there is, I would do it before investing into all of above. No point in getting all that done only to discover that the first mechanic was right at least partially.

Are you 100% sure its grinding sound? Might be just bad case of shifter rattle. I don't see how a grinding sound from transmission could be affected by touching the shifter lever.

here's what I was talking about. I wonder if its a bolt on. As for Japanese used car market - I think majority of used cars are being bought for almost nothing and shipped to Russia, even though those are RHD