mikeshoup

So I have an 83 FSM here that was falling apart. I was about to debind it, and three hole punch it and throw it in a binder. Then, I found the school had just bought an Automatic Document Feeder for the scanner.... Here's what I've been working on: http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/ The largest problem I've been having, is the scanner only scans one side at a time. I've been using Acrobat Professional, and I get a pdf of the odd pages, and a pdf of the even pages. Its a royal PITA to manually merge the two PDFs. I could do chapter 1 since its so few pages easily. When I'm done with it all, I'll let you know.

You gonna be driving it Sunday?

Grab a MAF adapter for a Nissan 240 or something like that. Should work. Your local ricer auto parts store should carry one.

I see no where on the page that says its the 6x5.5" pattern...

Question: Did it have poor power before the timing belts were changed? If not, what did you do during the timing belt change that could've broken the distributor? Your disy probably needs replacing, but if it ran fine before, its probably not what's causing loss of power. Double check those timing belts. Its very easy to get them off a tooth and not notice.

What weight of oil are you using?

http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm Those guys will rebuild yours for a good price. You also live in Washington, land of Subarus. Pick one out from a junkyard as a temporary replacement, then send your old one in to get rebuilt.

If the timing was bouncing around, then it most likely is the bushings in the distributor. Get it rebuilt, or replace it.

As was said before, all four tires need to be the same circumference. That's tread wear, inflation pressure, sometimes even tread pattern can affect it. Also, it should never be used on dry pavement. Will cause binding and bad things.

If its turbo, 25 splines. Non-Turbo, 23 splines.

Get another manifold from an 85-86. Sounds like you may have gotten a JDM manifold since the brake booster port is on the opposite side? Why are you replacing the manifold anyways?

Try some STP fuel cleaner in the tank. I've heard great things of that helping to clear up stuck floats.

You may want to try a new hardware kit on the rear drums. Only costs about $20 to get all the springs, pins and clips. Its pretty easy to change. Just as easy as changing shoes (since, you pretty much remove the shoes and put them back on). I had a vibration in my pedal from the rear drums, but I also had both leaky wheel cylinders. New shoes, hardware kit, and wheel cylinders did it. Though I doubt in two months your wheel cylinders would started to leak.

Have you tried the swap yourself? I've heard of quite a few stock height EJ swaps into EA81 bodied cars. Its the Gen1 bodied cars that are too narrow. Also, the EJ is narrower than the EA82 because of the lack of a cam carrier. Plus, there have been those who have fit EA82s into EA81 bodied cars. As far as axles, EA81 FWD shafts + Legacy DOJs will give you the required 25 spline DOJ. BTW, the EA82T is 115hp stock, unless its from an 87.5+ XT with spider intake. Those made 130hp-135hp.

Phil: Any idea what happened with Noss's wagon? Has the new owner had any bad luck with it yet? Personally, I think high compression Turbo motors are evil.

The white mark should go across the screw, and what it screws into. Should be lined up if no one messed with it (If I remember correctly...) I had troubles after troubles getting my spfi wagon to idle correctly. It always idled at 600 and kinda rough. If you're happy with the idle, you might just wanna say screw it.

Should be lower. Adjust that idle screw in, however I think there's really only about 200rpm range of adjustment there. Someone may have messed with the stop screw for the throttle plate. Check to see if its still got the factory white mark on it, and that it hasn't moved. Both of those are on that throttle body thingy. That hose that had the frayed thing in it, follow it back to a little canister. That's hooked up to the throttle body. Examine it, then the picture I have. Only difference, is mine is missing the idle solenoid (that canister thingy).

Did you check the conenctor as was said above? Could be that a couple wires melted and shorted together. A lot of current runs through those wires...

It should be fine. Its just finicky when I first start to drive it. I have to shift it into first on its own. After a little bit, it warms up and shifts nicely...

Rick should just get an EJ.

Yup, supposed to be unplugged. The Green plugs when connected turn on the diagnostic check on the ECU, the white plugs will pull up stored codes. The other connectors are diagnostic connectors.

Stupid me, that's this sunday. Here I was thinking, Feb 17th/18th already passed.... Still no reason I can't make it. The 3AT is giving me pains, but it should still be fine.

Great story! The rear driveshaft will spin, regardless of whether or not its engaged in 4WD. Its just not engaged to the driving gear, so its free to go at whatever speed it wants, and doesn't have any power running to it.

Adjust the idle screw on the throttle body. Right is lower, left is higher.

This is actually what I did. It took some strong vice grips, and PB Blaster, but it broke loose. Once it broke loose, there's enough of the nut to get my pipe wrench around it. For now, I just coated it in anti-sieze and got it on there as tight as I could without further rounding the nut. Doesn't leak, so I hope I'm good... for now. Daeron: Cutting the rubber line wasn't viable, the line going to the drum is metal.