mikeshoup

Which is why we should go by the JDM name, Leone

My EA81 Turbo Wagon's tach is sticking when cold. I'll start the car, and the tach will read 0, and the engine is obviously running. I'll start driving the car, and it'll bounce up to 2k and stay there. Sometimes it goes back to 0. If I drive it for about 20 minutes, it unsticks itself and starts operating normally. On warmer days, it didn't do this. Is this a common problem? Is there a way I can remedy this? If I need to replace the tach, is the unit itself replaceable without having to replace the whole dash? Thanks!

Correct, non-interference. If the timing belt slipped, there will be low compression on the bank that slipped.

Ding! That's how I'd do it.

That video makes me wanna rally cross!

As far as MS, as long as its the crank wheel with the 6 teeth, there's a decoder for MS if you use MS1 w/ MS Extra. You'd need to add an extra circuit for a second VR input as it also uses the cam sensor output to decode it. The resellers of MS should be able to build that extra sensor into your board. Then its just all software. Anyways, I would just go with a stock ECU for now. Too much mucking around to get MS to work on an EJ.

On my 88 Wagon, the rear wheels liked to stick to the rear drums. I just grabbed my sledge, and gave the back side a good whack. Came right off.

If you place a fuse in that holder, it will put the transmission into FWD mode only. There should be info in the owner's manual if you have it. Only use the FWD fuse if you have to. It will not provide any increase in gas mileage like one might suspect.

Someone should really have a post of acronyms we use. SPFI = Single Point Fuel Injection So SPFI is another way of saying TBI. (C'mon, sequential injection? They weren't advanced enough in the 80s for that )

TBI == SPFI They're one in the same.

Everyone's opinions are going to be different on this. Personally, I would look for an 88+ Wagon. That way you can get SPFI and not have to deal with carbs. If carbs are your thing any 1980-1987 will work. 1990+ will not have the Dual Range transmission as an option. If you want Dual Range, ideal would be 88-89. Though the single range pushbutton 4WD tranny is just as strong as the dual range. I had an 88 GL SPFI D/R wagon. It was a great runner for the snow and gravel. GoldDiggerRoo may have had bad luck with the EA82 generation (85-94) but as long as the one you get was kept well, they're as strong as the EA81s (80-84). I never had any bad problems with my non-Turbo one, and my brother's 89 is running strong at 240K+. You get a little more power from them as they're OHC. Downside, is you have timing belts to replace every 60,000 miles. Lucky you though, if timing belts break its a non-interference motor. No engine damage, you'll just be left walking home.

Dealer only for the t-stats. Others report great success with Stand Superstat, but if the dealer is near by, just spend the $10 for a t-stat.

Sounds maybe like the thermostat is stuck? Did you check that out? Usually if the radiator is clogged, you'll get bands of hot and cold across it, but the hoses get hot.

Tell him to put snow tires on, then redo the race. I wonder if the Loyale could still hold up.

Head gasket symptoms: Burning coolant (could also be intake mani gaskets though) Mix of coolant and oil in either the oil pan or radiator Bubbling coming out of the reserve. Poor/rough idle.

Difference is 6.3%. When the speedo reads 70mph, I should be going around 75mph. The difference is also about 500rpm to maintain the same speed. Should save a little gas I hope.

Not that this has anything to do with EA82Ts, but: GM used to own somewhere around 14% of FHI. Thus, the Saabaru was born (that Saab 9-2X that looks oddly like a WRX...). GM sold its stakes in Subaru, and Toyota bought much of it. That's why Toyota now builds cars in Subaru's Indiana plant. Also Subaru gets hybrid technology or something like that.

I just bought 4 Cooper Dominator All-Seasons P185/80/R13 today. They certainly fill the wheel well. They look huge compared to the dinky 175/70/13s that were on there before. I noticed that my speedo was reading lower to keep up with traffic than before. We'll see how they work in the long run.

LUVMYBRAT's BRAT isn't a Turbo though is it? I would think my Turbo would have the power to keep up to speed. I could see it getting a little tough in the mountains though.

The long blocks are virtually identical. Should just have swap on your intake mani, disty, exhaust mani, and all the accessories. While the long block is out of the car though, you may want to reseal it so it doesn't leak oil. At least the oil pan and the rear main seal as those are a royal PITA to do with the engine in the car. Canada got 88 Carbs? In the US, all 88 EA82s were SPFI (SPFI long block will swap into a carb too).

+1 on throwing the D/R trans into your forester. Its been done before. Would need an adapter plate, change the length of the driveshaft, and do custom axles, then figure out the interior bits. Overall, wouldn't be too terribly difficult I think.

Neat-O. What carb you gonna use? Whatcha gonna do about spark?

How's this work? EA MPFIs don't have a MAP sensor. I'm pretty sure though EA 4EATs need a TPS signal to go into "power" mode when the pedal is pushed rapidly.

Now put a 1.5 low range in the RX box, then it would be worth it

On the EAs, the ECU doesn't communicate any extra with the TCU. The only extra pins on the ECU for the 4EAT is the inhibitor switch (which 3ATs have too). This *may* be different with the EJs, but as long as he's using the EA 4EAT with the EA's TCU, I don't see this being a problem. I'm actually a bit curious as to how this turns out. There are those people who prefer automatics, and if you have an EA with a 4EAT, I see no reason to do a tranny swap unless you prefer a 5spd.